An authentic mosaic of landscapes and mixed traditions with a history as ancient as that of the Iberians, Catalonia is a region full of treasures well guarded by a generous population. Among these regions, thriving between the Maresme and the Montseny massif, the Vallès Oriental is located at an ideal geographical crossroads for those seeking peace. 30 minutes from Barcelona and 15 minutes from the Mediterranean beaches, this kingdom of green plains nourishes body and mind, offering its culture, gastronomy and the benefits of its thermal waters.
Culture, for the mind
It all starts in Granollers, the capital of the Vallès Oriental. From Plaça de Can Trullàs and its Roman necropolis, we head towards the City Museum, which houses a diverse collection of historical elements dating back to the 12th century and striking works of contemporary art of international renown. A stone's throw away, the medieval fortification of the Adoberia takes us back to the distant past, while the city's anti-aircraft refuge explores a significant episode of the civil war in Catalonia: the bombing of Granollers in May 1938. From there, take the main street and its market dating from 1004 to the modernist building of the Science Museum, where you can study the life of bats, among other things! The breathtaking collection of butterflies and other giant insects as well as the nocturnal turpitudes of the chiropterans do not leave you indifferent
Then direction Cardedeu, a modest city with a rich heritage, starting with the collection of cosmopolitan archives of the Tomàs Balvey Museum. The star is the original apothecary's pharmacy, dating from 1780, where you can learn more about the healing properties of plants, which abound in the garden. A pleasant detour to the municipal cemetery built around 1920 by Manuel Joaquim Raspall (disciple of Domènech i Montaner) will then allow you to appreciate picturesque tombs, serene under the shaded vault of the trees. It is to the same man that we owe many modernist villas - including the sensational Casa Viader - that dot the streets of the village, once the summer houses of the Barcelona bourgeoisie
Transplanting southwards, we discover in Mollet del Vallès the birthplace of Joan Abelló, landscape painter, who houses an opulent compilation of 19th and 20th century paintings. In the neighbouring village, we find the archaeological site of Mons Observans, an open-air testimony of the Roman presence in these places in the 2nd century BC. This cultural route will be completed by the pretty town of Caldes de Montbui, a thermal town where the sculptor Manolo Hugué, whose hands were prone to arthritis at the end of his life, had chosen a home to heal its pains. The last floor of the Thermalia Museum displays a beautiful collection of his work, as well as some of his friend Picasso's creations
Gastronomy, for the body
It is also in Caldes that we will learn about a singular activity dating back to 1700: the production of pasta from thermal water! Like a sign, a gigantic noodle - the pebble, a type of pasta consumed at Christmas - shows the way to the Sanmartí factory where about ten workers work around old machines, mixing wheat flour with beneficial water and skilfully cutting freshly formed spaghetti
The Vallès Oriental cultivates, in the image of its terroir, a rich and varied, traditional and seasonal gastronomy. In addition to local vegetables, dried fruit, honey and cold meats (including the famous embutits), two products stand out: Ganxet beans, in the form of a hook, and AO Allela wine. In this respect, the CuinaVO collective of chefs is working to promote the identity of the region's gastronomy, which will be experienced around the many tables around it. As a sample, let's mention here the wild boar balls with peas, eaten in the fall
For the curious, there are many activities related to agriculture: many producers open their doors to visitors. Let us mention here the Celler Can Roda where excellent AO Allela wines age in barrels, but also the brewers of Art Cervesers and their seven beers, as well as those of Cervesa Sant Jordi who offer a visit to their modernist factory followed by a commented tasting of cervesas. You can also familiarize yourself with the milk production process and think of yourself as a cheesemaker at the La Païssa organic farm, and take the instruction further in the Can Bordoi or Can Gorgs cheese dairy, a specialist in raw goat's milk located in the heart of Montseny. In Bigues i Riells, you can stroll through an olive grove dominated by the splendid Masia Can Viver, an ancient farmhouse full of stories where olive oil is made
The entire tour is detailed, from harvesting to bottling. And to finish with a gourmet introduction to oleology. It is impossible to visit the Vallès Oriental without mentioning the various sweets and pastries that the inhabitants love: nougat, Carquinyolis (almond-based), Borregos (aniseed-based) or the delicious Rajol de Granollers, a puff pastry and cocoa tile filled with praline and hazelnut, celebrated in great style on the occasion of the capital's Festa Major
Thermalism, for body and mind
Discovering the hot springs, the Romans already settled here more than 2,000 years ago. The remains of the baths at Can Terrers, in La Garriga, bear witness to this. Nowadays, the inhabitants continue to take advantage of the healing properties of water, a phenomenon that can be measured by following the tours of the splendid Hotel Termes La Garriga or the luxurious complex of the Hotel Blancafort, founded in 1840 and once the Mecca of the aristocracy. Treatments and massages on the agenda! To perfect your knowledge and deepen your sense of well-being, you will head for Caldes de Montbui, the other spa town in the region. After greeting the Font del Lleó (Lion Spring), whose mouth spits out a water at 74°C charged with minerals, then taking a look at the imposing Roman baths in the village square, we will push the door of the Thermalia Museum where the scientific background of the phenomenon is recounted - the water gushing here has travelled for 10,000 years to more than 3,000 metres in the depths of the Earth! -as well as the history of thermalism and the city. A story that is still very much alive, with the villagers still bleaching their laundry in the vast tanks of the washhouses that are still in use. One of them, El Safareig, has recently been transformed into a municipal spa, allowing for a modest fee to relax muscles, strengthen bones and heal the skin while relaxing the mind. Other thermal centres complete the picture, such as the Balneari Broquetas, whose outdated facade is not lacking in charm, and the brand new and intimate thermal circuit of the Victòria Term, ideal for treating osteoarthritis and rheumatism. Every year in mid-July, Caldes honours this blessed heritage in a joyful atmosphere during the celebration of water and fire. To reconnect with yourself and soothe your moods, get a prescription: a getaway in the Vallès Oriental!
Smart info
When? When? The Vallès Oriental can be visited all year round. If summer is the season of village festivals with a communicative effervescence, autumn and winter tint the landscape with shimmering colours and solid country cuisine and thermal baths take on their full meaning
Duration. A long weekend, of 3 or 4 days, will allow you to enjoy the main attractions of the region: museums, gastronomy and thermalism. However, you can extend your stay to a full week to enjoy the charms of the Vallès Oriental more quietly
Public. Everyone is welcome and there is something for everyone: art lovers, history buffs, fine food lovers, sports enthusiasts... and of course anyone looking for relaxation and serenity.
Budget. Everything depends on what you are looking for, but overall, the prices charged both in hotels and restaurants and in thermal spas are lower than in France
Getting there. From Barcelona, it is easy to reach the Vallès Oriental by public transport: trains leave frequently from Sants station, reaching Granollers in about 30 minutes. Other parts of the region are also accessible by bus. If you have a car, allow 30 minutes of travel
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