A sanctuary for stone age seal fishermen, a Scandinavian colony since the 7th century, this archipelago of 6,700 islands floating in the Gulf of Bothnia, between Stockholm and Turku (Finland), shares its history with Sweden and then Russia. In 1861, Tsar Alexander II founded the city of Mariehamn, which became the capital of the Finnish autonomous province in 1917. However, the fragile orchids and spruce forests as well as the diaphanous light bathing the lascivious shores of this corner of the Baltic Sea seem indifferent to these random contingents. Åland is a maze of land and water from which emanates a scent of eternity. From naval epics in contemplative canoeing or fishing sessions, between Nordic gastronomic heritage and family outdoor activities, the enigmatic Finnish archipelago with its red granite soil calls for an escape.
The city of a thousand lime trees
It is with Mariehamn and its 11,000 inhabitants (a third of the population) that the 1.5 million annual visitors get to know each other. After a short flight or a dream ferry ride from Stockholm, Kapellskär and Grisslehamn on the Swedish side and Helsinki and Turku on the Finnish side, the city spreads its green alleys lined with wooden houses and contemporary bars. The lively summer terraces invite you to stroll around. The placid and relaxing marine atmosphere is evident in the maritime district of Sjökvarteret. A string of traditional autumn red buildings - housing workshops, sailors' chapels, pubs and craft shops - serves as the setting for the shipyard: schooners and wooden boats are moored there, waiting to be pampered. While the Åland Museum of Fine Arts and History explores the cultural legacies of the territory by emphasising the specific identity of the archipelago, the Maritime Museum, which has an astonishing collection of miniature boats, explores the maritime angle of this same chronicle, covering a period from 18th century piracy to today's merchant ships. Stowed just in front, the metallic four-masted Pommern, the only survivor of the 1903 type, offers an amazing experience called 100 days of sailing. Play of light and soundtracks based on authentic testimonies engage the sailors passing through in the daily life of a 1930s crew heading for Australia, via London and Cape Horn. And to hear the cook squeal, fearing that the potatoes will spoil by the time they arrive in the Pacific!
After a happy swim, you can enjoy a thick cardamom crepe and whipped cream on Gröna Udden or Lilla Holmen beach, flanked by a buccaneer's ship open for a visit. The site also hosts a bird house, a perfect introduction to the archipelago's birdlife: the lord is here the white-tailed eagle, also known as the great sea eagle.
6,700 islands
Let the wind blow into our sails: head for Silverskär Island for a night or two, to try your hand at sport fishing, fishing for pike, pike-perch, whitefish or sea trout, before visiting one of the lighthouse islands, these uninhabited flagship islands, or enjoying champagne and dinner on other islands. Kökar and its 250 inhabitants, 2h30 by ferry from the city, is another oasis of peace and quiet. In the shade of a Franciscan monastery, time freezes between the moon and lagoons.
On the kitchen side, Åland is not short of resources. In addition to the excellent tables of the Nordic tradition revisited - fresh fish and smoked meat with herbs -, local production is rich: traditional Stallhagen or Open Water beers, homemade pralines and lemonades from Amalias, cheeses from the Mattas Gård farm... In this respect, when visiting the medieval castle of Kastelholm, once the resort of King Gustav Vasa, the restaurant Smakbyn is worth a visit: local brandies are not to be missed!
After a round of golf on the nearby 18-hole golf course, we will drive to the ruins of the Bomarsund fortress. Although only a few of the granite walls erected by the tsars and destroyed in 1854 by a Franco-British fleet during the Crimean War remain, the place remains bewitching. Will you be able to flush out the cannons? In the countryside, near Finström, there is the Sankt Mikaels church, built between the 12th and 15th centuries, which houses a superb collection of woodcarvings
Traffic in the archipelago is fluid and easy, allowing multiple combinations of walks. The flat terrain and numerous bridges make it easy to walk or cycle, while the ancient Viking waterways are ideal for kayaking, jet skiing or sailing. All that remains is to elect a dwelling facing the lagoon. The magic of Åland takes care of the rest
Smart info
When? When? Unlike mainland Finland or Sweden, Åland, due to its island location, enjoys a moderate climate. The waters of the Baltic Sea warm the cold winter winds and temper the warm summer gusts from the southeast. Despite this, temperatures remain below 0°C from December to March - covering the landscapes with a white coat - and stabilize around 20°C from June to August, the ideal time to visit the archipelago.
Getting there. Via Stockholm and Turku
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Duration. A long weekend is the perfect time to discover the Åland archipelago. However, a full week or even 10 days will allow you to enjoy your stay in complete peace of mind and explore the most remote islets of the Gulf.
Public. Lovers of wide open spaces and pristine nature, lovers of the sea and fishing, adventurous gourmets, families and friends looking for a change of scenery and long walks... you are welcome!
The pluses. A region unknown to the general public.
A sumptuous and soothing natural environment.
Countless outdoor activities.
An exceptional fauna.
The less. The language barrier. However, the majority of the people of Ireland speak very good English.
Useful. To best prepare your escapade on the Baltic Sea
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