Kuta, the most famous spot for beginners
Here, waves break on sandy bottoms. Along the beach from the airport, at high tide, the whole of Kuta beach offers pretty waves. The breaks, as they're known in surfing jargon, get stronger as you move northwards. This requires good physical condition and a certain know-how. This is where you'll meet the most friendly, open-minded surfers. Many of them are Balinese, but you can pick up many tips from Australians, Europeans and Japanese.
Further north, Seminyak and Petit-Gent offer nice breaks, but often quite far from the beach. 1 km off Kuta, the reef breaks (more dangerous as the waves break on the reefs) are accessible if you hire the services of an outrigger. You can either ask the pilot to leave you there and come back for you later, or suggest that he stays for the duration of your art. This spot, like the majority of Bali's spots, is starting to become well known. The first part of the wave poses no problem for the experienced surfer, but from 2.20 m it breaks.
On the other side, the righthanders (waves heading to the right from the surfer's point of view) are just as dangerous at low tide as they are at high tide. Some have left a few shreds. An outrigger is a must.
Much further north, on a beach accessible by road from Krobokan, the more off-center site of Canggu offers waves of up to 1.80 m. Further out, Medewi is known for its left-hand break at the start of high tide, and Balian for its left-hand breaker.
Where to surf according to the season?
It's difficult to draw up an exhaustive map of the best spots, because every good surfer has his own spots and guards them jealously. This is understandable, given the ever-increasing crowds every year. It's no fun surfing in a crowd of people. If you find a rare spot, feel free to reveal it or not... During the dry monsoon (April to October), the trade winds from Australia create beautiful waves in the west, between Uluwatu and Gilimanuk in the far west of Bali, and in the east at Nusa Lembongan, where surfing seems to be possible all year round. During the wet monsoon (November to March), the coast is preferable due to the north-easterly winds that bring the rains. In fact, many places are potentially suitable for surfing, but this requires a good knowledge of the tides and reefs.
Among the locals who have made a name for themselves in the surfing world are Rizal Tandjung (in his forties), who has surfed several times alongside the famous Kelly Slater, his son Varun, and rising Indonesian surfing star Branson Meydi (born 2004).
Uluwatu, one of the most beautiful spots in the world for experienced snorkelers
Uluwatu remains famous for its surfing site to the east of the sacred temple built by Nirartha, the ancestor of Bali's Shivaite-Buddhist Brahmins. The Suluban site is reached after a short 3 km journey from the main road, via stairs and a winding path through a gorge. Above a cave, a series of warungs offer rest and refreshment. The last of these is located at the base of the cliff, where you can enjoy the breathtaking spectacle of Asia's most famous swell. The swell is long and fascinating in its amplitude, swelling to form the most astonishing "tubes". They're not as high as Hawaii, but they carry all the demons of the Balinese sea. There are a dozen different breaks , spread over 120°.
If this is your first encounter with Uluwatu, it's best to get in touch with the regulars, who are busy recounting their exploits in the few losmen housing the countless surfboards. They'll be happy to give you some good advice. A quick glance will tell you where the surfers are catching the wave.
Padang-Padang and Bingin
Still on the Bukit peninsula. You have to head north to reach it. After walking along the cliff face, a flight of stairs takes you to the Padang-Padang site, where you'll discover wraparound tubes that require a good deal of experience. Even further north, the fast tubes of Bingin, near Labuan Sait, await you by road from Pecatu. Every year in July and August, the highly selective Rip Curl Padang Padang takes place, inviting only pro surfers, and in October, the Hurley Bingin Open.
Even further north, between Jimbaran and Labuan Sait, Balangan beach offers lower waves, but just as dangerous. Due to its more difficult access, this site is less frequented than the others. To the south, around 5 km from Pecatu, Nyang-Nyang beach, accessible via a long staircase leading down from the terrace of a magnificent restaurant with a 180° panoramic view, offers classic right-handers with an amplitude of 1.80 m at most. It's best to go there without the offshore breeze, fairly early in the morning.
How to get the right equipment
For small breaks, a small board will suffice, but for Uluwatu or the tubes of Padang-Padang, you'll need a "Gun", a long board specially designed for big waves. It's best to rent your equipment locally. Otherwise, don't take more than two boards, as customs will give you a hard time. They'll ask you for a deposit, assuming you want to resell them on the spot. Don't forget that you'll be in a warm tropical sea (from 22 to 28°C), depending on the season and currents. A short-sleeved wetsuit is welcome, especially in July, which remains the coolest month of the year, with occasional cooling winds. A short-sleeved wetsuit can also protect the clumsy from crashing into reefs. In this case, don't take 90-degree alcohol, which closes and shrinks the wound, but Betadine or the equivalent of hydrogen peroxide, and sea water plasters. You'll also need good shoes to tackle the reefs and walk along the cliffs.
