Between nature and heritage, the Opal Coast has some treasures that are still too little known, from the Grand Site de France des Deux-Caps to the Entente Cordiale Cultural Centre in Hardelot Castle.
Balanced between sea and countryside, the jagged coastline faces the coasts of the neighbouring island of England. Moreover, their proximity amazes as much as it surprises. You are welcome to stroll through this authentic territory, whether by car, on foot, by bike or on horseback, or on the hiking trails. From fine sand to cliffs, from fishing villages to trendy seaside resorts, diversity is part of the originality.
Here the sea, which from the North becomes the English Channel, is there, both constant and always different. The lights, colours and skies it reflects make photographers happy. If the wind gets involved, kite-surfers and windsurfers tame the waves, not without daring. In Sangatte, it is a long carpet of sand as soft as fine that stretches with the tides. Then two capes are erected, majestic
The sea in the countryside
These spaces combine a country spirit with the sea. On the land side, valleys and heights make the poetry of the landscape. And on reaching the top of one of these geological caprices, the panorama surprises by its beauty. The palette of shades and shades of green are the work of the men who shape the reliefs. Mount Hubert dominates the sea, throwing itself into the water from the top of the chalky cliffs of the Cap Blanc-Nez. If the spirit of nature is the essence of places, the history of mankind is told in the depths of the stigmata left by the two world wars. The obelisk of the Dover Patrol rises to watch over the memory of the place, recalling the sacrifice of men on both sides of the Channel.
The English coasts as neighbours
About ten kilometres away, the other cape, the Gris-Nez, is no less remarkable. The closest French point to England, it offers a breathtaking view. Both take their name from the colour of the soil they are made of: luminous chalk for one, clay and marl for the other. No matter how well signposted the paths that run through these remarkable sites are, they offer a view as close as possible to nature and allow it to regain its rights. The sheep are the guardians of the site from spring to fall
Even though man is a craftsman of the landscape, this was done with the concern to preserve nature as well as possible. If an artificial lake was born, at the Fond Pignon, when the Channel Tunnel was dug, this area is now protected. He sees a fauna and flora that had hitherto disappeared blossom. Between the two capes, the bay of Wissant and the village of the same name
As with their neighbours of Audresselles and Ambleteuse, the fishermen who founded this village have left the imprint of a certain sweetness of life. Both Wimereux and Hardelot, south of Boulogne, had a different destiny. These two seaside resorts experienced a tremendous boom at the end of the 19th century. Highly prized by the great industrial families of the Lille metropolis but also by the large English community present on the Opal Coast at the time, both have established themselves as privileged destinations, enhanced by villas with architecture typical of the beginning of the 20th century.
To find these treasures, the Maison du Site des Deux-Caps is the resource place par excellence. Hiking trails, classic and electrically-assisted bike hire, here the department and its partners contribute to preserving these landscapes while keeping them alive. After passing Boulogne-sur-Mer, the National Nausicaá Sea Centre and the largest crypt in France that its cathedral jealously conceals, the other discovery not to be missed is the Château d'Hardelot
It emerges from the heart of the forest and the surrounding nature reserve. In this green setting, just a stone's throw from the sea, the ramparts protect a slightly fanciful manor house. Its history dates back to the Middle Ages. After having been a wooden fort, Philippe Hurepel, then Count of Boulogne, turned it into a fortified castle on the model of the one in Boulogne-sur-Mer. It is thought that the English King Henry VIII came there himself. What is certain is that the Château d'Hardelot was the scene of important negotiations between France and England, while Boulogne was under siege by the English. The time of the religious wars was fatal to it since it was then dismantled. It became a farmhouse until the 19th century.
Then an Englishman, John Hare, bought the ruin. He was a history buff, so he carried out archaeological excavations and rebuilt a tower. Then the castle was bought by a second Englishman, Captain Henry Guy, who built the manor as it stands today. In the neighborhood, a certain Charles Dickens regularly stayed in the same village... Finally, in 1898, the castle became the property of John Whitley. This ambitious businessman was also the founder of the seaside resort of Hardelot. Moreover, the castle was not a holiday resort, but the heart of the mundane life of the city. The rich English, who were numerous at the time on the Opal Coast, but also a French bourgeoisie, met there. We used to party there, we used to hit the first shot on the golf course, hardly modified today. The last private owner of the castle was no less interesting. This is Father Bouly, priest of Hardelot and father of dowsing. He bought the castle to make it a rest home.
A castle, a theatre, exhibitions
Today, the Château d'Hardelot belongs to the commune of Condette. But having suffered from the ravages of time, it was restored in the early 2000s by the Pas-de-Calais department, which turned it into the Entente Cordiale Cultural Centre. The manor house, which has recovered a Victorian interior, seduces visitors. It tells the history of the place of course. But not only that. Here each element of the décor tells the story of Franco-British history in a filigree way. The dining room chairs were purchased by Napoleon III during a trip to London. The bust of President Emile Loubet and the portrait of the English King Edward VII evoke the signing of the Entente Cordiale treaty, which brought the two countries closer together diplomatically. And so it is in each of the nine rooms... At the entrance to the site, there is also a unique construction: an Elizabethan theatre. The Centre Culturel de l'Entente Cordiale, offering a programme with a Franco-British accent, of course, has a performance venue. And naturally, inspiration comes from across the Channel. It is the work of architect Andrew Todd. It is the only Elizabethan theatre in France. Naturally, in June, it will host the Midsummer Festival, a highlight of the artistic life of the place. Art will also express itself through temporary exhibitions. Welcome!
Smart info
When? All year round. The good days are naturally more pleasant. But the vagaries of the weather offer breathtaking scenery
Getting there. The Opal Coast is located 230 km north of Paris. The Entente Cordiale Cultural Centre is located in the commune of Condette, 5 minutes from Hardelot. The Deux-Caps are located between Boulogne-sur-Mer and Calais. By train, stop at Calais, Calais-Fréthun or Boulogne-sur-Mer.
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