Obviously Burgundian dishes!
You don't need to have visited the Côte d'Or (and Burgundy in general) to be familiar with some of its fine specialties. And with good reason: their names alone clearly announce the color of the region. Such is the case with the traditional boeuf bourguignon and the famous Burgundy snails, enjoyed here since... prehistoric times! Their size is unique (larger than that of most other species), and they are most often served in their shells with parsley butter. However, there are many variations to choose from, gracing restaurant menus and the stalls of local producers. The potée bourguignonne, derived from the traditional potée, uses only local produce. But alongside these dishes and meats that carry their origins like a banner, there remains a surprising exception: the fondue bourguignonne. Contrary to appearances, it wasn't born here at all, but... in Switzerland! A Lausanne restaurateur invented it in 1948. He called it that because his original recipe called for Charolais meat (from neighboring Saône-et-Loire) accompanied by red wines from the prestigious Côte des Grands Crus.
On the menu, great classics
In the kitchens, other specialties are a must. Like the emblematic jambon persillé, which originated near Dijon, where it was served during Easter celebrations in the 14th century. Akin to fromage de tête, this traditional charcuterie is made from ham and pork shoulder, thinly sliced and coated with parsley jelly, then cooked in a white wine and mustard broth (from Burgundy, of course!). Over the years, Burgundy truffles have become a highly prized product among consumers and restaurateurs alike, who are increasingly featuring them on their menus. Many people are involved in their promotion, notably the Confrérie de la Truffe de Bourgogne d'Is-sur-Tille. In this small town some twenty kilometers north of Dijon, texts dating back to the 14th century describe it as one of the main dishes in royal kitchens. But many of the department's villages also have truffle-growing areas, and a number of producers are also involved. In Bure-les-Templiers, the association La Truffe côte-d'orienne(www.truffe-bourgogne.fr) acts as an intermediary for the Syndicat des Producteurs de Truffes de la Côte-d'Or, which organizes the industry. In addition, a number of private operators with a passion for this black diamond offer a highly interesting range of truffle discoveries. Like La Maison aux Mille truffes by l'Or des Valois in Marey-lès-Fussey, near Nuits-Saint-Georges.
Is that all? Of course not! If there's one dish that's particularly popular here, it's eggs en meurette: poached eggs served in a sauce of red wine, lardons, onions and shallots browned in butter. To all this, let's add the many starters and dishes based on Epoisses. The most famous of Burgundy cheeses, AOC since 1991, is made from cow's milk and matured in Burgundy marc. Its orange color, distinctive aroma and smooth, soft consistency are well known. The court of Louis XIV swore by it! What about fish? The Saône, a major navigable river in the Côte-d'Or region, is also one of Europe's richest in fish. Trout, pike-perch and pike-perch all bring their flavors to many dishes, such as pôchouse (or pauchouse): a traditional recipe that combines lean-fleshed fish (pike, perch) and fat-fleshed fish (eel, tench) with thyme, lots of garlic (5 to 6 cloves), coarse salt and a dash of white aligoté wine. Pôchouse is eaten mainly in the Val de Saône and Franche-Comté regions. A very local specialty. As is Morvandelle cuisine and its famous charcuterie, especially near Saulieu. Or the so-called "côte vineuse", which stretches from the Côte-d'Or to Saône-et-Loire. Here, coq au chambertin (or more generally, coq au vin) and pavé bourguignon are often served. Not to mention gaudes: a preparation made from cornflour mixed with milk, to be enjoyed sweet or savoury. Inexpensive, gaudes were for centuries a staple food for peasant families in Bresse, Haut-Jura and Côte-d'Or.
The incredible story of the Gaston Gérard chicken
A great classic of Dijon cuisine, poulet Gaston Gérard is a dish based on chicken, white wine, crème fraîche, mustard, grated Comté cheese and paprika. The recipe was devised in 1930 by Reine Geneviève Bourgogne, wife of Dijon politician Gaston Gérard (1878-1969). The man was Under-Secretary of State under the Third Republic, and the very first member of the government to be in charge of tourism. Mayor of Dijon from 1919 to 1935, deputy for Côte-d'Or in the '30s, Gérard worked hard to build his city's gastronomic reputation throughout his terms of office. He gave over 600 conferences in 32 countries to promote Burgundy, and Dijon in particular. In 1921, he also founded the Fédération des Syndicats d'Initiatives de Bourgogne and the Dijon Gastronomic Fair. But let's get back to the chicken that bears his name. In truth, this creation was born (like many others) from a simple accident. One day in 1930, while preparing a chicken of her own, Reine Geneviève Bourgogne spilled a jar of paprika into her dish. In an attempt to "save" her dish, she decided to add white wine, crème fraîche and grated Comté cheese. The recipe was such a success that their guest for the day (a famous food critic at the time) congratulated her... and immediately named the recipe after his host! Since then, Chicken Gaston Gérard has become a staple of Burgundian gastronomy.
Desserts and drinks: a wide choice!
All that remains is to conclude our meal with a few sweet treats. You'll often be offered a tasty pear poached in red wine, a vineyard peach tart (from here or from Saône-et-Loire), or numerous desserts and ice creams drizzled with Dijon blackcurrant coulis. Finally, to open, accompany and close your meals, apart from wines and crémants, in your glasses you'll have the choice between the famous marc de Bourgogne (a brandy made from the residue of grape pressing and drunk as a digestif), ratafia (a mixture of grape juice, must and marc, best served as an aperitif), or the many local beers. But the star here is, of course, the kir. Served since the 19th century in gargotes where blackcurrant was used to make poor-quality wine drinkable, this aperitif composed of blackcurrant liqueur (1/3) and white wine (often an aligoté) became the prerogative of local politicians, who elevated it to the rank of official drink at their banquets. After the war, Canon Kir (1876-1968) - priest and deputy mayor of Dijon for 22 years - took over the recipe, going so far as to sign an exclusive contract with a liqueur producer. The cocktail then took his name, and even entered the Petit Larousse dictionary of common names in 1976. The kir is best enjoyed with the famous gougères de Bourgogne: a pastry made with Comté or Gruyère cheese that's a must in every corner of Burgundy.
A multi-starred region
The Côte d'Or boasts 13 Michelin-starred restaurants. The 3-star winner is Maison Lameloise in Chagny. There are 2 2-starred chefs: William Frachot at Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge in Dijon and Patrick Bertron at Relais Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu. The 1 stars? In Dijon, Cibo - run by Angelo Ferrigno - was awarded its first star in 2021. Also in Dijon, Keigo Kimura at L'Aspérule, and Louis-Philippe Vigilant at Loiseau des Ducs. In Pernand-Vergelesses, Jordan Prot at the helm of Le Charlemagne. Christophe Quéant at Carmin, Beaune. In Chassagne-Montrachet, Émilie Rey and Édouard Mignot at Ed Em. Thomas Collomb at La Table d'Hôtes de la Rôtisserie du Chambertin in Gevrey-Chambertin. And let's not forget Philippe Augé and his Table de Levernois in Levernois, Nicolas Isnard at the Auberge de la Charme in Prenois, and Tomofumi Uchimura at the Origine restaurant in Dijon.
100% Côte d'Or know-how
Beyond restaurant menus and local cuisines, let's also salute the many small producers who contribute to the gastronomic reputation of the Côte-d'Or (and Burgundy as a whole). Launched in 2019 by the Conseil Départemental, the "Savoir-Faire 100% Côte-d'Or" label aims to give greater visibility to Côte-d'Or producers and breeders. A true guarantee of quality, this label is designed to respect the entire chain, from producer to consumer, including the environment. Featured products include Côte d'Or bread (a C-shaped baguette), and Côte d'Or cheese (a small, creamy cheese, a blend of chaource, langres and soumaintrain). As for wines, the Bourgogne Côte-d'Or appellation is based on a well-defined production zone (36 communes in Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, and 4 communes in Saône-et-Loire).
Dijon, European capital of gastronomy
Since its creation in 1921, the Foire internationale et gastronomique de Dijon has become the#1 economic and popular event in Burgundy, and the5th largest international fair in France. Every year, towards the end of October, it attracts almost 600 exhibitors and some 200,000 visitors. But that's not all: to further consolidate its status as the region's gastronomic capital, Dijon has added the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin. With an estimated investment of 250 million euros, this project, which has now been completed, puts Dijon and the whole of Burgundy on the international map. The Cité is located just a stone's throw from the city center, at kilometer 0 of the Route des Grands Crus, on the site of the former Hôpital Général. Spanning 22,000m2 on a 6.5-hectare site, it has already welcomed thousands of visitors. The prestigious Ferrandi school trains over a hundred young people from all over the world in French gastronomy. A 4-star hotel and 2 cinemas have also been built, as well as exhibition spaces, a conference center, the wine school and the Climats chapel. A must-see!
