Xoriguer, a long history
Like all practices that eventually become traditions, gin-making on the island of Menorca is the fruit of an ancient history. Made to a recipe dating back to the early 18th century (1736 to be exact) in copper stills scarcely younger than the recipe itself, Menorcan gin is a craft affair. All of which has earned Xoriguer gin the "Gin de Maó" label as a product of geographical origin from the Bay of Maó. Nowadays, large quantities of this spirit are produced on the island and exported throughout Europe (Spain, Italy, France, Germany, Czech Republic, Denmark, Sweden, Holland, Switzerland, Andorra and England), as well as to America (USA, Chile and Peru), the Pacific (Australia and New Zealand) and even Asia (Japan, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and Taiwan), but it wasn't always so. Let's go back a few centuries.
More than three hundred years ago, the port of Maó was one of the most coveted enclaves for the major European naval powers, not only because of its strategic position in the Mediterranean, but also because of its colossal size. While the British have long been credited with the origins of Minorcan gin, recent research (by Alfons Méndez) has shed a different light on the subject. It would appear that there are documented records of Dutch origin of gin being made on Menorca in the 18th century, while on the UK side, there are no records of the practice. What is certain, however, is that the various European fleets calling at the port of Maó encouraged Menorca's master distillers to start producing geneva, the Menorcan name for gin, in the early 1700s. Indeed, it was these distillers who came up with the recipe for gin, a drink made from juniper berries and wine alcohol that became popular over the following centuries.
It was precisely this recipe, handed down from generation to generation for over 250 years, that Miguel Pons Justo, founder of Destilerías Xoriguer in 1945, took up again. He devoted many years of his life to working as administrator of the Fornero distillery, one of the oldest guardians of the Maó gin tradition. When the distillery was devastated by a fire in which its owner died, Pons decided to continue the work alone. However, while he didn't know the exact recipe for the gin, which was a secret of the Fornero family, he did know the products Fornero used and had a rough idea of quantities and proportions. So he set about carrying out a series of tests in a small still. In the end, he succeeded in fine-tuning his own recipe.
Equipped with his first barrels, Pons went to the Sant Joan festivities in Ciutadella in early summer 1945, and presented his product. It was a great success. He then decided to set up his workshops in the town of Maó, at number 91, Moll de Ponent, in the port area. His business expanded rapidly, and he gradually bought out not only the adjacent premises, but also other traditional distilleries (Mica, Son Petit and Beltrán) producing smaller volumes. Naturally, in this way, the brand consolidated its leading position in the Minorcan spirits landscape, and today is THE Minorcan gin with the distinctive bottle.
An iconic bottle
Before turning to the contents themselves, let's take a look at the container. It has to be said that the Xoriguer gin bottle is particularly recognizable: a brown (or emerald green) bottle with a small round handle at the base of the neck and a label depicting a mill. This little handle owes its existence to the days when wines and liqueurs were sold in bulk in containers called canecos. These were fitted with handles to make it easier to transport the liqueurs from the distilleries to the warehouses, where they were kept cool. The custom of using canecos continued until the 1980s, when standards for preserving and packaging beverages changed. Pons, in homage to these traditional canecos, decided to put his gin in brown glass bottles, but to keep the little handle as a wink.
Then, in the mid-1990s, the global crisis hit Menorca and many glass manufacturers were forced out of business. It was impossible to continue producing the famous brown glass bottle. Pons looked for an alternative and opted for the emerald green bottle, just as emblematic today, without removing the now iconic handle. And the traditional windmill on the label? What about it? Again, a wink. A nod to Miguel Pons Justo's family origins, descended from a line of millers from the Maó area. So, when asked to choose an image to represent his brand, he opted for a mill dating back to 1784: the Xoriguer mill. The one that helped so many generations of his family turn wheat into flour. The old mill became a symbol of tradition and quality.
Recipe secrets
Now that we have the container, let's take a closer look at what goes into it. Produced using an artisanal method known as theone-shot-method, firewood from Menorca is used to heat the stills, while seawater is used for cooling. The basic ingredients of the age-old Xoriguer gin recipe are: high-quality wine alcohol, juniper berries from the Catalan Pyrenees rested for several years, and the island's own spring water. These are distilled in copper stills with a capacity of 700 liters, over 250 years old, and then the precious spirit is recovered, ready for tasting. The result? A clear, transparent liquid made even more fluid by juniper essential oils. In terms of flavor, this is an aromatic beverage with notes of juniper, green wood and grass. Generous herbaceous aromas, nuanced with citrus notes and a zest of black pepper, give it its distinctive character.
How is Xoriguer gin drunk? Cocktail recipes are numerous, starting with the indestructible Gin&Tonic (gin, tonic, lemon zest and mint leaf). The floral version is also recommended (gin, chamomile liqueur and orange zest), as is the effective Menorca Sling cocktail (gin, herb liqueur, lemon juice, cane syrup and cherry jam) or the Minorca (gin, limoncello, orange juice and rosemary-flavored flower honey). It's impossible not to mention THE emblematic Menorcan cocktail, consumed in large quantities by the island's inhabitants during traditional festivals and the famous jaleos (spectacular equestrian festivities) and named Pomada (gin, lemon juice, lemonade, fresh mint and ice cubes). Xoriguer has also released its own version of the pomada: christened Pomada Xoriguer, the beverage has sweet juniper and lime-like citrus notes. The bottle is particularly attractive. The brand also offers a wide range of liqueurs: chamomile, rose, aniseed, mint, cocoa, coffee and many more...
Online store and guided tours
The good news is that if you've run out of the Xoriguer gin you brought back from the island, there's a solution. Since spring 2020, the brand has decided to strengthen its commercial offering with the launch of a comprehensive online store: botigaxoriguer.com. The catalog is indeed very broad, with products ranging from the classic Xoriguer gin to the most varied and contemporary drinks: wines, liqueurs, oils and of course the classic Minorcan Pomada. All in all, over 400 quality references can be sent anywhere in the world thanks to an efficient and careful delivery system. An ideal solution for those who want to avoid breakage during the journey! In other words, there's something to suit every taste and every budget. It is also possible to go directly to the physical points of sale. One is located in downtown Maó (Plaça del Carme), the other in the port of Maó.
Another option for the curious is to take a guided tour of the Xoriguer workshop facilities. To find out all about the secrets of this emblematic gin, from its recipe dating back to 1736 to its unique taste to its artisanal production method (the same for 75 years now), head for the port of Maó, at 91 Plateforme Poniente. There are two options here. The first option is the full tour, which includes an explanation of the history of Xoriguer gin and the distillery, a visit to the workshops with a tour of the stills and a gin-making demonstration, a tour of the second floor of the distillery to understand in detail how the juniper berries are selected and prepared, a visit to the store to discover all the distillery's products, and finally a tasting of distillery products accompanied by other typical island products. Alternatively, you can go directly to the distillery and see for yourself the stills area - where the gin is made - followed by the store, where tastings are organized - all free of charge! Guided tours are also available for groups of 10 or more. To do so, go to xoriguer.es/visitas-guiadas. Happy tasting!
