Winterization and maintenance

General maintenance

For the longevity of the vehicle, engine maintenance is recommended every 15,000 km. With today's vehicles, you can drive more than 50,000 km without changing the engine oil. It is nevertheless recommended to change the oil more frequently. Likewise, the brakes, which are subject to heavy use, should be checked regularly. Some operations, not necessarily complicated, can be done by yourself. When you wash your motorhome, start with the roof, which is prone to black streaks, and take the opportunity to check the sealant joints. Washing the exterior of the cell is comparable to washing a car. High-pressure jet, special brush on telescopic handle, mop, each to his own method. The clean water tank should be cleaned with diluted bleach once a year. Recharge the batteries once a month for 72 hours to prevent them from deteriorating. Take care of your windshield wipers. In winter, lift them up to prevent them from freezing; in hot weather, protect the rubber from melting with a blanket. Wipe off dust with a cloth. In theory, you should change the wiper blades once a year..

Humidity: the most important thing to watch out for

Water is the bane of motorhomes and, contrary to what one might think, they are not waterproof. All models are at risk of water infiltration at some point in their life. This is why an annual moisture check is the only way to prevent infiltration as soon as possible. The most common signs that should alert you are: black or rusty marks, musty smells, stains on the ceiling, damp benches and cushions, crowded or deformed exterior. In case of discovered infiltration, if your motorhome is new, you will use the "waterproof guarantee" valid between five and fifteen years, depending on whether or not you have taken an extended warranty. In order for the dealer or the brand's retailer to accept the guarantee and pay for the costs, the moisture check must be carried out before the anniversary date of the vehicle, every year, starting from the first year. An oversight and the warranty is void, beware! Professionals are very strict about this, as it involves high repair costs in the event of infiltration. The control of the humidity rate costs a hundred euros. Beyond the warranty, do not miss this control, new or used motorhome.

Tyres

They must be closely monitored because they are subject to high pressures. Under full load, proper vehicle tire pressure is essential. If the tires seem to be crushed even though they are properly inflated, check that you are not overloaded. If not, distribute the weight more evenly within the cell. It is recommended to distribute the load in the vehicle to avoid localized overloading. Never store heavy objects (cans) in the upper cupboards. It is also necessary to respect the inflation pressures specific to the conditions of use and to check them when cold. The weight on each wheel must not exceed the acceptable limit for the tire. As a reminder, tire pressure should be checked when the tire is cold, i.e. before driving. An under-inflated or crushed tire may explode. Another point to watch is the age of the tires. If your motorhome's mileage remains relatively low from one year to the next, your tires will age one year. After three years, they may not look worn, but they will be old. So consider whether or not to change them. When your vehicle is serviced, don't hesitate to ask your dealer or garage.

The average annual maintenance budget

All in all, you will need to plan for 2,000 euros of maintenance costs per year. about 150 € for the waterproofing control, 250 € of household maintenance products adapted to the motorhome, the change of tires every three to five years, which makes an average of 150 € per year, the technical control of 83 € every 2 years (that is to say 41,5 €/year), the wintering varying between 300 and 500 € per year if you need to park the motorhome elsewhere than at home, the insurance between 350 and 550 € per year, the oil change, the change of brake pads..

The most common breakdowns

The slightest malfunction can cause panic. What is going on and can it be repaired? In most cases, the breakdown can be solved. Far from being exhaustive, it is the case of a bad gas flow, a flat tire, a power failure in the cell (usually a blown fuse), the water pump not working anymore... First of all, consult the motorhome booklet, a mine of information. Online tutorials can help you. Consulting forums and online help are very efficient but, at a distance, all sorts of advice is given to you; you can sometimes feel lost if the breakdown is not solved by dint of trying or by lack of technical knowledge. Your best contact is still your dealer or a professional garage of the brand of your motorhome, who will have to deal with the breakdown almost every day. Many small jobs can be done on your own by buying easily replaceable spare parts.

Wintering

A well-prepared winterization makes it easier to get your vehicle up and running at the beginning of the season. Let's start with the water. For hygienic reasons, clean the pipes and tanks. To prevent freezing, drain the tanks, hoses and pump. Dismantle the pump, clean the filter and store it in a warm place. Leave the taps open, remove the plugs from the sinks, washbasin and clean water tank. Drain the boiler well. And why not descale it? Get a container to catch the waste water, as freezing sometimes prevents it from staying in the waste water tank. When the frost is weak, a few handfuls of coarse salt will keep the wastewater tank from freezing.

Keep an eye on the ventilation system to prevent a bad smell from permeating your motorhome. Leave skylights slightly open with a screen. Never block the air vents in the cell. Vacuum the outside air vents. Clean the refrigerator and leave the door ajar. Rinse and disinfect the chemical toilet tank. Rubber seals don't like the cold. They can be treated with a suitable grease. It is preferable to bring in bedding, mattresses and cushions that would get damp.

Insects can nestle in the air outlet of the boiler. For the bodywork, plan a good cleaning, as for the bays. Lighten the weight on the tires as much as possible. Do not apply the handbrake, even if you have to use chocks, to avoid problems in case of freezing. Empty closets and trunks, and vacuum. If you have an air conditioner, close the air intake. Don't forget to close the air vents in the driver's compartment, which can cause cold drafts. Check the quality of the liquid in the cooling system as well as that of the engine oil, which must be adapted to the expected temperatures. Check the condition of the battery and tires.

Check that the heating system and all the accessories that contribute to good visibility are working properly. Coat all door and trunk seals with a silicone or petroleum jelly based product. External insulation of the windshield will be effective.

Where to leave your motorhome during winter ?

A covered and heated room is the best solution to park your motorhome. Do not park it in the grass, too wet, nor in the light. There are protective covers available; interesting if you leave the vehicle in a barn where birds come to nest. If you don't have a place where you live, start by prospecting around your home, especially if you live in the country. Farmers or neighbors may have a shed or a large space and be willing to winterize your camper. Plan ahead for winter storage, because at the end of the season everyone rushes in and spaces are scarce. Sites such as Stockly or Hivernage C.C. put you in touch with individuals who offer winter storage. Rentals are generally annual, with or without a contract (a contract ensures a clear service), or for a period of 6 months.

The return of the good times

Let's review what to look for before you hit the road.

First, the batteries. How did they fare over the winter? Check the electrolyte level before charging. Charge both batteries well (24 hours) when restarting. If the motorhome has been totally immobile during the winter, the tires should be re-inflated. This is the opportunity to check the spare tire. A glance at the service booklet, another at the date of the technical inspection, let's go to the cell.

Is the pump working? Is the canopy in good condition? Check the boiler, the footboard, the refrigerator, the water heater, the heating, and the accessories. Clean your tank with bleach, fill it and run the pump to fill the boiler. Drain the air from the pipes leaving them open. Connect the refrigerator to the 220 V. Don't forget to check that the gas hose will last another season. Easy, its use-by date is 3 to 4 years.

Snowmobiling: hitting the road in winter

As a fan of skiing and winter sports, be confident and certain of your heating system before you leave. Also, be sure of your own resources. As night falls, you use more electricity and heating. Without a generator, it's hard to imagine parking in the mountains in winter. You need to bring chains and practice mounting them in advance, which is not easy with large diameter wheels. They are always mounted on the drive wheels. For the mechanics, remember to check the antifreeze level of the coolant, fill the windshield washer tank with an antifreeze product, and change the engine battery if you doubt its capacity. Starting a diesel engine in extreme cold that hasn't been run for several days requires a lot of power.

Finally, bring a snow shovel to clear the snow from the roof. If the motorhome is not equipped with a ladder, take a step ladder and a long-handled scraper. All you have to do is enjoy it!