The history of the vine in Bergerac
The Bergerac vineyard, with its 12,300 hectares and 900 growers, is the other major vineyard in Aquitaine, behind its big brother in Bordeaux. Its origins go back a long way. Although it was the Etruscans who introduced vines to France as early as the 7th century BC, Bergerac's vineyards date back to Roman times. It is estimated that the Romans planted the first vines around Bergerac around 60 BC. Over the centuries, monks became winegrowers after clearing land to gain a few acres. At the time, rich land was reserved for food crops, with vines relegated to the less noble soils... What irony! Vineyards initially grew up around abbeys, and the beverage was kept in their cellars. Although in the 12th century, vines were often replaced by food crops, the Middle Ages saw a great expansion of vineyards along the Dordogne valley, sheltered by the river's gentleness. Recognized for their quality and exported to England as early as the mid-13th century, Bergerac wines set out to conquer northern Europe as early as the 16th century. It was at this time that the Dutch discovered the sweetness and smoothness of white wines, particularly from the Montbazillac terroir. To this day, these wines are known as "marques hollandaises", the name given to Monbazillac wines sold in the Netherlands in the late 17th and 18th centuries. The history of viticulture, Protestantism and the Wars of Religion are intimately intertwined in highly complex historical and human issues. Over time, farming techniques were refined, with vines first growing on the ground, then on stakes, and finally planted in rows as we know them today. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize that this type of cultivation proved far more profitable than the others, so much so that vineyards spread throughout the department right up to the end of the 19th century. Alas, the Dordogne did not escape the terrible ravages of phylloxera. It took courage and perseverance after this terrible ordeal to renew the vineyards, thanks in particular to an American rootstock. It wasn't until the second half of the twentieth century that Bergerac shed its reputation as a "small" wine and finally found its place on the finest tables. Today, thanks to massive investment from abroad, renewed harvesting and winemaking practices, and the courage of local men and women, Bergerac wines hold their own against their Bordeaux neighbors.
The Bergerac region's appellations
There are 13 pure Bergerac appellations, spread over 90 villages. Bergerac is one of the few regions to produce as many white wines as reds.
Bergerac is divided into 5 appellations: the Bergerac Rouge appellation concerns wines made from traditional grape varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot noir, Côt or Malbec). These are elegant, supple, fruity reds. The Bergerac rosé appellation is relatively recent, responding to a demand for fresh, festive summer wines. Dry white Bergerac is made from Sémillon, Muscadelle, Ondenc, Sauvignon and Chenin blanc grapes. Excellent served chilled as an aperitif or with seafood. Côtes de Bergerac Rouges are more structured and full-bodied than their Bergerac counterparts. As for Cotes de Bergerac Blanc, these are mellow wines with a delicate bouquet.
Pécharmant is a red appellation covering just 300 ha to the northeast of Bergerac. It's a typical wine for laying down, with good press, and goes very well with classic Perigord cuisine.
On the right bank, the Montravel appellation is divided into four appellations: the reds boast great aromatic complexity with floral notes, halfway between the power of Bergerac and the subtlety of Saint-Émilion. White Montravel is a round, well-structured lowland wine that's perfect as an aperitif. Côtes de Montravel is slightly mellow and floral, with a pleasant lightness of expression. Haut Montravel is much softer. Try it with blue-veined cheese, it's a perfect match.
The famous Monbazillac stretches along the southern slopes of the Dordogne valley. This is the sweet wine par excellence. Noble rot (Botrytis Cinerea) is responsible for the unique taste of this nectar and its distinctive golden color. The ideal accompaniment is foie gras.
The Saussignac appellation produces well-balanced, less sweet sweet wines, with aromas of acacia and white fruit.
And finally, the highly confidential Rosette appellation, north of Bergerac, has just a dozen growers. They produce semi-dry or sweet white wines with a straw color and subtle aromas of white flowers and citrus fruit.
The other appellation, Vin de Domme
In recent years, winegrowers have also replanted some 20 hectares of vines in Domme. This revives a winegrowing tradition that dates back to Gallo-Roman times. Subsequently, the expansion of vineyards in Domme is linked to the considerable clearing and planting work carried out for the Cistercian monks of Cadouin Abbey. There are also "fiscal" traces of the existence of Domme wine, notably through a tax called "vinée". Numerous official deeds attesting to the sale of plots of land dedicated to vines have survived from the 15th century. But it wasn't until the 17th century that the Domme wine trade really took off. Some were even served at the table of kings. The Dordogne River and the port of Domme were key to this flourishing trade, as they enabled the port of Bordeaux to be reached by barge. In the 18th century, business was so brisk that vines became almost a monoculture. Vines grew everywhere, even on difficult terrain and terraced ravines. Exports to England and the Netherlands boomed. It was to be a golden age, until the arrival of phylloxera. In Périgord, the years 1870-1890 were particularly disastrous. The surface area of vineyards in the Dordogne was divided by 5. Poverty drove the workforce to the cities. Domme's vineyards never recovered, giving way to corn, tobacco and livestock farming. Gradually, over the generations, the know-how and knowledge of the vine were lost... In 1993, the association "Les Amis du Vin du Pays de Domme", made up of elected representatives and local residents, set out to revive this forgotten vineyard. In 1997, the Coopérative des vignerons des coteaux du Céou was born. Since December 31, 2011, Vin de Domme has been able to boast a PGI label and a good 20 hectares planted on clay-limestone soil. With several medals awarded at the Concours Général de Paris, Domme's winemakers can be proud of the work they've accomplished. Let's hope this is just the beginning of a long adventure!
Brandies, Cognac and Ratafia
Traditionally, a Perigordian meal ends with a small glass of brandy. This practice is tending to disappear today; for obvious health reasons, people are consuming less alcohol. The distillers who once criss-crossed the countryside with their stills are becoming increasingly rare. But the know-how remains, and only needs to be revived, within the administrative and legal limits. On a family scale, if you're staying with friends, or even at a table d'hôtes, you'll surely have the opportunity to indulge in this custom by ending your meal with a "prune" or a "pear". Unless you're offered ratafia. This is a sweet alcoholic beverage obtained by macerating plants (fruit, grape must, herbs) in alcohol. In Périgord, you'll have the pleasure of dipping your fingers into your glass, to go fishing by the tail for a cherry or plum preserved in sweet brandy. The gourmet option is to serve yourself a bit of "old boy jam", which uses the same process in a single jar, blending all the fruits of the seasons. To complete this inventory, we can't leave out Cognac. The Saint-Aulaye region has been listed as a Cognac PDO since 1909. The commune has taken up the challenge of honoring this beverage by planting 2 hectares of colombard. Backed by the Camus house, a local cuvée made in Périgord was released for the first time in 2019, with 3,000 bottles of the 2015 vintage. All that remains now is to reinvent the way it's drunk: beyond the traditional digestif, why not in a cocktail or extended with soda at aperitif time? Let us know what you think! But above all, we can never say it often enough: consume all these spirits in moderation!
The Vignobles et Découvertes label
Created in 2009, the Vignobles & Découvertes label is awarded for a 3-year period by Atout France, on the recommendation of the Conseil Supérieur de l'Œnotourisme, to wine tourism destinations offering a wide range of complementary products (accommodation, restaurants, cellar tours and tastings, museums, events, etc.) to help customers organize their stay. Thanks to this label, you'll find it easier to find accommodation in the heart of the vineyards, a restaurant offering a wine and food pairing or a menu featuring local products, or wineries ready to welcome you..
