History
The Backwaters were formed by the combined action of waves from the Arabian Sea and freshwater currents from the rivers flowing down from the Western Ghats range, their meeting creating islets at the mouths of the rivers. This has given rise to a complex network of brackish waters along the narrow coastline of the Malabar Coast. The backwaters of Kerala are made up of 1,500 km of natural and artificial channels, including 900 km of waterways, 38 rivers, 5 large lakes and a multitude of lagoons. They are home to a complex and delicate ecosystem with dense vegetation consisting of palms, shrubs and bushes that grow along the banks. The fauna includes many aquatic species such as fish, crabs, shrimps, frogs, turtles, but also a multitude of birds such as eagles, kingfishers, terns, cormorants ... A bird sanctuary has been created on Lake Vembanad, the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, to shelter and protect migratory birds that come to stopover. The Backwaters regions provide the Keralites with easily irrigated land, suitable for agriculture, especially rice, and waters rich in fish. In the past, the waterways were intensively used to transport goods for the locals (rice, fruits and vegetables, coconuts, spices, latex) and to bring the spices of the Western Ghats, the real natural gold of Kerala, to the ports on the coast to trade with sailors from all over the world. Black pepper, ginger, coriander, turmeric, cardamom, aniseed, cloves, nutmeg and other chillies were transported in dried form, but not ground, to preserve their freshness. Kettuvallam were the main means of transporting these commodities. These are traditional boats made of wood and assembled with ropes made from coconut fibers, without any metal fasteners, nails or screws. These long rice barges, whose name literally means "sewn boat" in Malayalam, were then coated with cashew and fish oil to make them waterproof. These ancestral manufacturing methods can still be seen today along the canals. The advent of more modern means of transportation has made the use of these kettuvallam for transporting goods obsolete. However, the expansion of tourism in Kerala has given a second life to these traditional boats: operators have had the idea of transforming them into houseboats, motorized "houseboats", intended to welcome travelers and make them discover the splendid landscapes of the Backwaters. These houseboats, with their palm leaf roofs, are nowadays one of the most famous postcards of Kerala. Unfortunately, their proliferation for tourist purposes causes water pollution. Indeed, the diesel necessary to the functioning of their engine spills and endangers the fragile ecosystem of the Backwaters.
Distribution of the Backwaters
Backwaters form a labyrinthine network of canals and waterways linking remote islands and villages to the mainland, likened by some to the Bayou of the southern USA. Kerala is home to 34 different backwater networks, 27 of which are close to the coast and the Arabian Sea, and 7 inland. Here's a brief overview of the main regions.
Kuttanad is undoubtedly the largest and most interesting backwater region. It covers the districts of Alleppey (Alappuzha) and Kottayam, with four major rivers winding their way through the region and providing a large expanse of arable land. A particular feature of the region is the practice of farming below sea level, thanks to an ingenious system of dykes protecting the crops. Most of the state's rice is grown here, earning it the nickname "the rice ball of Kerala". Lake Vembanad, the state's largest lake, is protected from an invasion of salt water from the Arabian Sea by the Thannermukkom dam. The lake is the epicenter of Backwaters tourism, with Alleppey as the main gateway. The towns of Kottayam and Kumarakom are interesting alternative departure points for cruises, as they are less frequented. The Kumarakom bird sanctuary, a birdwatcher's paradise, is located on the eastern shore of the lake. This is also where the Backwaters' most important sporting event takes place: the Nehru Trophy, or Snake Boat Race. These long regattas, called chundan vallam in Malayalam, can hold 120 people divided into two rows of 60 each. Participants row in rhythm to the sound of incantations by the boat leaders. Audiences flock to this exhilarating competition, which finishes at the aptly named Finishing Point in Alleppey.
Kollam. The "cashew capital" region revolves around the majestic Lake Ashtamudi, with its eight tentacled arms reminiscent of an octopus. This lake, the second largest in Kerala, is home to more than 15 islands. The area around Munroe Island is an ideal destination for a houseboat cruise, offering a glimpse of rural village life along the marshes, traditional methods of coconut fiber production, duck and shrimp farms, a myriad of migratory birds and landscapes of great beauty. Near Kollam lies the Paravur estuary, a magnificent region unjustly ignored by foreign tourists.
Thiruvananthapuram. Southern Kerala is home to some little-known marshlands that are well worth a visit. Close to the state's small capital is Lake Vellaani, offering a wealth of canoeing opportunities. A few kilometers away are the Thiruvallam backwaters, which are becoming increasingly popular with local tourists. Further south, backwaters through mangrove swamps can be found at Poovar, close to the small seaside resort of Chowara and its many ayurvedic establishments. Here, you can take a boat or motorboat ride under the shade of palm trees to the estuary overlooking the beaches of the Arabian Sea.
Kasargod. The Valiyaparamba backwaters, still largely unexplored by foreign tourists, offer numerous cruising opportunities. Close to Kannur, they are fed by four rivers and boast lush vegetation. It's an excellent alternative to the Backwaters of the south, as you won't come across many boats.
How to discover them
Several options are available to tourists wishing to discover the typical Backwaters landscapes. The first is to choose a region to explore. The most famous is Kuttanad, which boasts a large number of tourist facilities.
Staying. You can choose to stay in one of the many establishments located in the heart of the Backwaters: luxury resorts, guesthouses, guest houses... You'll find many around Alleppey, the "capital of the Backwaters", but also on Lake Vembanad in Kumarakom and around Lake Ashtamudi in Kollam. Most offer relaxing stays in accommodation overlooking the lake on which the kettuvallams sail, as well as a variety of cruises and activities. In this guide, you'll find a large number of addresses to suit all budgets. And what a pleasure it is to wake up to the sound of birdsong..
Cruises. The best way to explore the Backwaters is on a boat cruise along the canals winding through the rice paddies, shaded by coconut palms. There are several types of boat to choose from, depending on your wishes and budget.
Houseboats. Kettuvallams are the most popular accommodation option, but also the most expensive. They have been luxuriously fitted out, with comfortable en-suite bedrooms, and the bow of the boat is arranged as a dining room and observation platform. The largest have up to 5 bedrooms and an observation deck on the roof. Because of their imposing size, they can only use the widest waterways and generally follow the same route. The average booking is for one day and one night. The cruise starts at around 2 p.m., followed by dinner (included) on board. Kerala's excellent traditional cuisine makes the most of local produce. One of the pleasures is to stop off at a fisherman's along the canals to buy extra fresh prawns, more fish, or whatever else you fancy. We spend the night on the boat and return around 10am. Be aware, however, that the crew stays with you throughout the cruise, which isn't ideal for privacy, and you'll need to leave them a small tip. Always consult several agencies and ask to see the boats beforehand. Be sure to agree on what is included in the price of the cruise (meals, visits, etc.). Longer cruises are possible, and you'll have the pleasure of exploring less-frequented places.
Chikaras. These are small motorboats with a roof to protect them from the sun, chairs and sometimes a little place to lie down. Their small size enables them to navigate narrow canals and access more remote areas, giving travelers the chance to get up close to local life. Allow 3 hours for an interesting trip, especially as their limited speed restricts their range of action. You'll find plenty of chikaras in Alleppey.
Canoes. It's also possible to navigate the Kerala swamps in a small canoe, which travels the shallow channels. The boatman, usually a middle-aged man, uses a long stick to propel the craft. This type of tour is often accompanied by a traditional lunch with a local family, making it ideal for slow-tourists and those seeking authenticity.
Ferries. These cross the Backwaters to transport villagers and schoolchildren. These shuttles can be used by tourists to get from one point to another, but you should be aware that discovering the Backwaters on board a ferry is not a good idea: the wooden seats are quickly uncomfortable, the engines are noisy and the diesel fumes are not very pleasant.
