Welcome to one of the most volcanic islands in the world
Although surrounded by water, Bali is one of the world's most volcanically active archipelagos. Indonesia lies at the junction of two tectonic plates, the Eurasian and Indo-Australian, which has led to the formation of numerous volcanoes. Bali lies in the path of the "Pacific Ring of Fire": almost 450 emerged volcanoes (75% of the planet's volcanoes) that follow an almost straight curve in the Pacific Ocean, over a distance of around 40,000 km. These volcanoes are located on the coasts of countries or on islands at the boundary of tectonic plates and the planet's main oceanic faults, from Patagonia to the Tonga Islands, via Alaska, Japan and Indonesia.
You'll discover Bali's volcanoes in the north of the island, on a west-east axis, with the western volcanoes formed first. As a result, most of the island's surface is covered by volcanic magma.
The volcanic chain remains very active, with two major volcanoes, Gunung Agung (3,142 meters) and Gunung Batur (1,717 meters), dominating the northeast of Bali. This volcanic activity has resulted in great fertility. But the deadly eruptions of Batur and Gunung Agung in 1963 also devastated the regions to the east, forcing many Balinese to emigrate to other parts of Indonesia. The Balinese consider it a miracle that the Besakih temple was spared. Gunung Agung, which has remained inactive since that sad year, erupted again in 2017 and again in 2019, fortunately without causing any casualties. It therefore erupts regularly, with clouds of ash forming and moving around, sometimes causing airspace closures. The Indonesian government is calling for extreme vigilance and has closed the 4 km zone around the crater. It is advisable to keep abreast of developments in the volcano's activity. We strongly recommend that you consult the website of the French Embassy in Indonesia: www.id.ambafrance.org.
As for the Batur volcano, it last erupted in 2000. As you stroll along the rim of its three craters, you'll enjoy a fine view over the region and, in some cases, over Lombok's Rinjani volcano. Monkey sightings are not uncommon.
The Bratan, caldera with three lakes
The island's other main peaks are Batukaru (2,278 metres) and Abang (2,152 metres). This southern volcanic mountain range, balanced by a large limestone plateau known as the "bukit" (hill), divides Bali into two very distinct regions. The northern part, reduced to a fairly narrow coastal strip, rises fairly rapidly towards the mountain slopes and has a dry climate conducive to coffee growing. Only two rivers irrigate this slope, one around Singaraja and the other around Seririt.
Mount Batukaru, a sacred mountain for the locals, is Bali's second highest peak. A forest hike, the excursion takes around 5 hours, starting from Pura Luhur Batukaru in the center of the island. Along the way, you'll come across Batukaru temple, one of Bali's must-see temples, at an altitude of 900 metres.
A caldera is a volcanic crater. Bratan, near Munduk and Bedugul, is of this type, 11 km long and 6 km wide. It boasts beautiful tropical forests and three lakes: Bratan, Tambligan and Buyan. There are also hot springs due to geothermal activity. Lake Bratan is the most impressive. Water is drawn from here to irrigate plantations. Access is by scooter or car. At an altitude of 1,500 metres, you can admire the 16th-century Ulan Danau temple.
The diversity of landscapes on the Balinese territory
The waters around Bali are filled with coral reefs that scuba diving enthusiasts will love to explore. The southern part, which stretches from north to south in successive stages, lends itself wonderfully to rice terraces. Numerous rivers have created gorges where the terraces stop, soon revealing lush, natural vegetation. The southwest appears as a succession of irrigated tongues of land and dry fields from which coconut plantations spring. As for the south-east, the eruption of Gunung Agung (1963-1964) disrupted the landscape to such an extent that the Karangasem region, once one of Bali's richest, has given way to a phantasmagorical landscape, battered by large volcanic debris.
West Bali, little known to tourists, is home to both arid zones and forests developed on rugged terrain. This part of the island deserves particular attention for its original clove and coffee plantations, the island's only national park, and its coastline offering excellent spots for experienced surfers.
To the east, the slopes of the Seraja volcano have given rise to grasslands and dry crops. As for the Bukit peninsula and the island of Nusa Penida, with their limestone reliefs, the land allows the growth of kapok trees (from which the plant fiber is extracted to produce kapok) and bushes of an almost Mediterranean type. Beaches are generally of volcanic black sand, except in the south of the island (Kuta-Legian-Seminyak and the Bukit peninsula) and the north (Lovina). It's often said that Bali is a volcanic island entirely devoted to the cultivation of rice terraces. Nothing could be further from the truth. Irrigated land accounts for just 15% of the total, while dryland cultivation is now estimated at around 50%.
Natural or man-made caves
Indonesians worship the caves, which are considered mysterious and magical. Many come here to pray and meditate. Throughout the archipelago, there are two types of caves: those formed by volcano eruptions, with molten lava leaving behind underground tunnels as it descends; and limestone or sandstone caves, formed by the erosion of rivers and rainwater, with tunnels and underground passages. Bali's caves are mainly limestone, dating back 10,000 years. The bat cave, Goa Lawah, in the southeast attracts many tourists. The elephant cave, Goa Gaja, is not a natural cave, but was created from an ancient temple. It lies just 2 km from Ubud. The site has been a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1995.
A final geological phenomenon is the Uluwatu cliff on the Bukit peninsula, composed of limestone and formed by sea erosion. Perched on the side of this cliff, the 11th-century Uluwatu temple is one of Bali's most beautiful and emblematic temples, and a must-see. A word of warning against the local monkeys who have made tourists their target: they are mischievous little thieves, stealing objects and food right out of the bag!
The Prapat Agung peninsula to the northwest, part of Bali Barat National Park, is also home to limestone mountains. The island of Nusa Penida, to the east of Bali, is a very arid limestone plateau that completes this picture of Balinese limestone formations to explore.
A good hydrography for the amateurs of rafting but not only...
Whether you're a beginner or an experienced rafter, Bali's rivers offer you the chance to experience the thrill of rafting in varying current strengths. There are three main rivers. The Ayung, in the Ubud region, is the longest river. It rises in the northern mountains and flows for almost 70 kilometers through Bangli, Badung and Gianyar. Its course ends in the Badung Strait at Sanur. To the east of the island, the Telaga Waja rises on Mount Abang. It flows through the Rendang region before emptying into the Bali Sea. You'll appreciate its crystal-clear waters. To the south-east, at Bakas, the Melangit River is well known among rafting enthusiasts, who can enjoy this sensational sport through a beautiful tropical forest.
The Petanu River, a sacred river, corresponds to the historical center of Bali, where the first kingdoms were born. No fewer than forty temples can be found on this narrow strip of land... What's more, the scenery - rivers, rice paddies and forest - is magnificent.
Rice fields on the Unesco heritage list
The Jatiluwih rice fields in central Bali have been a Unesco World Heritage Site since 2012. And it's easy to see why when you get there... They're situated at an altitude of 600 metres. They are Bali's most beautiful rice terraces, shaped like a natural amphitheatre. The traditional rice of Jatiluwih is red and matures much longer than white rice. It is served as tea in the village's few warungs. Ancestral 21st-century methods are still applied, and only natural fertilizers are used. Jatiluwih means "truly beautiful". You'll be won over.