Proud and rebellious, discreet and hard-working, Porto is one of those cities that do not make waves, but rather take them, like the bold Portuguese sailors who did not hesitate in the 15th century to throw themselves into the unknown, braving the ferocious waves of the Atlantic, in search of unsuspected lands. This story of half a millennium, unheard of and incredible, made up of discoveries and battles at the four corners of the seas, it is in the walls of glorious Porto and on the banks of the Douro that it is leafed through. In Braga the Baroque also, capital of Minho, the "Garden of Portugal" north of Porto. Especially in Guimarães, the cradle of the kingdom and an exciting city that was elected European Capital of Culture in 2012. From dreamy strolls nourished by naval legends to gourmet stops at the zinc of popular or trendy caves, northern Portugal delivers its treasures to the onlookers who, like the sailors of yesteryear whose compasses never lost their north, keep their sights set on Porto the magnetic. So what better way to discover this exceptional region than to plan your getaway around the night of June 23rd to 24th, at a time when more than 200,000 people are gathering to celebrate under the fireworks on Saint John's Day?
Porto and the Douro
It is welcomed by two million port workers that we get to know the urban landscape of the second Portuguese city, magnificently laid out on hills overlooking the mouth of the Douro. The historic centre of the city, classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its 2,000 years of maritime history and abundance of monuments, will certainly be appreciated by the neophyte. The Dom Luis Ier bridge, nicknamed "Eiffel Bridge" for its immense and metallic arches spanning the river, attracts attention, at least as much as the Praça da Ribeira, the beating heart of the city from which one can appreciate, lazing under the umbrellas of a local tavern, the coming and going of the boats furrowing the Douro. Before reaching the other bank and the district of Vila Nova de Gaia where an exceptional wine is aged serenely in oak barrels, a visit to the Gothic church of São Francisco with its rich Baroque ornaments and a stopover in the neoclassical Palácio da Bolsa is recommended. Heading to the upper city, the Pas Perdus room at São Bento station, one of the most beautiful in the world, houses a splendid assortment of 20,000 azulejos dating back a century, recounting the great Portuguese conquests. No less dazzling, the old Lello library, made of fine wooden arabesques adorned with bright stained glass windows, is worth a visit.
At this altitude, there are two remarkable panoramic views of the city: the romantic gardens of the Palácio de Cristal, and the viewpoint of the Tour des Clercs, perched 76 m high. At the heart of this monumental profusion, between the traditional canteens, there are many trendy bars that rival each other in inventiveness, suitable for both date lovers and snack travellers. But Porto would not be Porto without the river that ends its journey there: the Douro has its source in the Alto Douro (natural heritage of humanity) in Spain, to cross Portugal from east to west for more than 200 km. The valley that follows its curves is dotted with picturesque villages and some of the country's most famous quintas where, every autumn, while the vineyards on the banks are tinted with a monochrome of golden red, the grapes are transported to be pressed at the feet. Not having a vehicle to explore the villages of the Douro Valley is anything but a problem. From the coast, you can access everywhere via the railway: the sensual Pinhão, the pious Lamego or Peso da Régua, the counter from which the sailboats with their holds full of wine sail to Port. And to get back to the ocean, nothing could be easier, just take a seat on board a boat and let yourself be carried along the water!
Heading north
Whether you choose the coastal road that draws the coastline of a Portuguese Costa Verde with its waterfalls or the inland roads with their lush vegetation, the province of Minho unveils with the same majesty its rich landscapes, which a pious and festive population continues to enliven all year round, picturesque markets - such as the one in Barcelos - in religious processions. In this regard, Braga, the capital of the province, has the sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte. Both a perfect mastery of symmetry and the most rigorous manifestation of the profusion of Portuguese Baroque, it is an unmissable place of pilgrimage: the Via Sacra, the famous staircase that leads to the site, is a stunning initiation tour. It must be said that if the city, founded by the Celts in 300 BC and then enlarged by the Romans (the ancient remains are considerable), shelters a young population, it is also one of the most religious cities in the country. Its neighbour Guimarães, a university centre no less dynamic with an illustrious past, is much more forward-looking. Its medieval centre, stretching along Santa Maria Street between the monastery and the imposing castle built in the 10th century by Countess Mumadona Dias, is full of modern bars and international restaurants. It was once again walled up in the 12th century, allowing an admirable conservation of its architectural heritage, which will lead to its being classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001. An unusual and little-known fact, Guimarães is the cradle of Portuguese royalty: it is the birthplace of Alfonso Henriques, the first sovereign of the Portuguese crown, whose independence he declared in 1139, and was for over a century the capital of the new nation. It was at this time, in the midst of the Reconquista supported by the Knights Templar and Crusader Knights, that the Portuguese identity and language laid the foundations for their unity. In 1249, the reconquest was completed. The kingdom is at peace. A new and exciting chapter in the history of Lusitano opens: that of the Great Discoveries!
The Portuguese naval odyssey
Return to the historical centre of Porto. In the Miragaia district, a little further upstream from the Douro compared to the Ribeira, you will find the 5,000 m² of the playful and instructive World of Discoveries Interactive Museum. Much more than a simple gallery, it is a real sensory immersion in the footsteps of legendary sailors to which the attraction invites us. Visitors are welcomed by a version in period costume of Prince Henry the Navigator, the main patron of the kingdom's explorations in the 15th century (the one who gave the world "new worlds"), who will begin the story of the Portuguese naval epic with his starting point: Porto. As we board a dummy ship heading for Lisbon and then Morocco, a whole host of historical figures take over, recounting memorable episodes of crossings while detailing the harsh living conditions at sea. The journey continues with a terrible storm, experienced in the heart of an immersive 9-metre tunnel. The experience is very realistic: it is better to hang on to the rail! At the end of the storm, the crew found themselves crossing a peaceful ocean, approaching the Indian and Chinese coasts, brushing against the steep and green hills of Japan, along the tropical shores of Brazil.... Soon the journey ends, leaving all the leisure to the one-day sailors to browse the museum's tactile installations, discovering the advances of cartography on 4D balloons, admiring striking replicas of boats - from the simple boat to the monumental galleons and caravels - and ancient navigational instruments like the compass or the astrolabe. After this edifying lurch in time and space, inevitably, the gaze is no longer the same when it lingers on the Portuguese line of the horizon
Saint-Jean, between balls and fireworks
And what better way to discover this exceptional Portuguese city than to opt for the most festive and longest night of the year? The biggest popular festival in Porto, in homage to Saint John, takes place on the night of 23 to 24 June. For the occasion, nearly 200,000 people are on the streets to hit their heads with plastic mallets, meet, have fun, admire splendid fireworks, eat typical dishes and grilled sardines, before joyfully participating in the many popular games. The festival is big and does not end before sunrise, punctuated by large balls where people wiggle happily. Fortunately, June 24th is declared a holiday! So, no more time to waste planning your getaway to Northern Portugal...
Smart info
When? When? Porto may be located on the Atlantic coast, it benefits from a "Mediterranean climate with an oceanic influence", therefore temperate. Temperatures are mild all year round, with winters around 15°C and summers at 25°C on average, while the shoulder seasons offer very beautiful periods of sunshine. Porto can be visited all year round, with a preference for autumn if you walk through the Douro valley, with its bright colours at this time of year, or in early summer to attend the Saint-Jean festivities.
Getting there. Several options are available to travellers to reach northern Portugal. While air travel remains a fast and cheap means of transport (due in particular to the many low-cost flights to Porto), it is quite possible to use the rail track or to reach Porto with a personal vehicle.
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