From the airport to the city centre Colombia
El Dorado International Airport is the country's main airport and a major hub in Latin America. From here, you can fly anywhere in the country, to the major cities, but also to more remote and isolated destinations, in the Llanos or the Amazon, for example. Terminal 1 operates international and most regional routes. Terminal 2, also known as Puente Aéreo, serves only Easyfly and Satena flights. A free shuttle bus takes you 15 minutes between the two terminals.
El Dorado airport is located in the west of Bogotá, 15 km from the city center. Cabs are the easiest, safest and quickest way to get to your hotel if you're new to the city. Fares are reasonable, around $35,000. Take yellow cabs (queue like everyone else, and pay no attention to the unofficial cab touts). White VIP cabs are much more expensive. It's also possible to take an Uber or other local VTC, but be discreet, as this mode of transport is still not officially legal in Colombia.
For resourceful travelers wishing to save a little, it is possible to take a Transmilenio bus (line 86) from Terminal 1 (gate 8), from 4.30 a.m. to 10 p.m. (5 a.m.-9 p.m. on weekends). To do this, you need to buy a rechargeable Tullave card at the airport ($6,000, plus a recharge of at least the fare, $2,650). This card can be used for one or more people. To be avoided during rush hour, if you're loaded, and late at night, for security reasons.
Arrival by train Colombia
Since the 1940s, Colombians have forgotten what a locomotive was. Passenger transport by rail is almost non-existent today. Apart from the tourist train between Bogotá and Zipaquirá, the few railroads still in operation, in La Guajira or between Cali and Buenaventura, are used to transport coal or other goods. However, the remains of railway stations in Medellín, Cali and Armenia remind us that the country once had a network worthy of the name. In 1993, the Mano Negra's "convoy of acrobats", accompanied by a merry band of circus performers, revived for a time the 1,000 km of disused track between Bogotá and Santa Marta, providing a little diversion for the inhabitants of villages caught between guerrillas and paramilitaries. It was aboard the Expreso del Hielo (the Ice Express), so named because it used to bring wagons of ice to the furnace of Aracataca, Gabriel García Márquez's native village. This adventure is recounted in the book Un train de glace et de feu, by Ramón Chao.
Arrival by boat Colombia
As long-distance travellers will have understood, the passage from Panama to Colombia (or vice versa) is tricky in the absence of a road. There's no question of trying to cross the Darién on foot, a long, expensive and dangerous journey. Safer and more pleasant options are available by sailboat from/to Cartagena (2 days in the middle of the San Blas and 3 days on the open sea). This costs around US$600 per person. Find out about the yacht and its captain before embarking with anyone else. You can also sail along the coast in a fast lancha, with specialized agencies. Allow 4 days/3 nights, with scheduled departures, along the coast through the San Blas. Cheaper than sailing boats. There are also lanchas from Bahía Solano along the Pacific coast. This is a rather perilous route, as it follows one of the main drug routes, so it's not recommended... Boats are still the main means of getting around, whether on the coast, between islands or in the Amazon. From dugout canoes carved out of trees to powerful twin-engined 40-passenger craft, the range is vast. The landing stage is called a muelle. Schedules, when they exist, are rarely respected. In many cases, departure only takes place once maximum capacity has been reached.
Public transport Colombia
Buses. Colombia is home to a myriad of folkloric means of transport. Buses " are generally the ones we know as such, the larger, more comfortable buses (everything is relative) that serve major destinations. Busetas " are smaller buses that run around town or serve neighboring communities. Chivas " are old, colorful wooden buses with overpowering, puncture-proof engines that run between villages. Colectivos " take many forms, from shared car-taxis to air-conditioned vans, old Jeeps and battered minibuses. They leave when they're full, with no real timetable.
All these means of transport are economical, less polluting than air travel, and provide access to places off the beaten track. Taking these modes of transport also makes it easier to meet the locals, leaving you time to observe the scenery and daydream. Bus stations in major cities (Terminal de Transporte) are equipped with all the services a traveler needs: cafeterias, pharmacies, toilets, ATMs, and sometimes luggage lockers, Wi-Fi and tourist information points. In villages, the main park often acts as a mini-terminal. It's important to choose the right company, especially for long-distance travel. Paying an extra $20,000 (equivalent to 5 euros) often guarantees a more reliable and comfortable vehicle (toilets, Wifi, more breaks for the driver...). Be sure to check whether the bus is direct(directo) or not(regular), as journey times can almost double! The state of the roads and the country's rugged geography do not make journeys easy. Journeys can be interminable when you have to cross mountain ranges. Don't rely on mileage, but on journey times. And when you ask the bus company how long the journey will take, be aware that the times given are often very optimistic, and that unforeseen circumstances abound on South American roads...
Bus station websites are rarely up to date. It's best to visit - www.horariodebuses.com.co - which gives timetables, journey times and company contacts. You can also visit the websites of platforms such as Redbus, Busbud, Pinbus and FelizViaje, which charge a commission on the ticket price.
Metro. Bogotá has been waiting decades for a metro, while Medellín has had one since 1995. The network comprises two conventional metro lines linked to several cable car lines(Metrocables).
Transmilenio. Transmicaribe, Mio, Metrolínea, etc. Long articulated bus networks with dedicated lanes. Handy for crossing congested cities, but often saturated at rush hour. Payment is by rechargeable magnetic card, which is also used for the buses and cable cars integrated into these networks.
Bike, scooters & co Colombia
Everyday travel is often by bicycle, even when crossing large cities. Bicycle paths are plentiful, especially in Bogotá, which has the largest network of bicycle paths in Latin America, a network that is growing daily. Private bike-sharing companies and electric scooters(patinetas eléctricas) arrived in force a few years ago, but the Covid-19 pandemic has unfortunately put a stop to their development. However, Bogotá should have a public bike-sharing system by 2022 (it was being tested at the time of our survey) and it is still possible to rent bikes in some cities, in youth hostels or in specialized agencies. Beware, however, of sidewalks and roads in poor condition (gaping holes) and of the most anarchic traffic.
With a driver Colombia
Cabs are plentiful and economical. An average journey in town costs the equivalent of 2 or 3 euros. Payment in cash only. They are yellow (or white for VIP services) and most have a taximeter. Tip: in Bogotá in particular, to avoid unnecessarily offending the driver, avoid slamming the doors, whatever the condition of the vehicle! Cabs can be hired by the hour or for short trips out of town. Having a trusted cab recommended to you, having it called by your hotel, or using an application like Easy Tappsi is a significant guarantee, in terms of safety and fares.
Uber and other applications of this type (Didi, Beat, etc.) are widely used, for reasons of cost and security. Even if everyone uses them, they remain illegal in Colombia. That's why drivers prefer you to sit next to them (and not in the back as in cabs), to avoid arousing the suspicions of the police, especially when approaching airports. For this reason, it's possible to be dropped off at airports in an Uber, making it easier to be picked up. VTCs are also mainly paid for in cash.
As well as cabs and VTCs, which are widely used in the city, in rural areas you can often be picked up by motorcycle cab (usually without a helmet) or tuk tuk, three-wheeled folkloric vehicles with motorcycle handlebars and 2 or 3 seats in the back.
By car Colombia
Renting a car offers a great deal of freedom. Be aware, however, that the country is large and distances are deceptive, due to the relief (three cordilleras), the state of the roads (ravaged by bad weather), or by heavy trucks travelling at 10 km/h on hills. While the speed limit is generally 80 km/h outside built-up areas (30 or 60 km/h in town), the average speed rarely exceeds 30-40 km/h on long journeys Car rental is on the increase, but rates remain high compared with other countries. Fuel is cheaper than in France, but not cheap, and there are also a lot of tolls!
Hire. Unless you're used to road-tripping in far-flung countries, we recommend renting a car only to visit certain regions, such as the coffee region (Eje Cafetero), Boyacá and Santander, as the roads are good and traffic is not too heavy. Take a bus or plane to Armenia, Pereira or Bucaramanga and rent a car there. It's advisable to drive early in the day, as the roads are little or not illuminated at night, and in the event of a problem, you'll have time to turn around. A high-sided SUV makes driving easier, given the number of potholes.
Driving. There are few road signs, and using an app like Waze or Maps.Me (which works offline, so download the maps in advance) is very useful. As in the rest of Latin America, driving is sporty and the Highway Code is not always respected. Be careful at intersections at night: many people run stop signs and red lights to avoid being attacked! It's also very common to overtake on the right, so don't be offended. In the event of an accident, leave your car where it is, even if it's blocking traffic, call your insurance company and wait for the police to report the accident. Zero tolerance for drinking and driving (0.0 g/l.).
Pico y placa. If you're renting a car, you'll need to make sure you're aware of any traffic restrictions during pico y placa hours. This system of alternating traffic, introduced in Bogotá in 1998 and subsequently in most major Colombian cities, is designed to relieve traffic congestion during the busiest hours(horas pico). License plates ending in an even number (0, 2, 4, 6, 8) may not be driven on even-numbered days, at certain times (generally from 6 to 9 a.m. and from 4 to 7.30 p.m., depending on the city, the type of vehicle and the time of year). And vice versa on odd-numbered days. At weekends, the pico y placa does not operate, so everyone can drive without restriction. Electric and hybrid cars, and those who have paid a substantial sum on the "polluter pays" principle ("pico y placa solidario"), are exempt from pico y placa.
Parking. Don't leave your car on the street, especially in big cities, park it in a paid parking lot, and even then don't leave valuables in it. Once again, this is the No dar papaya talking!
Accessibility Colombia
With the exception of airports and recent bus stations, accessibility for people with reduced mobility is not yet a priority. Sidewalks are often potholed or cluttered, making it difficult to use them with a wheelchair or baby carriage. On the other hand, Colombians are usually friendly, especially to foreigners. They'll take their time and bend over backwards to make things easier for you.
Tourist traps Colombia
There aren't many transport scams in Colombia. Only cab drivers can take you out of their way to run the taximeter, but that's not very common. Crime is more of a problem. You may hear of the " paseo millonario ", the "millionaire's trick" (yes, you are a millionaire, in Colombian pesos): this is an errand in which the cab driver, aided by an accomplice, takes you around the ATMs in record time. This is why you should never get into a cab that is already carrying someone. Whenever possible, have the driver call you - especially at night, when the extra charge is derisory - or use a VTC such as Uber, which is reputed to be safer.
