A little sister to the better-known island of Trinidad, Tobago is a forgotten jewel in the south of the Caribbean arc, with a population of just 60,000, who are particularly welcoming and can be toured by car in a day. But beware: in this English-speaking country, you drive on the left and the roads are often winding mountain roads!
Just a few kilometers from the South American continent, satellites of the great Venezuela, Trinidad & Tobago have inherited an exuberant flora and fauna, very different from those to which the region is accustomed. These two islands were separated from the mainland several hundred thousand years ago, and have retained their original plant and animal species, while developing their own biodiversity through endemic species, such as a third of the birds that breed in Tobago today. The underwater world is not to be outdone, and whether you're a fan of diving, board sports, photography, hiking or simply lazing around (we say "liming" in Tobago), you'll love this little paradise where the weather is fine all year round and which, a rarity in the Caribbean, is outside the zone frequented by hurricanes.
The world's oldest forest reserve (since 1776)
A small island with a lace-like coastline, Tobago boasts numerous fine sandy beaches, often invisible from the road, where you can relax after a stroll through the Main Ridge forest reserve, which covers around 60% of the island. This forest reserve is one of the most beautiful in the Caribbean. It was the first in the region, declared as such in April 1776 to protect its ability to hold back clouds and subsequently provide water for agriculture, Tobago's main resource at the time. The backbone of the island, this tropical rainforest is quite mountainous, with its highest point reaching 604 meters. But the majority of its surface lies between 200 and 300 meters above sea level, offering superb hiking trails that are often accessible to all, sometimes starting on the beach before climbing up to discover superb waterfalls in the heart of the forest. Tobago's numerous waterfalls, scattered all over the island, could be the theme of a trip in themselves. Going in search of a waterfall is an adventure in itself, and gives you the opportunity to enjoy the natural richness of the jungle before diving into the cool, crystal-clear waters of the natural pools that form at their feet.
Over 260 bird species
During these hikes in the heart of the tropical jungle, it's common - especially when accompanied by a good guide - to see or hear birds taking advantage of the forest's countless resources to feed themselves and their offspring. Hummingbirds, among the smallest winged inhabitants of the jungle, are the easiest to spot thanks to their jerky flight and the sound made by their characteristic wingbeats, which can reach a rate of 90 beats per second! If you're lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of one of the world's largest hummingbirds, the White-tailed Campyloptera, with its iridescent green back and brilliant blue-violet throat. One of the easiest birds to recognize by ear is undoubtedly one of the two birds featured on the country's coat of arms, the Cocrico, also called Chacalaca by the locals. The song of this red-bellied Ortalyde, "cha ka laka", is very powerful indeed, resounding every morning and evening at the edge of the woods. The second bird in the Trinidad & Tobago coat of arms is the Scarlet Ibis, which lives in Trinidad and can be seen at sunset on the Caroni Marsh. In Tobago, seabirds are not to be outdone, breeding in colonies on isolated islets such as Little Tobago, off Speyside, which is home to a very interesting bird sanctuary that is easy to visit thanks to boats that take you there in 20 minutes from Speyside. Red-legged Boobies can be seen breeding here, as well as the rarer Red-billed Tropicbird, which is often harassed by large Frigatebirds trying to steal its catch. Unlike most seabirds, the Frigate is not blessed with waterproof plumage and must resort to attacking its more fortunate congeners for food.
Sea turtle nesting site
The Frigate is one of the biggest predators of the sea turtles that come to lay their eggs on the beaches of Tobago and north-east Trinidad. They hover peacefully above the sandy beaches, waiting for the eggs of sea turtles to hatch, having returned to their birth beaches a few weeks earlier to lay dozens of eggs in the large holes they make in the sand with exhausting effort. When the eggs hatch, all the little turtles race to reach the sea, where they are swallowed by the menacing black birds, who take advantage of the opportunity to offer themselves a feast unmatched for the rest of the year.
Out of a thousand hatchlings, only one will reach adulthood and return several years later to the beach where it hatched to continue the cycle. Of the 3 species of turtle that come to Tobago's shores to breed, the most impressive are undoubtedly the leatherbacks, some of which can weigh up to a ton! What a weight to move once on the sand for egg-laying when armed with powerful flippers that are not very effective out of the water! The other two species that breed in Tobago are the hawksbill turtle, recognizable by its hawk-like hooked beak, which can weigh up to 75 kg, and the more common green turtle, also known as the hawksbill turtle, which weighs up to 150 kg, a size that's already impressive. Both egg-laying and hatching are closely monitored by various conservation associations, which also organize excursions to discover the incredible life cycle of these mythical animals.
White, pink or even black sand
There are no studies on whether our sea turtle friends have a particular attraction for coloured sands, but Tobago would be an ideal place to try and answer this question. There are candy-pink sands, such as on the beach at Lover's Bay, a little-known bay in the north-east of the island, but also immaculate white sands, such as at Pigeon Point, which is much better known than Lover's Bay. And for those who like extreme variations, a 5-kilometre trail through the forest will take you from the village of Moriah, on the heights near the famous Craig Hall waterfall, to King Peter's Bay, where you can leave your footprints on a black sand that is unique in the country. Don't forget your sandals!
Wherever you go on the island's leeward coast, from Charlotteville to Crown Point, you'll be in awe of the exuberant nature that thrives just a stone's throw from the big blue. The windward coast is steeper, of course, but you can also discover heavenly little spots such as Speyside and its two bays, known for providing an ideal refuge for mantas at the end of winter.
Beautiful forts to visit
While exploring Tobago and its beaches, it's not uncommon to come across some lovely abandoned fortresses, often well-maintained for the pleasure of visitors and containing ancient cannons used to defend the island against invaders from the sea or the neighboring bay at the time of the colonial conquests. Fort Benett, at the end of the superb Black Rock beach, is an excellent example, and the sunsets here are absolutely splendid against the backdrop of the small battery of cannons that towers above the sea. It was built between 1628 and 1636 by the Dutch, masters of the island at the time. It was later reinforced by the Courlanders (the Duchy of Courland is today a territory of Latvia) and then by the English, as they took power. The best-known of these forts is probably Fort Milford, located close to the airport at Crown Point, where many visitors gather in the evening to photograph the orange and red sunsets over the sea.
An eventful history
The number of forts along Tobago's coastline is the best testimony to the intensity of the covetousness aroused by this small island. Indeed, Tobago has changed hands more than 33 times in its history, setting a world record for colonized islands. Spaniards, English, Dutch, French and Courlanders have alternated in their occupation of this coveted little island. At the end of the 16th century, the object of all covetousness, particularly for the Spanish, was the labor force available on the island, which was often sent to Isla Margarita, a now Venezuelan island located some 100 miles east of Tobago, to reinforce the pearl-fishing crews in which Isla Margarita and its little sister Cubagua abounded. But by the early 17th century, with the indigenous population all but extinct, other European kingdoms alternately set about getting their hands on the territory for agricultural purposes, importing large numbers of slaves from Africa. The Amerindians, mainly Kalinagos from what is now Venezuela and Karibs from other Caribbean islands, did not make it easy for them and fought relentlessly to drive out the invaders, at the cost of many lives. Their unexpected resistance probably explains Tobago's sad record for the number of occupations. Today's population is largely descended from African slaves, often mixed over the centuries, unlike the population of Trinidad, its big sister, which has a much larger Indian component. At the time of the abolition of slavery, the British brought workers from India, one of their colonies, to Trinidad, mainly to work in the sugarcane fields.
A paradise for board sports
In addition to its superb sandy beaches, often bordered by rainforest, Tobago boasts a magnificent lagoon, Bon Accord, located in the southwest of the island, framed by Pigeon Point beach and the fishing village of Buccoo. This picture-postcard lagoon is a favorite playground for windsurfers and kitesurfers, who come from far and wide to tack on a calm sea protected from swell by the surrounding reef, and enjoying steady winds during the trade winds, which generally run from December to May. For those who prefer to relax, Pigeon Point boasts a magnificent white-sand beach where you can curl up in a hammock in the shade of the coconut palms. But surfers won't be forgotten by nature either, as beautiful rollers await them as soon as they leave the reef. The whole of the leeward coast is ideal for wave-making, with spots changing throughout the year as the wind and currents change.
The bioluminescent lagoon
For some years now, the Bon Accord lagoon has had a new nickname: the Bio Bay. This is where night-time excursions by paddle or kayak are organized, offering visitors a unique opportunity to discover the bioluminescence of plankton. This phenomenon, often observed at the edge of mangroves, which are rich in plankton, is particularly powerful here, and the lagoon sometimes seems artificially lit from the abyssal depths, when in fact the bottom is within paddling distance. In fact, it's the movement of your paddle in the water that activates the bioluminescence of dinoflagellates, the micro-organisms that are responsible for the underwater aurora borealis, just a stone's throw from Buccoo Reef.
Fins, mask and snorkel
During the day, this reef is the perfect place to enjoy a snorkeling trip and observe the myriad multicolored fish that frolic and breed here. Numerous tour operators, often based at Pigeon Point or Store Bay, the nearby public beach, offer boat trips to discover the famous "Nylon pool", a large natural swimming pool with crystal-clear waters barely 1 metre deep, where you can step into anything. Princess Margaret of the British Crown gave the pool its name on her honeymoon in 1962, comparing its transparency to that of nylon stockings. The glass-bottomed boats that take visitors there literally seem to be pinned between the sky and the sand of this magical spot, which legend has it will make anyone who comes to bathe 10 years younger. And if you come as a couple, the crew will quickly tell you that all you have to do is kiss underwater at Nylon Pool and you'll be happy for the rest of your life!
Over 50 dive sites
This marvellous reef, which protects the water surface for water sports enthusiasts, will also delight scuba divers, offering them a diversity of coral that is rare in the Caribbean. The region's largest brain corals, sometimes reaching several meters in diameter, provide refuge for lobsters, moray eels and sometimes sea turtles, which like to nap in their protective shade. There are three main diving areas around the island: the Caribbean coast, the South coast and Speyside.
The Caribbean coast, which stretches for 50 kilometers from Crown Point to Charlotteville, is home to numerous dive sites, from the superb Sisters drop-off, the two rocks that emerge off Parlatuvier, to the wreck of the Maverick, a former passenger ship deliberately sunk by the local dive operators' association in 1997. Today, it has become one of Tobago's flagship sites, and visitors come from far and wide to get to know it.
The south coast, just off Crown Point airport, is home to nurse sharks, turtles and a wide variety of pelagic species that take advantage of the strong currents to play hide-and-seek with divers flying over the reef without exerting any effort.
The Holy Grail of diving in Tobago, however, remains Speyside and its small satellite islands, Goat Island and Little Tobago. These two islands, often bathed by the plankton-rich waters of the Orinoco delta, the main river of nearby Venezuela, are home to exceptional underwater fauna. Giant barracudas and stingrays frolic amid fields of tubular sponges several metres high, providing refuge for pretty crabs and multicoloured shrimps. In the right season, from around January to May, it's not uncommon to come across beautiful manta rays that can reach a wingspan of over 4 meters, attracted by these plankton-rich waters. Visibility may suffer, but the joy of a manta encounter soon makes up for it.
Ideal honeymoon destination
Pigeon Point, Castara, Charlotteville or Batteaux Bay in Speyside are all beaches worthy of a postcard or, better still, of being the backdrop for the most beautiful honeymoon photos. Whatever your budget, you'll easily find what you're looking for among the many options on offer on this small island paradise, and newlyweds will be able to plan an unforgettable trip without spending a fortune. Deserted beaches, mysterious waterfalls, crystal-clear waters, untamed nature and sports galore - what better program for a successful honeymoon?
Easily accessible
The destination is now easily accessible from both Europe and North America, thanks to numerous direct international flights to Trinidad, which can easily be combined with the shuttle service provided by Caribbean Airlines, the national carrier, which links Trinidad to Tobago some fifteen times a day. It's even possible to fly directly to Tobago from London or Frankfurt, so don't hesitate to discover the wild side of the Caribbean! If you can devote at least 2 weeks to your trip, don't hesitate to plan a combined trip that includes Trinidad, which also has some wonderful surprises in store for visitors and is only a 20-minute flight from Tobago.
Scarlet ibises transforming the mangroves into Christmas trees every evening, just before the last rays of sunlight fall on the Caroni marsh, or leatherback turtles laying eggs on Grande-Rivière beach in spring, are just some of the natural wonders this small country has to offer, and will complete your dream trip to one of the best preserved islands in the Caribbean.
FUTURE INFO
When to visit?
All year round! Tobago enjoys a subtropical climate, with constant temperatures all year round. They fluctuate between 20°C and 30°C.
- For wind: December to May.
- For turtle egg-laying and hatching: March to July.
- For manta rays: February/March.
Duration
As the trip from Europe is fairly long, you should allow at least a week on the island, but you'll need at least twice that to fully enjoy the island and discover its big sister, Trinidad. If you arrive in the country with a stopover in Trinidad, you can spend the first 4 days of your stay in Trinidad to discover its main attractions, and then spend another 10 days in Tobago.
Budget
In line with the average for Caribbean islands, Tobago remains an affordable island where you can find decent accommodation for US$50 a day. For meals, expect to pay around US$20 on average for a dish in a traditional restaurant, but you can eat in small local restaurants for less than US$10 per person. The cost of international flights from Europe varies from €800 to €1,200, depending on the period and itinerary.
Time difference
Tobago is on Atlantic Standard Time (AST), GMT-4. This means minus 5 hours in winter and minus 6 hours in summer compared with France. In January, when it's 8pm in Paris, it's 3pm in Tobago.
Public
Tobago is a very safe island, perfectly suited to both couples and families. It's a paradise for divers and board sports enthusiasts alike, as well as for hikers and idlers.
Getting there
Without passing through the United States: with British Airways from London, Condor from Frankfurt or Air France/KLM from Amsterdam with a stopover in Trinidad.
Via the USA: thanks to the frequent shuttle service between Trinidad and Tobago, there's a wide choice of flights with a stopover in the USA. Caribbean Airlines, United Airlines, Jetblue and American Airlines offer daily flights from the USA to Port of Spain. From Canada: Caribbean Airlines offers direct flights from Toronto to Port of Spain.
Tobago in figures
- 300 km² surface area
- Approx. 60,000 inhabitants
- 260 bird species (at least)
- 50 diving sites
- 25 forest waterfalls
- 4 species of sea turtle
Information
Tobago Tourism Agency Limited is responsible for promoting tourism in Tobago, and its website is a mine of information for travelers.
Tel: +1 868 612 8825 ext 2001
Contact in France for agencies and individuals:
Tel: +33 6 01 21 33 76
