Typical festivals
The Fires of Saint John: focs de la sant joan
The night of St. John's Day, celebrated on June 23, is an unmissable event, with bonfires lighting up the night of the summer solstice. It all begins on the Sunday before St. John the Baptist's Day with the "Trobada del Canigó": starting from the refuge des Cortalets, men, women and children in their hundreds begin the ascent of Canigó, singing traditional songs and carrying branches, bundles of wood or even simple twigs in their hands. Each bundle represents a Catalan village from the north and south. Inside each one, wishes are slipped in, written on small pieces of paper, and then placed one by one around the Canigó cross. The symbolism is very strong, as the building of this huge pyre is only possible with the cohesion of all and of an entire people who will be reunited once again on this magical night. On June 22, three young mountain dwellers take a torch and a bit of flame from the fire that has been kept burning since 1964 at the Casa Païral (at the foot of the Castillet in Perpignan). They then make their way to the summit of Canigó, setting the huge wooden mound ablaze at the final stroke of midnight. Perched at an altitude of 2,764 metres, the light is visible, like a beacon, from hundreds of kilometers away. Immediately, runners, field lamps in hand, race down the slopes of the sacred mountain, distributing the flame to torchbearers who set off in all directions, stopping in each village to light the Saint John's Day bonfires to the applause and "vivas" of the locals. As if by magic, you can follow the progress of this flame which, minute by minute, illuminates all the peaks of the Catalan Pyrenees, as well as stadiums and squares. Seen from above, the Catalan countryside resembles an immense starry sky, culminating in the return of the sacred fire to Perpignan. Here, experienced climbers scale the 30 m façade of the Castillet, carrying a flaming torch on their backs to light the cauldron at the top of the building. In this way, the Catalan people come full circle, sealing their unity in joy and peace, like a promise renewed every year. St. John's Day is much more than just a traditional religious festival; it's also a special night for picking magic herbs. Don't forget to pick the four sacred plants (thorn, immortelle, St. John's wort and walnut) to make up the "ramallet de bonaventura" and offer it to your loved ones as a good-luck charm. It is said to protect homes and their occupants. This flame, which expresses the fraternity between peoples, is so important that, since 2010, the Generalitat de Catalunya has declared "Sant Joan" a "festa nacional dels països catalans" (National Holiday of the Catalan Countries).
Christmas with a twist
Catalan nativity scenes have a little extra... Take a close look at the ones you'll see on display during the Christmas season. Haven't you noticed anything special? Yes, you've seen the little figure crouching in the corner of these Nativity scenes. He's the famous Caganer, literally "the pain in the ass". You're not dreaming, he's actually defecating. This unusual santon, traditionally dressed in Catalan costume, symbolizes prosperity and repels bad omens. What's more, his droppings make the soil fertile, thus improving future harvests. It also serves as an explicit reminder that all men are equal when it comes to biological functions. The figurine first appeared in the 17th century, but nowadays its appearance changes every year, ironically taking on the faces of politicians, artists and top sportsmen and women.
Sant Jordi festival
On April 23, the day of Sant Jordi (Saint George), Catalans celebrate love and books. On this day, men give their sweethearts a rose, and women give their sweethearts a book in return. It's a sort of Catalan Valentine's Day... with a cultural twist.
Sant Jordi was a Roman soldier born in Cappadocia (now Turkey) in the 3rd century. Serving under the emperor Diocletian, he is said to have been executed for refusing obedience. Such was the popularity of his cult that, over the years, legendary and fantastic stories have sprung up around his character. In many stories, he was martyred for being a Christian or for refusing to persecute Christians. It wasn't until the 11th century that the legend of the fight against the dragon appeared, and it too has a multitude of versions. Here's ours: a long, long time ago, a terrible dragon struck fear into the hearts of the inhabitants of a town called Silène or Montblanc. Only a daily offering of two lambs kept him calm, but at such a rate, the lambs ran out and the population had to resort to feeding him human beings. Every day, a person was chosen to be sacrificed. One day, when Jordi stopped off in the town, the only daughter of the king was the victim of a fatal fate. Seeing the beautiful young girl being led, in tears, before the dragon's lair to be devoured, his blood ran cold. Listening only to his courage and determination, he mounted his white horse, made the sign of the cross and brandished his long sword. After a fierce battle, the valiant knight slew the dragon. From the still-warm blood of the beast, which spilled onto the ground, a rosebush with red flowers grew, and Sant Jordi plucked one and offered it to the princess. This heroic deed, symbolizing the victory of Good over Evil, earned the knight sanctity and recognition as the patron saint of England and Catalonia. The tradition of offering a rose to one's beloved on April 23rd dates back to the 15th century, when Jordi became the patron saint of the city of Barcelona, and rose fairs were held to mark the occasion.
But why books? The custom dates back to 1926, when Valencian writer Vicent Clavel Andrés decided to hold a book festival. The first book festival was held on October 7. In 1930, the date was changed to April 23, in honor of Miguel de Cervantes and William Shakespeare, who both died on April 23, 1616. Since then, La Sant Jordi has been an important annual event in literary sales, with authors and publishers taking the opportunity to present their new releases. On this day, or more precisely on the weekend closest to April 23, a dense crowd of strollers strolls through the streets and squares of Perpignan, amidst the many stalls selling books and roses.
In 1995, UNESCO declared April 23 "World Book and Copyright Day", giving Sant Jordi its full meaning as the victory of knowledge over obscurantism, with the red rose symbolizing the blood of the dragon.
The sanch procession
A unique procession in France, attracting thousands of spectators every year, the procession has taken place in Perpignan every Good Friday since 1416. It symbolizes Christ's Way of the Cross on Good Friday, the day of his crucifixion. Don't be fooled by its folkloric aspects, for everything connected with the Holy Week and Passion celebrations has been perfectly governed and meticulously programmed for six centuries. At 3 p.m., a slow, silent procession of some 700 penitents sets off from the Church of St. James, wearing black Caparutxa (pointed conical hood) and often barefoot, carrying the heavy, imposing Mistéris (36 life-size representations of scenes from Christ's Passion) on their shoulders. At the head of the procession, the Régidor, dressed in red, sets the pace with his iron bell. The penitents march for almost 3 hours through the streets of the old town, passing by Saint-Jacques Cathedral before returning to their starting point. A must-see at least once in your life, whether you're a believer or not, for the very special atmosphere that emanates from the procession, making the crowd fall silent.
The castellers
"Força, Equilibri, Valor i Seny", in French: "De la force, de l'équilibre, du courage et de la sagesse", is the motto of these men who build human towers of harmonious geometry. Castellers, from the Catalan word "castell (castle), are builders of human towers with complex structures and different heights (some can reach the equivalent of a 5-storey building) that follow a precise code. Listed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO since 16 November 2010, this tradition, which is certainly the most meaningful in Catalan culture, dates back to the 15th century. It is a breathtaking participatory spectacle combining strength, agility and flexibility that usually takes place in a public square. More than just a festive event, it is a philosophy of life, a demonstration of cooperation, teamwork, solidarity, self-sacrifice, concentration, courage, physical and mental strength, where men, women and children, regardless of age, social origin and physical characteristics, are essential to the building of the edifice, each one having to trust the other before being a pillar in turn.
