The vineyard and its history
The Jura vineyard stretches over a strip of land more than 80 km long, north-south with a stronger concentration in the north, the south being more fragmented, a link between the plain and the first plateau (western foothills). The Gauls referred to this fertile land as " Ar Bos " which became Arbois. During the Middle Ages, the religious communities used the land for rituals, but especially for passing guests, especially since the White Gold (salt) routes were very busy. François I, Henri IV, Philippe II of Spain appreciated it. The turbulence of History will be felt, in the 19th century the vineyard will undergo the most important transformations. From 20,000 hectares, phylloxera at the end of the century reduced it to 5,000 hectares, ruining many families. In spite of state aid, competition from southern wines did not bring about the expected revival. The two world wars had a negative impact, and the winegrowers were not spared. Since the 1970's, the Jura has been following a coherent development policy, showing a fierce desire to produce high quality wines, a selection has been made: today, those who have bet on the quality of the five grape varieties that make up the richness and complexity of these wines remain.
The vineyard and its AOC
The Jura vineyards comprise 4 geographical AOCs (Arbois, Château-Chalon, Étoile and Côtes-du-Jura) and 3 product AOCs (Macvin, Crémant and Marc).
Arbois gave its name to the first AOC in France (and the world!) on May 15, 1936. It covers 850 hectares in production, extending somewhat over the villages of Mesnay, Vadans, Villette, Les Arsures and above all Montigny and Pupillin. Since 1970, Pupillin has been allowed to associate its name with that of Arbois in the AOC.
The Château-Chalon AOC covers 50 hectares in four communes: Château-Chalon, Nevy-sur-Seille, Ménétru-le-Vignoble and Domblans. Only one grape variety is allowed, Savagnin, and it is inspected on the vine before the date of harvest is announced, which comes very late. If the grapes analysed in the vineyard do not have all the expected characteristics, and in particular the required minimum of 12 degrees, the commission declares them downgraded. Depending on the year, between 1,100 and 1,400 hectolitres benefit from this appellation.
AOC l'Étoile is the land of white wines par excellence. Today, some fifteen winegrowers look after the 80 hectares of vines in production in the four communes of the AOC, northwest of Lons-le-Saunier.
Since 1937, Côtes-du-Jura has been the most diversified generic appellation running north-south, covering 722 ha. The wine route runs through 60 villages. Only lands rigorously selected for their geological characteristics and their chemical and organic structures are entitled to the appellation. A new generation of winegrowers, concerned with the quality and character of their wines, is turning to biodynamic viticulture.
Since 1992, AOC Macvin du Jura has belonged to the exclusive French club of AOC mistelles (or liqueur wines), made from grape brandy rather than wine. It results from blending the must of grapes selected at the press (2/3) with Jura marc aged in oak barrels for a minimum of 18 months (1/3). Titres range from 16° to 22°. With fresh melon garnished with a thin slice of smoked ham, or reduced caramel to enhance foie gras, it will accompany gingerbread cooled with vanilla ice cream. With Crémant, it makes an excellent aperitif.
Next comes Crémant-du-Jura (AOC). By the 18th century, Jura winegrowers had mastered the technique of making sparkling wines, and "Mousseux", or méthode champenoise, was already being consumed. The Crémant du Jura A.O.C. was awarded in 1995. All Jura grape varieties can be used in its composition. For the white, a minimum of 50% Chardonnay; for the rosé, 50% Pinot or Poulsard. Serve at 6°C. Crémant du Jura is an ideal accompaniment to any meal, from aperitif to dessert, especially with strong cheeses.
The latest of the Jura AOCs, marc is an amber-colored eau-de-vie subject to strict specifications. Made from Jura's historic grape varieties, marc consists of everything that remains after the juice has been selected: skins, pips and stalks. After fermentation, the marc is distilled in a still. It is then aged under wood for at least two years.
Grape varieties and their typicality
Wines grown in the Jura come from a variety of grape varieties: Poulsard, Trousseau, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Savagnin. These grape varieties give Jura wines their distinctive character. Here's a quick overview.
First, poulsard or ploussard (the capital is Pupillin). This is a very local grape variety, covering just over 20% of the vineyard, or 80% of the red grape varieties, mainly in the northern part of the vineyard, and thriving on oily soils of blue marl and shale. It's a subtle, nuanced, plural wine. The range of colors and aromas varies with vinification, ripening, vintage and age; over the years, a lovely tile-like hue emerges. Blended with pinot and trousseau, it can produce particularly interesting blends. To bring out the flavors of a quiche or fish dish, to round out a Morteau sausage or mountain charcuterie, or for exotic dishes, choose a chilled Poulsard.
A typical Jura grape variety, Trousseau draws its power and delicacy from red marl covered with gravel. Montigny-les-Arsures is its capital. A few years of ageing have given its tannins time to soften, round out and balance. It is available on its own or as a blend. It goes well with grilled meats or small game in sauce, and cheeses such as Morbier.
Adopted by Jura winegrowers as early as the 14th century, pinot noir accounts for only a small percentage of grape varieties (less than 10% of reds). It is grown as a single grape variety, the terroir giving this variety a very different typicity from the other vineyards in which it is grown, such as Burgundy, where it is frequently blended with Trousseau and Ploussard, bringing its tannic structure, aromatic richness and precious color. A perfect accompaniment to poultry, tuna or grilled salmon.
Chardonnay is the popular grape variety that has acclimatized to the Jura and acquired a marked typicity. It accounts for almost 50% of the Jura vineyards. It thrives on chalky scree and light soils, and winegrowers keep the yields of this generous variety under control. Each terroir, each plot of land, offers a different interpretation. It can be made in three different ways. The first consists in not topping up (filling the barrel regularly to compensate for evaporation), which leads to ageing the wine "under veil" as for vin jaune, giving it a "taste of yellow", typical of the Jura. The second favors the expression of the grape variety associated with the terroir: ageing in vats, tuns or barrels, and topping up, enable the search for fatness and primary aromas. The result is more floral, fruitier whites, in the Burgundian style. Combined with savagnin (the proportion of savagnin varies from 5% to 40%), it brings roundness. Floral Jura wines are ideal for quiche, cheese soufflé, gratin or grilled fish, or creamy pan-fried snails, crayfish or even scallops...
Finally, Savagnin. The sovereign grape of the Jura, it is the only variety that gives rise to the famous yellow wine. It accounts for just over 15% of Jura vineyards (300 hectares out of the 2,000 that make up the AOC). It thrives on blue, grey or black marl, covered with limestone. A late-ripening variety, it withstands the first frosts to be harvested in the last days of the harvest. It is used to make a vast range of aromatic wines, alone or in blends, toasted or not. It can be found in Savagnin varietal wines after three or four years' barrel ageing, or blended with Chardonnay, to which it brings its strength to complement the roundness of the former. Its aromas of walnut, curry and almond make it a perfect match for creamy fish or meat, traditional Comtois and blue-veined cheeses, poultry with morels, and exotic cuisine.
Yellow wine, the gold of the Jura
Vin jaune is a dry white wine made from a single grape variety, Savagnin. Not to be confused with Vin de Paille, a sweet wine made from several grape varieties. It undergoes a specific ageing process. Once fermentation is complete, it is kept in oak barrels for a minimum of 6 years and 3 months, without racking or "ouillage" (the action of topping up the barrel with wine, thus compensating for natural evaporation). A natural veil of yeast is created on the surface of the wine, protecting it from contact with the surrounding air. Yeast gives wine the organoleptic characteristics so characteristic of this noble product. Vin jaune is only available in specially-shaped 62-cl glass bottles (one liter of grape juice is reduced to 62 cl when aged). A bright, limpid golden color, with aromas of walnut, spice and white-fleshed fruit, this powerful wine is a perfect accompaniment to an old Comté cheese, a cassolette of snails, poularde aux morilles, foie gras or simply as an aperitif.
Vin de paille, another typical Jura wine
Vin de paille, a sweet wine, has nothing to do with vin jaune. A sweet wine ranging from 14.5° to 17°, it requires 100 kilos of fresh grapes to yield 15 to 18 liters. In the early days of the harvest, the best bunches of ploussard, chardonnay or savagnin grapes are picked, choosing the healthiest ones to pass the passerillage test (a winemaking technique for enriching grapes with sugar through concentration). The grape loses its volume in water and concentrates in sugar without rotting. The bunches are laid out in a well-ventilated room on wooden or wire racks - which have replaced the straw of yesteryear. Over the course of weeks - or even months - the fruit loses its water, concentrating sugar and aroma. When the sugar concentration of the berries exceeds 306 g/litre, it is pressed in early January, and fermentation can last up to two years. However, three years of ageing are necessary. It's a perfect accompaniment to foie gras or spiced duck breast, as well as blue-veined cheeses and candied desserts, but it also melts with chocolate.
