Laurent Voulzy's song made it famous among the general public, but all Caribbean lovers already knew Marie-Galante, the second largest island in the archipelago after Guadeloupe itself. It offers magnificent landscapes (its lagoons and beaches are among the most beautiful in the Lesser Antilles), many traces of human and agricultural history, and also a certain art of living, authentic and simple, linked to insularity and its living conditions both rudimentary and peaceful. The very hospitable population invites you to dialogue. Thus, friendly and spontaneous greetings in the street are very frequent. So, no more time to lose, get off the beaten track and drop anchor on the banks of Marie-Galante
Rurality at a time of heavenly beaches
The rural tradition permeates the habitat which is very scattered because the 20,000 islanders have built on their land, so the road network is a real spider's web. The roads are magnificent, full of mill towers and an ever-changing and harmonious landscape. The seaside, eternally wild, invites contemplation. Traffic is pleasant, as there is no traffic lights or fast lanes. Here, no cap, no horn. The city of Grand-Bourg has been renovating and modernizing itself for a few years, there is even a beautiful marina planned. However, the charm of the old typical Creole huts has been preserved as well as its spice, flower and fish market where the merchants will be pleased to inform you: a real place of conviviality and relaxation.
Saint-Louis is the smallest commune in terms of population and also the oldest. It was here that the first French settlers settled. The charm of this city is totally preserved, you would think you were back a few decades ago. Saint-Louis is also the place that shelters the most beautiful beaches of Marie-Galante, with its very wild scenery, and you will also have the pleasure of discovering the landscapes and the lush countryside by taking one of the many hiking trails.
Capesterre to the south-east boasts a typical village with its town hall and church bordering the beautiful beach of Feuillère. As you venture there, and provided you are a nature explorer, you will find superb places (cliffs, caves, wild beaches, etc.) towards the "pebbles".
Soft, ecological and musical
Today, Marie-Galante is in full expansion as a tourist destination. Tourism professionals are beginning to take an interest in this Eldorado... The accommodation offered is increasingly elegant and well equipped. The island wishes to satisfy a rather well-off clientele, attracted by this small paradise so quiet! The trend that has always made Marie-Galante a day destination is reversing. La Galette" becomes a destination in its own right, so it is difficult to find accommodation during the holiday season, or even to rent a vehicle (especially during the Terre de Blues festival at Pentecost).
Marie-Galante has stayed away from the tourist hustle and bustle of the archipelago for so long that she is now waking up proud of her authenticity and traditions. Local leaders do not want to devalue their beautiful island with an overly expansionist policy. The active policy, carried out by the tourist office, focuses on the conservation of a rich cultural and historical heritage, and on the organisation of strong cultural festivities and events.
It is difficult not to fall under the spell of this soft and harmonious island where ecology is king, and where the population loves its tranquility. Its natural capital also makes it a dream destination for lovers of the great outdoors, in search of wild beaches. Turtles make no mistake about it, and come in summer to lay eggs in the sand.
The island of a hundred mills
Marie-Galante's main curiosity, these mills have bloomed like mushrooms on a relatively flat relief, guaranteeing optimal exploitation of the winds coming from the sea. The first of them, built in 1738, inaugurated a long series. Today, there are 72 of them still standing. Until the middle of the 19th century, they played an essential role in the island's economy. The last of them was built in 1843. With the Industrial Revolution, Marie-Galante entered the era of more efficient machines, which gradually replaced the mills. They were still used until 1946, when the last one still in operation (the one in Grand-Pierre, Saint-Louis) was abandoned.
Grand-Bourg, quietness and idleness
In Marie-Galante, once you arrive on the island, you can drive around it during the day. However, it is difficult to appreciate the tranquility of the area in 24 hours because there are many sites to visit. Usually, the first thing to be discovered is the Grand-Bourg pier. The island's capital lives to the rhythm of its town hall, its baroque church, interesting to visit and especially its port, which exudes a peaceful and warm atmosphere. The colourful boats, sometimes laden with lobsters or fish, contribute to this picturesque picture.
Near the pier, minibuses invite you to take a tour of the island. The best way to visit Grand-Bourg is to start from the corner of Avenue Jeanne-d'Arc and Rue du Presbytère, where its small town hall is located, and walk the streets around the church. The market is held in a small colourful square, occupied by spice, vegetable and fruit merchants of all kinds. On the sidewalks, fishermen sell fresh fish (tuna, sea bream, skate, etc.).
Capesterre, for the view!
On the coastal road (D203), when you follow the sea from the south-east, the discovery of the beaches of Petite-Anse, La Feuillère and Capesterre cannot leave you indifferent. The entrance to the village is really picturesque. With a little luck, you may be able to watch the fishing land. A colourful show, which we can't get enough of at Marie-Galante. But Capesterre is also the undulating greenery of the cane fields. Take the N9 or D201, then pass the steep descent of the Morne des Pères. The road dug like a deep groove in the mountain reserves its surprises. No visibility until the last bend, but you have climbed to a height, and the beauty of the site is obvious to you. The view of the bay is magnificent!
Saint-Louis, drop anchor in peace
Then, Saint-Louis stands at the bottom of a calm and protected bay. A real refuge for sailboats who appreciate this quiet anchorage, the village lives gently to the rhythm of fishing. The village of Saint-Louis, bathed in crystal clear waters, is representative of the small fishing villages of the Caribbean, particularly by the presence of its colourful huts, traditional dwellings in the region. A plaque fixed at the entrance of the pretty Art Deco building of the Saint-Louis Town Hall reminds us that Marie-Galante is twinned with Belle-Île-en-Mer. You can't get Voulzy's song out of your head!
Finally, long live the blues!
And since 2000, Marie-Galante has been hosting the Terre de Blues festival, from Friday to Monday of Pentecost. Over the years, it has become an essential Caribbean cultural event for the island, paying tribute to the musical genre born on the plantations. Many local and international artists perform there every year. On site, a festival village with an exhibition area made available to craftsmen from all the islands of Guadeloupe in order to promote their know-how. To appreciate a little more the Caribbean sweetness...
Smart info
When? When? The period from December to April is the high season. It is the most sought-after, and therefore the most expensive, so it is better to book well in advance. Between April and November, the number of visitors is less intense and the prices are actually more advantageous. It's the low season.
Getting there. Average price of a Paris-Pointe-à-Pitre flight: in high season, from €500 to €1,200 in economy class and in low season from €400 to €850. Then count between 20 and 40 € for the ferry crossing to Marie-Galante from Pointe-à-Pitre.
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