The charm of traditional houses
When we speak of the "maison périgourdine", we're talking about a traditional rural style of housing in the south of the department: a house built entirely of blond or ochre stone, covered with a steeply pitched roof of 2 or more slopes, pierced by "lucarnes" to let light into the attic space. The "lauze" roof, made of heavy flat limestone slabs, traditionally added charm to these dwellings. But this is not the only face of the Périgord house. If you travel through the Isle valley (Périgord Blanc like stone) and the north of the Dordogne (Périgord Vert, closer to Limousin), you'll fall under the spell of the white stone or granite longères. Depending on the needs of the family, and the reversal of fortune, they were extended by a room or two, juxtaposed to the first, and sometimes by a barn. In this mineral landscape, Double is an exception, with the use of wood in the construction of beautiful half-timbered and brick farmhouses. This abundant material is also used in urban architecture to lighten masonry, as in the Bergerac region. As you stroll along, you'll notice the tiny andrônes, the spaces left between two adjoining houses to prevent the spread of fires, once the scourge of the city. Their management in terms of property ownership, rainwater and wastewater collection could prove a real headache! Of course, urban centers also boast some magnificent townhouses, flanked by the remarkable features typical of their type: carved stone lacework, mullioned windows, monumental doors and so on. Most were intended for residential use, but some were also military garrisons. You'll find some fine examples in Périgueux, Sarlat and Thiviers, to name but a few.
The castles
It's impossible to pass through Périgord without visiting a castle! They're dotted all over the region, with a high concentration in Périgord Noir. Built in the High Middle Ages in place of ancient feudal mottes, medieval castles have a dual function. The first was to provide a vantage point from which to watch for intruders. The second is defensive: the castle protects against enemy assaults by means of elaborate fortification systems and impregnable high perches. Of all the conflicts suffered by Périgord, it was the Hundred Years' War that had the greatest impact on the region. Let's go back to 1137, when Eleanor of Aquitaine married the heir to the English crown, Henry II Plantagenet, and gave part of Périgord to the English. The Dordogne River symbolized the border between the two enemy kingdoms. The Château de Beynac on the French side faced the English fortress of Castelnaud... Imagine the atmosphere! Enraged, the lord of Beynac had Marqueyssac built as an outpost to keep an eye on his rival. The lord of Castelnaud responded by building Château de Fayrac. It wasn't until the Battle of Castillon in the 15th century that conflict in the region came to an end. As time went on, conflicts shifted to more open terrain, with the result that heavy, thick walls lost some of their appeal. After the Hundred Years' War, the architecture of castles evolved and they became places of residence. Barnyards were transformed into ornamental gardens, curtain walls were knocked down to create terraces, and windows were opened to let in the light.
Caves and troglodytes
In the Périgord region, caves have been inhabited since the dawn of time, and have been used in all eras according to the issues of the day: sheltering, hiding, defending, storing, praying and so on. If they're located at the foot of their limestone cliffs, you'll have no trouble getting to them; nevertheless, they are sometimes perched on the side of the wall. Throughout the Périgord region, it was customary to build houses leaning against the cliffs, thus avoiding the need to build a façade and saving a considerable amount of materials. These atypical dwellings often offer vast surface areas, because in addition to the surface area that was built, there was also that which was in the cave, whether natural or excavated. Bonus features include natural air conditioning and a wonderful wine cellar! A visit to the Roque Saint-Christophe near Les Eyzies will give you an insight into the way these cliff dwellers lived and organized their lives over the centuries, and you'll marvel at their resourcefulness. The troglodyte village of La Madeleine is also well worth a visit, representing 17,000 years of human occupation of stone.
The charm of the bastides
Contrary to popular belief, bastides are found throughout the département, although there is a high concentration of this type of architecture in the southern Dordogne. They are the architectural emblem of Franco-English rivalries and, surprisingly, were built by both sides, often on very similar plans. "Bastide" simply means "building" in Occitan. You'll notice the regular absence of ramparts around these urban constructions, as their vocation was primarily commercial. The aim was to facilitate trade by building villages with perpendicular, checkerboard streets and identically-sized houses. The main thoroughfares led to the central square, with its covered walkways under angle-iron legs, and to the central market hall. Smaller streets called carreyrous provided access to the heart of the town. In the Dordogne, the oldest is Villefranche-du-Périgord, founded in 1261; the best-known and most photographed is Montpazier. The lesser-known ones are not to be found in Périgord Noir. Among them are the remarkable Saint-Aulaye, Tocane and Vergt. The unfinished Molières church has a special charm. It boasts a single cornice (house with jambs) set timidly around an oversized square. The folly of grandeur!
