Madagascar, the "Great Island" of the Indian Ocean, "sanctuary of nature", "island-continent", "unknown paradise", "cultural crossroads"... Tourist brochures praise this land lost off the coast of Africa, and yet so close, sometimes, to Asia. But Tanindrazana, the "land of ancestors", is not reduced to these shimmering stereotypes. How can we describe the fascinating interplay of colours, these shades of purple, vermilion, cobalt, ebony, opal, emerald and jade, so many living watercolours that delight the eye? If there are many options to discover the Big Island, you can imagine a trip to the south, first to the superb Isalo National Park, before finally reaching Tulear and then the wild beaches of Ifaty.
An exceptional and popular national park
This superb national park (81,540 ha), the most visited in the country, extends west of Ranohira, in the Ihorombe region. You could easily spend two or three days there to immerse yourself in this exceptional nature. Thus, we will be able to admire at leisure the rising sun and the formidable fires of the twilight on an almost lunar landscape... The Isalo offers a series of canyon sequences, sandstone peaks that range from red to pink, caves, granite masses sculpted by winds and waters. Elsewhere, they are plateaus carved out of craters, deserts of stone and silence, steep escarpments... In this landscape where everything seems mysterious, the wind blowing between the limestone massifs is full of meaning; perhaps it is the whisper of an ancestor... Indeed, the rocks of Isalo shelter burials, both Bara and Sakalava (who lived there before being driven out, the guides will perhaps be able to explain) making it a sacred land. Many places are fady and must be respected: for example, do not point to anything by pointing at them. Seven species of lemurs are recorded in the park, including 4 nocturnal and 3 diurnal. During your walk, you will probably see the catas, sifakas, and brown lemurs... not very shy. You will also find 86 species of birds (including the Malagasy drongo, the Benson rockbird - Pseudocosyphus bensoni, a protected endemic species, or the crow) in the exceptional calm of this place, as well as reptiles of all kinds (harmless), from the impressive lizard to snakes (boa in particular) and frogs, including the endemic Boophis albilabris occidentalis (it can be observed near the waterfall of the Nymphs). The flora includes about 1,200 species and includes aloe vera, thorns, rare palm trees such as the fire-resistant satrana (Bismarkia nobilis) and a spectacular climbing plant called "the elephant's foot" (Pachypodium rosulatum). It should be noted that 80% of the original forest was decimated by fire in 2011; a few rare species have survived by adapting (xerophilic species), such as Tapia or Heza (whose green wood is commonly used as firewood: it is perfectly combustible, like dead wood). The sabotse, an endemic plant, is said to have given its name to the massif. Your local guide will take you along the entire route and should make your visit exciting. Zozoly has been particularly remarkable and speaks to us with passion.
To spend a few days in the Isalo, here are two dream addresses.At the gates of the park, near Rahonira, Le Relais de la Reine is a charming hotel in an oasis of greenery (40 ha), planted in the heart of a superb site. A top-of-the-range address, with swimming pool, tennis court, equestrian centre, airfield, transfers to the sites, via ferrata, car rental, high quality spa run by Brigitte Rocfort... The complex even boasts hives, an orchard and an organic vegetable garden that we will enjoy visiting. The rooms (stone bungalows, an originality constantly copied since the opening of the hotel) are vast, and of an exquisite taste. In short, the great class! Hiking trails have also been developed, offering spectacular views of the Isalo, so plan to stay at least two nights to fully enjoy the place. Le Jardin du Roy, another establishment run by the same owners, shares some activities with Le Relais de la Reine.Also perfectly integrated into the environment, with its hand-cut granite stones, its use of rosewood, marble and labradorite, these are still top-of-the-range services. The 5 rooms surround a large well-kept green space and an equestrian club offers superb rides from one hour to half a day. There is also a restaurant and a superb sunny swimming pool. Finally, small budgets will be able to choose the "Rênes de l'Isalo" bungalows located between the two establishments. Paradise at a low price.
Tulear, final point of the RN7 and starting point of the beach road
After visiting the park, we will take the Tulear road, 12 km north of the Tropic of Capricorn. A strategic crossroads in western Madagascar, Tuléar is also the final point of the wonderful descent of the RN 7 and offers a touch of refreshing blue after the red and arid land. An indolent atmosphere reigns in these sun-drenched streets, and the whole city seems to be resting waiting for nightfall to fully enjoy the wild nightlife.
Considerable efforts have been made to revitalize the region: a waterfront under renovation, expanding cultural sites and activities, a varied sports offer, notable cleanliness and beautiful paved roads to Ifaty. Because the city's asset remains above all its proximity to the wild beaches of the Mozambique Channel (Anakao, Salary, Ifaty...) to which everyone goes at the weekend.
Lazing around in Ifaty Bay
Ifaty Bay is for many travellers synonymous with idleness, beautiful beaches lined with coconut trees... but also a seaside resort of a certain size. This vision must soon be tempered (a lesser evil in this region where the sun crushes the most hardened): we are indeed far from the Grande Motte! The main "tourist centre" of Mangily village (when we talk about Ifaty, we are actually talking about Mangily village!) is simply a few establishments where bungalows are king. For amateurs, Mangily is a known and recognizedsite for diving. Unfortunately, the Massif des Roses has lost some of its beauty. It must be said that the tourist development of the Ifaty seaside area in recent decades has contributed to its deterioration. Several non-governmental organizations, such as the NGO Bel Avenir and Reef Doctor, are actively working to preserve it. Fortunately, since 2007, the site has been officially protected. The children who play on the beach and the fishing villages also guarantee you beautiful moments in contact with the locals. See the flyover of the coast with our little drone.
Smart info
When? When? All year round, but the hurricane season is from January to March. August and October are the most popular months. April/May and November are very good choices.
Getting there. Flights almost daily. The average price of a return flight from Paris to Antananarivo varies between 700 € (low season with one or two stops) and 1 500 € (direct in high season) Air Madagascar is really pleasant and Tsaradia its new subsidiary allows to make domestic flights. If Air Madagascar's reputation on its domestic flights was not very good, this renewal has made it possible to regain a very good level of quality
Organize on site. The Malagasy tours agency is a local agency that knows how to combine an impeccable organization for its stay while offering an intense and intimate approach outside the beaten track. A beautiful discovery that we recommend. See also the video of Yvon, their guide who talks to us about his passion for the Capricorn Coast
