In the heart of the hinterland of the Province of Barcelona, the county of Osona stretches at the edge of the first mountain ranges of the Catalan mountain range while it is crowned, to the north, by the pre-Pyrenean hills. At an altitude of 450 metres, the Vic plain, surrounded by green mountains, is the nerve centre and geographical centre of Osona, a unique territory with a unique Catalan identity where nature, enamelled with heritage, conveys the history and legends of the past. From agricultural plains to high limestone plateaus, from oak groves to the banks of the Ter river that winds its way from the Pyrenees to the Mediterranean Sea, the county offers us a mosaic of contrasting panoramas. Filled with ancestral traditions, it is to the rhythm of fairs and colourful markets that take place all year round that the region comes alive. It is also the heir to a high-flying gastronomic heritage with a well-established reputation. Strolling through the narrow streets of picturesque stone villages, flying over the region in a hot-air balloon, sliding on the waters of the Sau dam, participating in a delicatessen workshop, exploring the historic route of Camí Oliba, escaping into the pastoral landscapes of Lluçanès, walking through the sumptuous landscapes of Montseny or the plateaux of Collsacabra are all opportunities to experience the charm of Catalonia from the inside. Overview.
Vic, the vibrant capital of Osona
Every Tuesday and Saturday morning, the stalls of Vic's market are set up on Plaça Major, displaying their myriad scents and colours in one of the most beautiful Catalan squares. The excitement is in full swing, summarizing here all the vitality of this city full of history, a dynamic home in the Catalan hinterland. The neuralgic Plaça Major is a jewel in itself, surrounded by arcades and stately buildings with facades that are mixed with warm shades that are revived by the sun's rays.
From there, the narrow cobbled streets of the old town thread their way through, serving an ancient and preserved cultural heritage, starting with the cathedral of Sant Pere, topped by its tall Romanesque bell tower - the tallest Romanesque tower in Catalonia - erected in the 11th century by the abbot and bishop of the city. Its neoclassical façade conceals a fascinating string of wall paintings by Josep Maria Sert, a Catalan painter and muralist of his time.
A stone's throw away, the Episcopal Museum unveils one of Europe's most precious collections of medieval art, preserving an invaluable collection of paintings and wooden sculptures from the Romanesque and Gothic periods. Perched on one of the city's highest points, the Roman temple, once hidden in the architecture of the late Château de Montcada - which preserved it within its walls - proudly dominates the city.
Of course, we will not leave Vic without having pushed the door of a traditional delicatessen or embossment making workshop with tasting, the city having forged a fine reputation in this field.
The charm of old stones
30 minutes north of the capital, the Romanesque monastery of Sant Pere de Casserres - the only Benedictine monastery in Osona County - unveils its silent charms nestled in the hollow of a meander in the middle course of the Ter River in a superb panorama enveloped in green. Resourced by the stopover, we will continue on to Rupit, a pretty stone village classified as a historic monument which has managed to preserve from its glorious past all the charm of its stone buildings with abundantly flowered balconies, its steep alleys and its paved squares, making the village a true medieval treasure.
On the borders of the natural spaces of Collsacabra and Les Guilleries stands the charming village of Tavertet: from the top of its limestone plateau, a natural belvedere, the view of the valley fascinates visitors and walkers who have come to explore these unique landscapes. But the region also hides some pearls of modernism: 15 minutes east of Vic, Sant Julià de Vilatorta is dotted with modernist buildings with prolific decor, second homes built under the impetus of the Barcelona bourgeoisie. To the north of the county, bathed in the pastoral landscapes of Lluçanès, we will finally visit the charming village of Alpens where wrought iron dresses the doors and balconies, without forgetting to stop at the Romanesque monastery of Santa Maria de Lluçà nestled at the foot of a hill itself topped by the Château de Lluçà.
A fascinating nature
Cascades, rivers, oak forests and mountainous massifs are in these regions ideal for a wide range of activities, from first flight in a hot air balloon, to sports excursions by mountain bike, bird watching, horseback riding, climbing, golf or water sports practiced in the heart of the sparkling panoramas of Pantà de Sau.
Camí Oliba (GR-151), which links Montserrat to the Pyrenees by crossing the low mountains of Osona, also invites you to discover a beautiful sample of Catalan Romanesque art, from the parish church of Santa Eulàlia de Riuprimer to the enchanting bell tower of Sant Romà de Sau, a remnant of the submerged city that rises to the end of its nose when the waters of Lake Sau are low enough. From Viladrau, we will set off on an assault on the many trails that run through the Montseny Natural Park: classified as a "Biosphere Reserve" by UNESCO, it offers nearly thirty thousand hectares of breathtaking peaks, flowing springs, valleys and forests that autumn magnifies with its fabulous palette of colours. A getaway to the enchanting park of the Château de Montesquiu, a 13th century fortified structure proudly erected in the Pyrenees foothills, is another opportunity to immerse yourself in an omnipresent nature.
From farm to table: an ode to Catalan cuisine
A complex heir to Mediterranean culinary traditions as much as it is sewn with know-how, Catalan cuisine exalts a strong character with mixed influences. The Osona region, proud of its traditions handed down through the generations, stands out for its quality agricultural production and its local cuisine prepared by innovative chefs who brilliantly handle the range of regional products. A jewel of local gastronomy, we will enjoy a traditional delicatessen with a protected designation, from llonganissa, a dry sausage made from minced meat, bacon and pork, to somalla, a semi-dry sausage, to botifarra and its meat seasoned with spices or a finely calibrated fuet. Gourmet palates will also appreciate the range of cheeses produced in the region. The Betara cheese dairy in Olost won six medals at this year's World Cheese Championship, making it the most awarded cheese maker in Catalonia.
Other indigenous foods are also found on restaurant tables and market stalls: white beans from Collsacabra, chickpeas from Oristà, bufet potatoes, black truffles, aromatic herbs, but also Osona bread, whose production secrets can be discovered along the "Lluçanès bread and milk route". On the sweet side, the pessic pasta, a delicious light and spongy biscuit that is similar to our Biscuit de Savoie, is another specialty to discover. And there is nothing better than to experience local cuisine than to attend one of Osona's many culinary festivities, such as the Mercat del Ram, which hosts the capital in April, the Fira Gastronòmica del Porc i la Cervesa de Manlleu in September or the Fira de la Castanya held in October in the small village of Alpens. A land of gastronomy, natural Eden and a broth of culture, the region boasts a diversified heritage that smells of authenticity
Smart info
When? When? All year round. The region enjoys a continental Mediterranean climate with warm temperatures in summer and cold temperatures in winter in these mountainous regions. If spring is the most pleasant season, the county organizes many events, guided tours and nature activities throughout the year.
Getting there. Vic is 69 kilometres from Barcelona and 156 kilometres from Tarragona. By car from Barcelona, follow the C-17 motorway towards Ripoll (55 minutes). Barcelona airport is also very well served from France. Finally, it should be noted that trains and buses connect Vic to Barcelona on a daily basis.
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