Sesame of the desert in Tunisia, gateway to the wonders of the Sahara, Tozeur is a tourist resort and a base camp, rudimentary or very luxurious (4 and 5 stars abound in the tourist area), from where 4x4 tours start, with Berber guides enturbannés in their colourful cheches. The great adventure can begin.
Tozeur, an authentic and exciting spot
Main city of the Chotts region with 42 000 inhabitants, Tozeur did not wait for the development of tourism to make a name for itself. Already known in the Numidian period, it was above all, under the name of Thusuros (Berber queen who gave the idea of brick constructions, thus leaving the name of Tozeur), a border post of the Roman Empire marking the southern limit of the province of Africa. Evolving from surveillance zone to exchange zone, Tozeur became, in the 14th century, a very important market. After this period of prosperity, it will be severely affected by an epidemic in the 15th century. Today, Tozeur is, at the administrative level, the capital of the Djérid region and, at the tourist level, a rich and exciting destination.
As soon as you leave your main artery lined with shops and head off (on the left, looking at the oasis) towards the old quarters of the medina, you will discover an authentic and secret Tozeur.
In the commercial part of the city, the main street runs alongside the stalls and shops, as if in the middle of a permanent fair. It offers rugs, souvenirs, brass, clothing, cheques and stuffed dromedaries. At the end of this street, the police station. The typical yellow of Moorish architecture, the colours of the costumes, those of the vegetable stalls bathed in a unique light, bring an incredible charm to the landscape. The old quarter extends around the minaret and the most easterly mosque. It is an unsuspected world, a secret world where, far from hotels and souks, beats the heart of the city. The constructions here are low. Simple earthen huts, they can easily be dominated by multiple minarets, square or octagonal. The opulent and colourful market exposes the riches of Africa and the East: peppers, bongos, almonds. The change of scenery is total and the desert is reaching out to us.
The desert, a fascinating excursion
Southern Tunisia is sinking into the Sahara, of which it encompasses a small part. It is, from the point of view of landscapes, the most fascinating part of Tunisia. If you decide to give up the comfort of your seaside hotel for a few days to follow an expedition in the desert, you will understand that its three, four or five stars are nothing compared to the myriad of stars that the magic desert sky has in store for you. Landscape of shifting dunes shaped by the wind and rocky areas, the desert leaves no one indifferent. Many travel agencies (in Tunisia as in France) offer 4x4 excursions, stays in nomadic camps and even camps, most of which are organized from Douz. In the desert, the simoun (or semoum) blows in strong gusts. He pushes back the limits of the desert by throwing out sheaves of sand. When he catches a travelling caravan, he forces the camels to barrack (lie down) and the men to seek refuge from their animals and take refuge under their chèche (long cotton scarf).
Douz, the Sahel in all its splendour
More than Tozeur and Nefta with their lush palm groves, even more than El Faouar, a little further away and therefore more "Saharan", Douz is the great gateway to the Sahel in the western part of Tunisia. And if, from Djerba or Hammamet, it is easier to go to Tataouine, the desert is more distant and rocky. The preference therefore often goes to this destination, which is fairly easy to access by fully paved roads and where you can take your first steps in the real sandy desert. It is the magic without illusion, that of the palm trees, the seated camels waiting for the signal to leave and the call of this infinite, strangely attractive expanse.
A particular charm emerges from this city surrounded by sand and tropical trees, life is imbued with the silence of the desert and the people of Douz, inhabited by the beauty of these dunes, share a bewitching love for these lands full of an impalpable life. It is difficult to get rid of Douz, its disturbing atmosphere and the kindness of its inhabitants, apart from those who think tourists are cash cows. In Douz, it will also be necessary to visit the Sahara Museum, one of the latest museums in Tunisia. Dedicated to this immense golden space, we learn everything about fauna, flora, nomadic and oasis civilizations, crafts, etc.
Unforgettable excursions in the surroundings
Heading to Matmata is one of the most extraordinary excursions in the South. The old track linking Douz to Matmata is now paved along its entire length and you can easily use it: exactly 101 km between Douz and Matmata. Be careful, however, public transport does not yet have permission to travel it, so plan a significant detour for this route if you depend on it. Forbidden to rent, you will have to go with an agency or rent a 4x4.
Since 1996, the road has been paved up to Bir Soltane, then a track awaits you towards Ksar Ghilane. Unthinkable without a 4x4, this route cannot be covered any other way. Take the Matmata road, paved for 65 km, on the way the Tarzan coffee will be your only stop on this section. At the crossing, turn right towards Ksar Ghilane; about 80 km of very bad track, with sand passage. Passenger cars are prohibited. On the track, a Bir Soltane café, which connects all the tracks, is the essential stop on the way to Ksar Ghilane. It is a charming place with small shrubs where you can have a drink, buy souvenirs, or even sleep in a tent. You will be able to discover the identity photos of travellers who have passed through as well as an impressive number of business cards. The last fifteen kilometres are now paved, because at this point the track was really difficult. Count 2 hours 30, and it is finally the discovery of the oasis at the borders of the stone desert and at the foot of the Great Eastern Erg. Enjoy it, it won't last, there is even a small avenue lined with palm trees at the entrance of the oasis under construction. Ksar Ghilane California, when you hold us!
Finally, towards El Faouar. The photos you will bring back from Zaafrane, Ghidma, El Faouar and even Noueil will be the most typical Saharan photos of your trip. It's really another world... After Ghidma, you can turn left towards Sabria to get a little closer to the sand, after a stretch of water that, depending on the season, becomes a pond or lake. The sand sometimes passes over the road, which is regularly cleared. On the El Faouar-Douz road, on the left after Ghidma, there is a track that joins Noueil. And, everywhere, yellow ochre dunes and powdery sand that you can't help but grab to see it go to golden dust. Sublime Sahara...
Smart info
When? When? Given its geographical location, each season is suitable for a stay in Tunisia. Spring and autumn are the most favourable periods. Summer can indeed be hot on the dunes of the Sahara.
Getting there. Tunis airport is 2 hours from Paris. Tozeur also has an airport, but it is usually necessary to make a stopover in the capital.
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