If this small piece of Spanish territory floating south of Ibiza is no longer the best-kept secret of Western Europe, it is still a sensational destination that continues to attract a rather elite public, but not only! The smallest island of the Balearic archipelago, Formentera and its little more than 80 km² surrounded by a topaz sea and white sand does not usurp its reputation: as soon as we get off the ferry (the only way to access the island), we are convinced that we are arriving in one of the last paradises of the Mediterranean. It is not without reason that the hippie wave that swept through Ibiza in the 1960s continued to make its way here and found Formentera a fertile ground. The followers of a return to the land fell in love with its Caribbean-like beaches, its whitewashed villages and its windmills burnt by the sun, the direct and simple relationship of the inhabitants with the cultivation of the soil..

If a certain bohemian spirit has survived from that time, which can be found in the various hippie markets of the island, Formentera now attracts holidaymakers who are looking for calm and closeness to nature, but also for privacy and quality gastronomic experiences. So, we propose a short detour to the unspoiled shores of beautiful Formentera, the ultimate southern European Eden, constantly bathed in radiant light.

First encounter with Formentera: the north

Whether you are visiting the island for the first time or for the hundredth time, it is always at La Savina that you land. And always with the same delight. The ballet of ferries, sumptuous private yachts and sailing boats from another era is incessant here, giving the port a rhythm all its own. As pleasant as the tempo is in autumn or spring, the flood of tourists taking day trips from Ibiza (which is only 30 minutes away) is impressive in the height of summer. But even then, the small port village of La Savina, nestled between two saltwater lagoons, retains a relaxed charm, something a little out of time, with, stretched out under the arcades, its stores for necessities or souvenirs, its typical cafés, its hotels with a marine theme and some excellent restaurants!

Recently renovated, the semi-pedestrian promenade along the harbor is home to a small market of handicrafts, clothing and fashion accessories produced locally by talented artists or sourced from other latitudes during the winter. La Savina is also a natural starting point for all kinds of sea outings: scuba diving excursions and visits to the small island of S'Espalmador in particular, renowned for its wild and beautiful shores.

Let's explore the area a bit, shall we? The northern coast of Formentera is a string of remarkable beaches. Cavall d'en Borràs, Llevant, Sa Roqueta, but the most outstanding is undoubtedly Ses Illetes, which you reach once you have passed the salt flats with their sweet pink reflections. An authentic postcard straight out of the Caribbean, the shade of blue of the sky blending into that of the sea as well as the absolute whiteness of the sand (and what can we say about its fineness?) will make you wonder: how did I end up in the tropics... in the middle of Europe?

Taking the walk a little further, you will discover the peninsula of Es Trucador, which is a long tongue of sand running north, towards the marine reserve called Dels Freus. What an amazing sight to see the sea coming in on either side of the path, lined on the left and on the right with beaches all more beautiful than the others! On the way, look up to enjoy the panoramic view of Ibiza.

Another notable point on the north coast is the seaside resort of Es Pujols. It is the most animated and openly touristy urbanization on the island, and therefore one of the most recommended places to party until noon in high season. A popular vacation spot for Italians, this tourist aspect does not take away from the charm of the seaside promenade (a small market is held here every evening in summer) or the fishing village atmosphere that is so characteristic of Formentera. Es Pujols is home to a large number of hotels and restaurants with a wide range of standards: from small Italian cantinas to high-class restaurants on the roof tops of luxury hotels. It is also a good base for kayaking, windsurfing or catamaran sailing.

The West Coast

This part of the territory is certainly the most rural and the most unchanged of the island. It stretches roughly from the Punta de Sa Pedrera to the Cape of Barbaria, the southernmost point of Formentera, where the "Barbarians" lighthouse stands. If there are a few sensational restaurants and charming rural hotels scattered here and there, it's a safe bet that the first thing you'll come to do here is to enjoy a good dose of wonder on the beach of Cala Saona. In addition to being the only beach on the west coast - the rest of the coastline here is made up of steep, majestic ochre cliffs - this natural bay rolled up with light sand dunes is one of the most beautiful beaches on the island! Although it is very crowded in summer, it remains calm and pleasant, even when it is very busy. Don't forget to bring your diving goggles, just to say hello to the no less populous marine fauna, evolving in turquoise water that will once again make you doubt your real geolocation!

The other reason to go to this part of the island is contemplative. The southern part of this territory is indeed particularly wild: by taking the road that leads to the Cape of Barbaria, you will enjoy a breathtaking landscape parade. The arid expanses, protected by low stone walls, are spiked in all directions with the phantasmagorical and infinitely long arms of fig trees, which have become symbols of Formentera over time. As you go south, the vegetation becomes less abundant and gives way to a much more mineral world. At the southernmost point, the road ends and rock finally reigns supreme. If Formentera has the almost systematic effect of plunging its visitors into a feeling of timelessness at the same time as in an acute awareness of the present moment, this feeling culminates here.

This vast, depopulated, almost polar steppe, running valiantly to the sea and inviting the men who walk it to imagine the outlines of Africa in the distance, is a place conducive to dreaming and meditative silence. The regular flashes of the lighthouse are here the only temporal standard.

The two villages of the interior

If the coasts are real jewels open to the Mediterranean, the rural interior is no less appreciable for its beauty. The wheat fields stretch out their summer blondness behind low dry stone walls. Bucolic paths, along the fields of crops or in the fresh bocage of a pine forest, invite you to walk or cycle.

In the heart of this rural setting, there are two small towns, which are rallying points for the entire island community. Formentera has been able to cultivate over the generations a certain urban lifestyle that is very pleasant.

You can enjoy the best of modern life in Sant Francesc Xavier, the capital of Formentera, and in San Ferran se Ses Roques, a neighboring town that was once a meeting point for hippie communities. Sant Francesc, a small village of brilliant white with a population of 1,600, has a charm all its own. Elegant, the immaculate monolithic church enthroned in the center of the main square planted with palm trees is probably not for nothing. All around, there are terraces lined with flowery pergolas, joyfully animated in the morning, lazy (or even totally deserted) in the afternoon, then alive again when night falls! It is a real enchantment to let oneself be carried with the nose to the wind in the picturesque lanes of the old center. There are some very good restaurants, stores with just the right amount of hype and also some good accommodation addresses, such as the Es Marès hotel. The only 4-star hotel in town and a true haven of peace with sober and clear tones in harmony with the colors of the island, it constitutes an elegant back base in the heart of the city. The terrace serves hearty breakfasts based on local products, as well as brunches, lunches and dinners. Add to this a private parking lot, the warm and human welcome of a reception open 24 hours a day, a gym and a splendid spa (the Natura Bisée brand of care is exclusively honored here): the count is good!

The other unmissable town, Sant Ferran de Ses Roques, is quite simply the former cradle of hippie culture. To follow in the psychedelic footsteps of the movement, go to the top of the old town center, not far from the 18th century church: it's through the mythical Fonda Pepe (a café-restaurant that has been in its original state for centuries) that some of the most famous names of the movement have passed through, such as Led Zeppelin, Bob Dylan or Pink Floyd. More contemporary, but in the same vein, the island's artists exhibit their creations during the season: unique paintings, drawings and sculptures made in Formentera. Particularly active culturally, the community of Ses Roques organizes many concerts and plays in summer, and the evenings are often memorable! The restaurants in the town are also varied and very good, but there is also a string of cheerful terraces where you can easily get to know your tablemates.

To the east !

A long road draws its concrete in a straight line from the heart of the island to the rocky plateau of the extreme east of the territory. On either side of this long strip of land, which runs from the tip of Corb Marí to the cliffs of La Mola, there is the Migjorn area to the south and the Tramuntana to the north. To make the most of this part of the territory, which is made up of long, calm, sandy beaches lined with pine trees and beautiful rocky coves with crystal-clear water, we recommend you take an adventure along the paths that run left and right from the main road. If your goal is to get some sun, the rule in Formentera is simple: find out where the wind blows, so you can choose the right side for the day! Note in passing that the coast of Migjorn is full of chiringuitos (those famous musical beach bars perfectly integrated into the scenery) more or less famous, where locals, seasonal workers and visitors usually meet for a happy aperitif when the sun goes down.

Just before the road reaches the plateau of La Mola, you will come across a small fishing hamlet that is still very authentic and that has developed around a natural port embedded in the rock - between Ses Platgetes and Es Racó de Sa Pujada - called Es Caló de Sant Agustí. Once the second largest natural harbor in Formentera, the harmony of shapes and materials has been preserved. Here: no building blocks or ugly constructions. Instead, there are wide stretches of rocky outcrops hemmed in by clear sand, itself caressed by turquoise water. The atmosphere is calm, which makes it an ideal resort for couples and families. We recommend the human-sized complex Sa Cala Suites, perfectly integrated into the setting: located 100 meters from the beach of Es Caló, it houses a total of twenty elegant studios and fully equipped apartments (with swimming pool and private gardens) with a successful Mediterranean style! To eat, we recommend the famous Can Pasqual, in the building next door. Opened in 1964 by the father of the current owner, this mythical address seduces locals and visitors alike in search of authentic cuisine. Its distinguished decor is inspired by the typical boats of the island's fishermen. On the plate, we propose a meeting between the traditional island know-how, more modern cooking techniques and local products km 0 of an incredible freshness (meat, fish, seafood, arroces and paellas!). Can Pasqual, open for lunch and dinner, is a concentrate of the essence of the land of Formentera!

Not far away, another Caló is worth a visit: the Caló d'Es Mort! A cove that is as tiny as it is beautiful, which some people do not hesitate to classify as the most beautiful beach on the island. You will only have a few meters to stretch your towel in this small panorama of exception, then arrive early! Then follow the zigzagging road up to Pilar de La Mola. On the way, stop and take a look over your shoulder, the view of the island, stretched out below, is breathtaking. At the top, a thick forest of Aleppo pines marks the entrance to the city at the end of the world, protected by the lighthouse of La Mola. Here again, there is no shortage of good shopping and restaurant addresses. But it is especially the famous hippie market (Wednesday and Sunday in season) that attracts the crowds here. The articles are really well worked out and the musical animations of quality! It is in this good-natured and vaguely timeless atmosphere that you will be surprised to smile blissfully, for the simple pleasure of being there.

FUTURE INFO

When to visit?

Formentera can be visited at any time of the year: Ibiza's little sister enjoys a lot of sunshine throughout the year. The light in March, April and May is particularly beautiful, as is the Indian summer, which runs from mid-September to mid-November. The temperatures are also rather mild in late winter/early spring.

Duration

Due to its proximity and small size, Formentera can be visited in a few days. If a long weekend is not enough to really disconnect, plan a week or even 10 days of travel! If you plan ahead, you will find very interesting accommodation rates!

Budget

If Formentera is not the cheapest island of the Balearic Islands, far from it, it remains nevertheless affordable if you book your accommodation in advance! The trip itself will cost you between 150 and 250 € (plane to Ibiza + ferry to Formentera), a car rental around 50 € per day, a meal between 20 and 45 € and a night in a hotel around 90 €.

Public

Families, groups of friends, couples on vacation or solo travelers, Formentera meets all the criteria for all populations. Naturally, beach lovers will be delighted, as will food lovers who love the taste of the sea, as well as walkers and water athletes.

The advantages

- The proximity. Formentera is very easy to reach from France.

- A mild weather.

The minuses

- The language barrier. Quickly overcome however if you speak a little Spanish or English.

Getting there

To get to Formentera, unless you have your own boat, you will have to go through the island of Ibiza. There are many flights from France, but you can also get there by ferry (with your own vehicle if you wish). After landing on the white island, head for the small port in downtown Eivissa. From there, you will board a ferry. Two companies share this segment: Trasmapi and Mediterranea Pitiüsa. A boat leaves every half hour, from morning to night. Count a little less than 50 € per person for a round trip ticket. The crossing, which is very pleasant when there are no waves, takes about 30 minutes.

Get information

To get the best hotel rates, visit the Es Marès Hotel or Sa Cala Suites website. For the seafood restaurant Can Pasqual, go here.