Roman and Byzantine Heritage
Inhabited since Neolithic times, Istria became Roman and then Byzantine. Very early on, religious buildings were erected throughout the region. Stonework carved with ornamental motifs, notably interlacing, is characteristic of the High Middle Ages. 1,500 churches testify to the long-standing dominance of Christianity. Their architectural simplicity often conceals splendid frescoes and ancient mosaics.
Pula is the heir to the region's Roman past. Near theChurch of St. Mary Formosa, the mosaic of Dirce's Punishment is one of its jewels. Perfectly preserved, it is one of the rarest representations of this mythological theme. The 2nd-century mosaic once adorned the floor of a Roman house. Animal motifs are associated with the myth of Dircé, who is punished for her cruel behavior towards Antiope. Here, to avenge their mother, Amphion and Zethos tie the penitent to a bull.
The legacy of Byzantium takes us to Poreč, to the Euphrasian Basilica, built on the ruins of an early 6th-century basilica. The mosaics in the apse are considered masterpieces of Byzantine art. In the choir, Christ, surrounded by his apostles, holds a book in his hand. The Virgin and Child enthroned majestically on the vault. Byzantine influence can be seen in the exterior and interior mosaics of the Church of the Holy Trinity and St. Spiridion in Trieste. In the same city, on the San Giusto hill, the cathedral was built in the5th century in place of a Roman temple. The presbytery's 12th-century mosaic has stood the test of time.
Gothic, Venetian, Classical and Baroque art
From the 17th to 18th centuries, Baroque reigned more strongly in northern Croatia. The 15th century witnessed the transformation of rural Istria, where places of worship abounded. The impoverishment of medieval churches is reflected in their furnishings and stonework. Their creation was entrusted to itinerant craftsmen, sculptors and painters. They were led by the tertiary priests based in Koper, who placed great importance on popular themes. They not only spread the Gospel, but also Glagolitic script, whose engraved letters can be found everywhere.
The collections of the Regional Museum of Koper, the largest museum in Slovenian Istria, range from prehistory to the present day. The Venetian period is richly represented. In Slovenia, the Church of the Holy Trinity in Hrastovlje houses unique frescoes from the late Middle Ages and Renaissance. The vast cycle of paintings by Vincent de Kastav includes rare themes such as the Magi among traditional subjects, alongside pragmatic scenes from rural life about grain prices, protection against disease and natural disasters.
Trieste has established itself as one of Italy's most unique art cities. You'll find its historic works of art all along your stroll. In front of the Town Hall, a monumental 18th-century sculpture is arranged around four classical figures symbolizing the continents known at the time. But the Fountain of the Four Continents (or Fontana del Mazzoleni) is above all an ode to the city's activity as a merchant port.
Modern and contemporary
The Dušan Džamonja Sculpture Park (Orsera-Vrsar, Croatia) invites visitors to discover the artist, born in Strumica in 1928. Trained in Zagreb, Dušan Džamonja had his first solo exhibition in 1954. As early as 1970, he began building his own studio and home. Fifty years of innovative approaches to traditional materials, such as stone and metal, are recounted in this park. The sculptor's quest was to achieve a balance between abstract work and nature in a dynamic spatial exchange. Free and outdoors!
To take the pulse of regional art since 1950, head for the Museum of Contemporary Art of Istria in Pula. Open to all cultures, the MSUI provides an essential platform for creative artists. In 2023, for example, the retrospective of works by painter Zoran Franjić was a major event. In addition to museums, a number of galleries offer their vision of the current scene. In Trieste, the LipanjePuntin gallery has been championing contemporary art for over twenty-five years: video, performance, painting and photography.
Founded in 1974, the public institution Obalne galerije comprises six contemporary art galleries, three in Piran, two in Koper and one in Venice. The Piran gallery features geometric landscapes and nudes by photographer Jake Jeraša, born in Ljubljana in 1953.
Award-winning painter Marko Zubak (b. 1979) exhibits his work exploring urban environments at the Rovinj Heritage Museum. With a semi-abstract style, he plays with texture and emptiness to deconstruct the landscape and propose a new reality.
Street side
Given Istria's climate, art takes to the streets, not least at festivals. In summer, Poreč's alleyways and parks play host to performances, installations and projections. The Street Art Festival is a time for exchange between artists from near and far. Graffiti artists explore every theme: science, religion, sociology and social issues. Another city, another spirit: in Rovinj, living art is on display not only in the narrow cobbled streets, but also in the countless workshop-shops. Among the portraitists and caricaturists, it's not out of the question to unearth tomorrow's revelation.
The pursuit of public art leads to the less popular village of Vodnjan, 12 km from Pula. Its medieval alleyways and stone houses are the scene of a profusion of colors. At the crossroads of eras, frescoes and graffiti are sure to surprise visitors to this picturesque village.
The city of Trieste has chosen to enhance its neighborhoods through art. Launched in 2016, the Chromopolis project encourages residents not only to reclaim their surroundings, but also to rediscover certain spaces. Although the focus is on the suburbs, to date several central sites have undergone a revival by inviting big names in the business: La Lanterna in Pedocin, the Grezar and Nereo Rocco stadiums, Borgo San Sergio and the Altura skatepark. When art takes on its full meaning in everyday street life.
