The Ball Pagès tradition
The traditions of Formentera and Ibiza are so similar that one could almost speak of Siamese twin cultures. As a result, the Ball Pagès is as much a pillar of identity on Formentera as it is on Ibiza. An emblematic dance, the Ball Pagès is choreographed around repeated circular movements, with the man circling his partner, playing castanyoles (castanets about 15 cm long) while she strides forward, staring at the ground. In addition to their choreographic splendor, the Ball Pagès are distinguished by the splendor of the traditional costumes worn. The men are generally dressed in black and white, their waists marked with a wide belt, and a red cap hanging over their heads. As for the women, they wear long dresses, their hair covered with a veil and their emprendadas, a set of gold, silver or coral necklaces. Theemprendada accompanies the life of young girls, from first communion to puberty, the mother enriching it year after year with new jewels. True family treasures, these necklaces are passed down from generation to generation. The music accompanying the Ball Pagès is generally based on repetitive rhythms whose intensity builds to a crescendo.
Unique to Formentera, two variants of this traditional dance can be found on the island: llarga and curta. This dance is still often performed, especially during major festivities such as patron saint's days. Starting with Sant Joan, the Feast of St. John, celebrated on June 24, by far the most popular on the island - indeed, of all the territories where Catalan is spoken. All the ingredients, including Ball Pagès, are brought together to make this an unforgettable day. Another very popular festival is the Procession De La Mare De Déu Del Carme, held on July 16 in Es Pujols and La Savina, which celebrates the Mare de Déu del Carme, patron saint of the sea, with a procession of the icon of the Virgin, and a Ball Pagès, danced on a boat. There are also two other patronal festivals where the Ball Pagès is at the heart of the celebrations: Sant Francesc Xavier, on December 3, honoring the patron saint of Formentera's capital, and the Fêtes de Sant Ferran, on May 30, where processions, concerts, traditional dances and a craft market take over the streets.
Last but not least, the Festival of the Autonomous Community of the Balearic Islands, on March 1, is the perfect opportunity to sample Formentera's traditions, with its traditional dances, music, theater and gastronomy.
Cantades and caramelles
Les cantades, chansons narratives pourvues de rimes, élaborées selon la technique du cantar redoblat, sont également pratiquées durant les jours de fête, entre voisins et en famille, le plus souvent dans un cadre privé. Ces cantades, qui chantent l'amour et les récits personnels, sont encore interprétées par quelques passionnés et lors de festivités locales comme la Sant Jaume. Tous les 25 juillet, à Sant Francesc Xavier, cette célébration organisée en l'honneur du saint patron de l'île de Formentera est l'occasion d'écouter le traditionnel chant des cantades.
Les caramelles de Nadal, quant à elles, sont des chants religieux typiques d'Ibiza et de Formentera, qui résonnent dans les églises lors de la messe de Noël et du dimanche de Pâques. Castagnettes, espasi – un instrument typique des Baléares en forme d'épée –, flûte et tambour rythment la musique. Ces compositions traditionnelles ont d'ailleurs été déclarées « bien d'intérêt culturel » en 2005.
The current music scene
Formentera is a small island with a music scene to match. Here you'll find a number of local bands who, over time, have managed to make their mark outside the island too. One example is the folk group Aires Formenterencs, founded between 1988 and 1989 and distinguished by its use of traditional instruments such as castanets, flute andespasi. Led by Xumeu Joan, singer, guitarist and composer, the group represented the Pityuse Islands in the competition at the 1992 Universal Exhibition in Seville. Their island music sings of their attachment to the landscapes of Formentera, notably the song Visc a Formentera ("I live in Formentera"), released in 2008, one of their most popular tracks. In February 2012, the group was awarded the Ramon Llull prize by the Balearic government for their participation in the "traditional musical and literary base of the Pityuse Islands". One of the Balearic Islands' highest honors.
In a different register, Jah Chango, aka Rico Hartmann, son of the founder of the Blue Bar, Formentera's musical mecca, fuses rumba, reggae, cumbia and hip-hop.
As Ibiza's neighbor, Formentera also offers nights punctuated by electronic music. No superstars like David Guetta or legends like Carl Cox or DJ Harvey, but rather simple but effective deep beach house, accompanied by cocktails and warm sand. Popular venues for DJ sets include the Blue Bar on Platja Migjorn, Beso Beach on Playa de Cavall d'en Borràs with its "hippie chic" ambience, Can Vent in Es Pujols and Codice Luna in El Pilar de la Mola. Here you can hear balearic beat, a house music genre born in Ibiza in the 80s thanks to Paul Oakenfold, blending electronic music and psychedelic pop. Soft and soaring, it's the perfect accompaniment to a sunset on the beach!
