BASILICA DI SAN CLEMENTE

San Clemente is one of the most representative monuments of early Christian and medieval Rome. The complex comprises three levels, giving an idea of how the ground level has risen over the course of history.

The lower level is that of a dwelling dating back to Republican times, where in the 3rd^century a temple to Mithras was established, later replaced by a Christian cult, probably clandestine. In the 4th^century , a basilica dedicated to Pope Clement (88-97 AD), the fourth successor of St. Peter, was built on this site. Ravaged like all the surrounding area by Robert Guiscard's Normans in 1084, it was rebuilt in the 12th^century , the ruins providing its foundations. In the ^15th century, Masolino Da Panicale added fresco decoration to the chapel of Saint Catherine. In the ^18th century, Carlo Fontana added a rather unfortunate decoration, but one that can be easily avoided, so impressive are the marvels of the preceding centuries. As with most basilicas, the entrance was via an atrium, which survives but is no longer used. The upper church is a basilica with three naves, separated by ancient columns. It retains all the classical features of ancient basilicas: the schola cantorum, the presbytery behind the triumphal arch and the apse with the bishop's seat.

The paving and decoration of the marble furnishings are the work of the Cosmates. But the mosaics of the triumphal arch and apse dominate the scene. They date from the 12th^century . Those on the triumphal arch are still classically Byzantine, while those on the apse have something of the freedom of Roman mosaics in their vegetation and fauna. The Paschal Lamb is surrounded by twelve lambs representing the twelve apostles; on either side, you'll notice Jerusalem and Bethlehem, the Old and New Testaments.

Chapel of St. Catherine of Alexandria. Before leaving the upper church, visit the chapel of St. Catherine of Alexandria. Its frescoes are the work of Masolino Da Panicale, Masaccio's master and companion. They date from 1429. The lower church, only discovered around 1860, was slightly larger than the present basilica. Important remains of frescoes from the Carolingian period are well preserved. In the central nave, the Wedding at Cana and a Crucifixion. In the right-hand nave, a Madonna. In what was the narthex, the Miracle of St. Clement and the Legend of St. Alexis are more recent (^12th century).