Direction Patras, the fourth largest city in Greece and capital of the Peloponnese. A peninsula like no other, "cut off" from the mainland since the Corinth Canal was dug in 1893. If you're coming from Athens, make a stop there and take a look over this dizzying isthmus, spanned by a bridge
Exceptional cultural sites
Where to start? Of the 18 Greek sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List, 5 are in the Peloponnese. Today, as in the past, the region can be explored like an open-air history book. And if you like mythology, the island still echoes with the exploits of Heracles - Hercules for the Romans - as it is here that he accomplished seven of his twelve legendary labours. Will you climb the 857 steps leading to the citadel of Palamedes? If you were told that there is a city in the Peloponnese with an Italian flavour, overlooked by a fortress and located only a few kilometres from beautiful beaches and ancient sites such as Epidaurus and Mycenae, would you believe us? This city is strategic. Nafplio was the first capital of Greece, in 1829. It has been the object of the covetousness that has shaped Greek history: the Byzantines, the Franks and the Venetians. Then came the Turks and again the Italians, and again the Turks in 1715. Three levels of construction remain from this past: the old town, Acronauplia and the citadel of Palamede. Its alleys and mazes of steps lead sometimes to a small square, sometimes to a neoclassical house or an ancient mosque. But all the paths end on the seafront, watching the sun drown in the bay
Culture but also idleness
It is recommended to get up early to arrive at Epidaurus, meaning at the opening of the site (8am). After visiting the theatre, you will spend the rest of the morning in the ruins of the sanctuary, one of the most beautiful of Greco-Roman antiquity. Listed by Unesco, it is one of the most visited sites in Greece: in the heart of the beautiful Argolid, the ancient sanctuary of the god of medicine, Asclepius, is of great archaeological interest. The stadium, the tholos, the temple of Asclepius and its monuments are very well presented. 30 minutes from Nafplio, not far from Epidaurus, are the archaeological sites of Mycenae and Tirynthe. In Mycenae, you will discover, through the ruins, architectural treasures ranking Mycenae as one of the most beautiful sites in Greece. The Lioness Gate alone attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists from all over the world every year.
And if you want to enjoy the sea a little, make a detour to Tolo. At the end of a long sandy beach, this seaside resort occupies a beautiful site sheltered by the promontory of Asini, the islands of Romvi and Plateia
The grandiose Mystra, an architectural wonder
Next stop is the ancient Byzantine capital of the Morea, Mystra. Located at the foot of the magnificent Mount Taygetos, this site is truly grandiose. Remember its name: the Frankish lord William II of Villehardouin was the architect of this magical place. Considering the strategic position of the hill, he seized it and built a castle before it fell to the Greeks. Start at the upper town and its castle built by the Villehardouins, then go down to the lower town and pass through the Pandanassa Monastery, the Perivleptos Monastery and the Vrondohion Monastery. This group of Byzantine monasteries and the fortress that overlooks them are architectural jewels, wonderfully preserved. They formed a kind of autonomous republic in the Byzantine period. Mystra occupies a privileged place in Byzantine civilization and art. It has been compared to Florence. And even today, the religious buildings, completely renovated, remain a pure marvel of architecture.
Old town, panoramas and grilled fish
But let's not forget the sea. In Mystra, you are 80 km from Monemvassia, which is about 2 hours drive. Head for the southern tip of the peninsula in south-eastern Laconia and its Byzantine and Venetian citadel on a rock beaten by the sea. The old town, forbidden to vehicles, invites you to walk under the archway and through its cobbled streets. There are no beaches here: the courageous use ladders attached to the rocks. Take a swim or stroll through the old town and climb to the top of the citadel for a wonderful view. Another option, just as dazzling, is to head for the Magne. If you push on to Cape Tenaro, you will have reached, for some, the southernmost point of mainland Greece. Enjoy it: after a road with many curves and increasingly spectacular panoramas, wild and bristling with towers, you will discover Gerolimenas with wonder. Enjoy a grilled fish or octopus salad on the terrace of this small fishing port nestled at the end of a harbour. Here, the key word is serenity. The people are very welcoming and visitors are few. Bring your mask and snorkel: the sea bed promises wonders!
Dream beaches, parties and good wine
No question of leaving the coast. It's time to go to Kalamata, the capital of Messinia and the second city of the Peloponnese after Patras. Razed after an earthquake in 1986 and rebuilt in two years, this city has no cachet. However, it is worth a stop for its nightlife on the waterfront and its beaches. And Kalamata is also famous for its vineyards, figs, olives and wines. It's a great base for eating, sleeping and sightseeing in the region. For example, don't miss the Ancient Messene, 30 km from the city: this very green archaeological site is one of the most beautiful, but also one of the least known in Greece. Between two swims on its long sandy beaches, you can also turn a few pages of history: that of the battle of Navarin or of Homeric Greece, by visiting the palace of Nestor, one of the heroes of theIliad and theOdyssey...
Olympia, ancient stadium and cradle of the Olympic Games
It's time to run to Olympia. Today, as in the past, the region is like an open-air history book. A few months before each edition of the Olympic Games, summer and winter, an Olympic flame lighting ceremony takes place in Olympia on the site of the ancient temple of Hera, the site where the first ancient Games were held around 776 BC. This is certainly one of the most spectacular - and popular - sites you'll see in Greece. Ideally, you should try to visit in the off-season. The cradle of Olympism has some magnificent remains. Classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1989, the site comprises three main areas: the sanctuary, its annexes (used for training and welcoming VIP guests) and of course the sports facilities themselves. The stadium is undoubtedly the highlight of the visit. No one can resist the urge to take a (short) sprint there...
There's plenty to do and learn in Olympia. Don't forget its archaeological museum, of pure beauty, which is one of the richest in the country. Its 12 halls present the discoveries made in Olympia in chronological order. Room 8 is dedicated to the museum's masterpiece, Praxiteles' statue of Hermes, made of Paros marble. It comes from the temple of Hera on the site and is generally attributed to the great Athenian sculptor Praxiteles (4th century BC). It represents Hermes, the messenger of the gods, who carries the child Dionysus, son of Zeus and Semele, to the nymphs, to protect him from the jealousy of the goddess Hera
If the loop is almost complete, you are not at the end of your surprises. Going back up the coast, you can stop near Kilini. Go up to the Frankish castle of Hlemoutsi, perched at an altitude of 226 m on a hill overlooking the sea. It offers an incomparable panorama of the Ionian islands. And already the idea of a new trip
Useful information
When is the best time to visit? Between the high temperatures (over 30°C) in summer and the cold spells (even snow) in winter, we try to favour the sunny mildness of autumn or spring. These periods attract fewer tourists and the prices are also lower.
How to get there. Patras is about 200 km from Athens.
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