Discover Hong-Kong 香港 : Macau's neighborhoods

Macau, at once discreet and flamboyant, blends European nostalgia with Asian extravagance. This compact territory of 33.3 km², once limited to a peninsula, now extends to the landfilled islands of Taipa and Coloane, linked by the Cotai Strip, temple of casinos. Just an hour by boat and 60 kilometers apart, Macau offers a totally different world from Hong Kong: cobbled streets, baroque churches and pastel facades contrast with the neon lights of Cotai's ultra-modern resorts. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Old Town tells the story of Portugal in the Middle Kingdom, while the Cotai Strip evokes the ambitions of modern Macau, where gambling is not just a pastime but a colossal industry. A unique blend of tradition, delicacies and kitsch, easily discovered in a day or two, on foot and by bus or cab.

The Old Town

Largo do Senado and São Lourenço. The São Lourenço district is Macau's historic jewel, and the Largo do Senado (or Senado Square) is its nerve center. This cobbled square, surrounded by pastel-colored colonial buildings, embodies the Portuguese soul that has permeated the city since the 16th century. But if these buildings are so striking today, it's thanks to a vast renovation program undertaken in the 1990s, when Macau, still under Portuguese administration, was preparing to be handed back to China in 1999. This colossal project had two objectives: to preserve an exceptional heritage while at the same time registering the old town as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which was achieved in 2005. The idea was to make the city a cultural bridge between Europe and Asia, a mission that Macau continues to fulfill to this day.

Visitors stroll through shady arcades and cobbled streets reminiscent of Lisbon or Porto, but with a uniquely Asian ambience. Take time to browse the traditional craft and souvenir stores before heading to the famous ruins of Saint-Paul. This imposing baroque facade, the remains of a Jesuit cathedral decorated with Asian elements and destroyed by fire in 1835, is a symbol of Macau's tumultuous and fascinating history.

Rua da Felicidade. Rua da Felicidade, literally "Street of Happiness", lives up to its name today, but hides a sulphurous past. Once the heart of forbidden pleasures, this street was known for its brothels and gambling dens. Its red and white facades still evoke those days, but today the street has undergone a metamorphosis. Red lanterns now mark out a gourmet itinerary where Chinese restaurants rub shoulders with pastelarias, those typical cookie shops where the smell of almonds fills the air. It's here that you can sample local specialties, such as the famous shark fin soup or snake soup, typical Chinese dishes that the Macanese associate with medicinal and aphrodisiac virtues. The narrow streets nearby, such as Travessa do Mastro, provide the perfect backdrop for photographs.

São Lazaro and Santo António. A little removed from the hustle and bustle of the tourist trade, the districts of São Lazaro and Santo António are well worth a visit to sample a more intimate side of Macau. The atmosphere here is peaceful, almost meditative. Stroll through the Camões Gardens, a haven of serenity where locals come for their morning exercise or to feed the birds. This park is also a tribute to Luís de Camões, the great Portuguese poet who, according to legend, composed part of his major work Les Lusiades in this city. This district also boasts a rich religious heritage: colonial churches stand side by side with Taoist temples steeped in incense. The São Lazaro district is one of the most authentic in Macau. With its cobbled streets and pastel-colored colonial houses, it exudes a tranquil atmosphere, just a stone's throw from the hustle and bustle of the tourist attractions. Ideal to visit in the afternoon - as everything is closed in the morning - São Lazaro has become a haven for local designers. Its small souvenir and craft stores sit alongside charming cafés, patisseries and restaurants.

Joseph Kessel's Macau. Macau in the 1950s is described by Joseph Kessel as "a white and discreet coast, languid, numb even in its Chinatown with a charm that always turned to bewitchment. It was as if a magical operation had transported the essence of Portugal from the Atlantic shores to the extreme tip of Canton Bay...". A city which "because of the shape of its houses, its arcades, its churches, a certain nonchalant gait of the passers-by and their singing language, had the quiet sweetness of the paseos in the Iberian provincial towns". Nevertheless, the writer was already lamenting the existence of two skyscrapers "extravagant, massive, out of place, hideous, devastating all perspectives and harmonies". This contrast can still be seen today in the old town: the desire to preserve the authenticity of the area sometimes clashes with the growing influence of commerce and mass tourism. A striking contrast that has not yet completely removed the charm of this unique city.

Cotai Strip, Taipa Village and Coloane

Cotai Strip. The Cotai Strip embodies Macau's excess and modernity. This futuristic boulevard, located on a strip of land created by the filling-in in 1968 of the former isthmus linking the islands of Taipa and Coloane, has become the temple of gambling and luxury in Asia. Cotai, a contraction of COlOane and TAIpa, boasts some of the world's most extravagant hotel and casino complexes. The Venetian, with its Venice-like canals, the Londoner with its Big Ben, the Parisian with its Eiffel Tower and the Galaxy, a veritable golden palace, offer spectacular experiences combining grandiose shows, lively gaming tables and star-studded gastronomy. Connected to the historic peninsula by four bridges, this ultramodern area contrasts with the old-world charm of the old town.

Taipa Village. Set back from the neon lights, a stone's throw from the Cotai Strip, Taipa Village retains the spirit of a traditional village. Stroll through its cobbled streets, where street food stalls, colonial houses and discreet temples coexist. Taste local street food such as the famous beef jerky. This contrast with the Cotai Strip offers a breath of fresh air and an immersion in local culture, although tourists are increasingly flocking here too.

Coloane. Macau's last haven of peace, Coloane has a charming seaside atmosphere. A few kilometers from the casinos, discover the village of Coloane and its Saint-François-Xavier church, or treat yourself to a stroll along the seafront. Hiking enthusiasts will love Coloane's natural park trails, beaches and green spaces. And above all, don't leave without tasting the famous pastéis de nata from Lord Stow's Bakery, an emblem of the island.
So, between the memories of Portugal and the effervescence of China, Macau is a city with a thousand faces. Part museum, part open-air casino, this destination invites you to stroll and marvel. A perfect escape, between history and a change of scenery.

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