Outside the beaten track, the Snæfellsjökull Peninsula and the western fjords are beautiful and wild. In geological terms, the western fjords form the oldest part of the island and any volcanic activity has disappeared. The coast is only a long succession of deep fjords separated by mountain caps. Small, isolated fishing hamlets sometimes take place nearby. The stiffness of the slopes, combined with the rigor of the climate, explains the scarcity of vegetation on this inhospitable coast, but nowhere in Iceland is the landscape as majestic.
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is set up and, in particular, the imposing volcano which is asleep. The famous Snæfellsjökull, crowned with an immaculate glacier called the Boreal Fuji-Yama, is one of the mythical summits of our planet. Jules Verne located the entrance door of his famous journey to the center of the earth, while the Tibetans designate him as one of the vital centers of the world. Lava fields, at the foot of the glacier, bear witness to intense volcanic activity.
After Búðir, black rocks emerge between blond sand dunes. The small lake of Arnarstapi where many elves gather at night to sing and dance is a perfect day for hiking. Grundarfjörður is the next step with its impressive «peaks of hell» whose summits are about 900 meters above sea level.
Stykkishólmur will be the last step in the peninsula. The main activity is fishing. Here we are embarked on the discovery of the labyrinth of islands and islands that are the domain of hundreds of birds including white eagle eagle, a giant among eagles. Seals that are preaching to the sun on the reefs. Return to port to catch the ferry that will allow us to cross Breiðafjörður Bay and reach the fjords of the west.
The navigation is calm, the cleared sky and the white summits of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula gently distance itself forming a long white line in the middle of the blue sky and sea. We take the road to the west, marveled by the immense stretches of sand with golden and dark colors strewn with some shredded rocks on one side and cliffs on the other.
The main attraction of the region is the immense cliffs of Látrabjarg. True natural stone fortress of 14 km long and up to 444 meters high. This rocky wall is the kingdom of countless seabirds. The colony of monks is the largest in the world. It is quite unbelievable and true national symbol and overshadows the many basins of bassan, guillemots and penguins.
Back by the slopes and then on Route 60 which crosses the mountains of Hrafnseyrarheiði with numerous possibilities of hiking. Dynjandi, called Fjallfoss or «mountain fall» is one of Iceland's most beautiful waterfalls. 100 meters wide, 30 meters wide at its peak and 60 meters at its base, it lets slip along rugged walls, in seven staircases, to finally sneak into a narrow gully.
Small fishing villages and fjords follow. The very sparsely populated population is mainly confined to these fishing hamlets that survive due to the proximity of the very fishy waters. If the region seems to be hostile, the incredible natural beauty that exudes it seduced and the road is a landscape that is constantly changing.
The heart of the western fjords is torn by a 80 km sealable language, the south coast of which is cut into many small fjords. This majestic decor houses the town of Isafjörður, a small regional capital of 3,000 inhabitants, extending on a sandy peninsula. The houses are treated, repainted every year in bright colors. Excursion to sea kayak to discover marine wildlife, exit at sea for whale watching… activities do not miss!
After passing through Strandir coast, we cross the fertile and green valleys of Laugar Sælingsdalur, a region rich in ancient folklore. The discussion with Holmavík's sorcerer gives life to the trolls we have had on the coasts since the beginning of the voyage. We are in the middle of a campaign with herds of Icelandic sheep and horses. With the first Viking settlers between 874 and 930, geographical isolation preserved the purity of this breed of Nordic horses that became famous.
The road will still be long through the land to reach Reykjavík. The country's creative energy is palpable in museums, galleries, streets, restaurants, pubs and clubs that boil over the weekend. This is a great place to celebrate. But Reykjavík owes his nickname «smoke bay» to intense geothermal activity and baths. We plunge with delight in the milky and mineral-rich water of the Blue Lagoon before returning to the plane. A hostile, grandiose, truly unique nature. Iceland conquered us.
To organize his stay: NORD SPACES, specialist in Nordic countries, proposes Iceland as winter, including this discovery outside the beaten tracks of the western fjords. Several circuits and autotours.
