Introduction

To prepare for your trip, first make sure that your machine is able to withstand the distance and conditions of the trip. This anticipation is valid for each element checked. For example, tires in good condition at the start are not enough if you know that they will be worn out halfway through the trip. Then there's the choice of guidance tools and route planning, the list of websites and apps to update information along the way (traffic, weather, gas stations), checking your insurance coverage, and selecting the tools and documents to take along. If you want to transport your motorcycle to your destination, take the time to read the paragraph we devote to this subject at the end of the chapter, just before the last tips and measures to take to store your machine on your return.

Preparing the bike

Here are the essential parts of the motorcycle that you will have to check before your departure. If some operations are too tedious or technical, do not hesitate to bring forward the technical visit of your machine or to ask for one to check the essential points. This could be the price of your peace of mind. Don't be surprised by the time it takes to get an appointment with your mechanic, you're not the only one who wants to go on vacation on a motorcycle!

Tires. We sometimes forget it, but tires are an essential safety device, being the only link between the road and the bike. The stresses they are going to be subjected to on a trip require a careful inspection of their appearance and pressure. A close look will reveal any cuts or other irregularities that could eventually threaten the integrity of the tire. Ideally, it is best to avoid having to replace them during the trip. By law, a tire must be replaced when any of the measured grooves are less than 1.6 millimeters deep. Take into account the distance you plan to travel and the extra weight of the load, which will accelerate wear. In addition, a tire that is more than 50% worn increases the risk of a puncture, especially at the rear.

Be careful if you change tires: they will be particularly slippery during the first few kilometers. Rode them over their entire surface for about 100 kilometers to ensure their complete adherence. If you are going on a long trip, choose hard-compound road or sport tires. Soft sport tires have a very short life (often less than 5,000 km), at least on a long trip.
Smooth driving, without hard acceleration or braking, will extend the life of the tires (and incidentally, use less gas and save brake pads).
You should also check your tire pressure. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations in the driver's manual, and often by a sticker on your machine. Tire pressure should preferably be checked when the tire is cold (the measured pressure of a warm tire increases by about 0.3 bar, even more in hot weather). Check the tire pressure approximately every 1,000 km. Gas stations with a working pressure gauge and compressor (available free of charge) are becoming increasingly rare. In addition, some inflator hoses are now extended with a rigid handle that makes it difficult, if not impossible, to access the valves on some motorcycle models. A pocket-sized pressure gauge is inexpensive, doesn't take up much space and does a lot of good. At worst, you can find free inflators near major highway toll booths. Outside of the highway, ask garages and car maintenance centers. They all have a compressor and are usually willing to let safety-conscious motorcyclists use them. In the countryside, remember that every self-respecting farmer also has a compressor on the farm.
During this period of preparation, think about using a preventive anti-puncture product. This type of product is marketed by several brands. Although it is based on a semi-liquid gel, no imbalance will disturb the driving. It does not damage the inside of the tire and does not prevent repairs. It also limits the usual loss of pressure. Most of these products are compatible with the pressure control devices built into the valves of some motorcycle models.

Chain. Many GT and custom motorcycles have a low-maintenance (oil change) cardan shaft or belt drive. For the others, the chain is always relevant. The maintenance of the chain kit is a regular operation that includes lubrication and tensioning. The frequency of lubrication and tensioning depends on the conditions of use, the mileage covered since the last maintenance and the type of chain installed.

The O-ring chain is found on almost all motorcycles that use the chain as a drive system. The chain links are protected by lifetime lubricated rollers. The O-rings are designed to seal the rollers and protect the pins from external contamination. Although this extends the life of the chain, it is still necessary to regularly lubricate the outside of the rollers that connect to the sprockets and crown of the rest of the chain kit. The low-friction chain is an O-ring chain design with cross-shaped seals instead of cylindrical seals. It has a longer life than a traditional O-ring chain. More than a minority, chains without O-rings are only found today on certain small displacement or competition models. They require very frequent lubrication.
For cleaning and tensioning operations, first clean the chain with a suitable product sold on the market, or even de-aromatized petroleum. Never use gasoline, which would damage the O-rings. Then spray a fine continuous stream of grease on the inside of the chain while turning the wheel by hand (center stand) or moving the bike gradually. At the end of the operation, wipe off the excess grease.
Avoid over-tensioning the chain. On the one hand, this increases the risk of it breaking. On the other hand, a chain that is too taut will wear out the chain and the parts in contact with it. Before a trip, especially a two-person trip, make sure that the chain has enough range. Chain tension increases when the bike is loaded. So, simply adjust the tension once the bike is equipped with its load."

Engine and transmission oil. The right amount of engine oil ensures that the engine runs smoothly. Check the oil level by doing so with the bike upright and on level ground. For a trip of several thousand kilometers, an oil change may be necessary before leaving. If you own a motorcycle with a cardan shaft, remember that the oil specific to this transmission component must be changed periodically.

The coolant. The coolant should be changed approximately every two or three years or 40,000 km (as a general rule). Beyond that, its anti-corrosion, lubricating and anti-freeze capacities become very weak, or even null.

Brakes. The wear of the front and rear brake pads must be checked with the utmost care. Brake pads that are too worn out make a sound that signals a necessary change... It is best to avoid reaching this point. In addition to regular visual checks of the brake pads, checking the brake fluid level will give you an idea of the state of wear reached. Also remember to change the brake fluid itself regularly.

Headlights and signal lights. The cleanliness of the headlight optics is an important factor in the quality of the lighting. Clean it regularly and before you leave. Since 2004, the European Union has made it mandatory for new motorcycles to have automatic low beam headlights. In addition, and regardless of engine size, the lighting of this light has become mandatory day and night for all motorcycles since 2007.

With a loaded motorcycle, the area covered by the lights changes, the beam shines higher, at the risk of dazzling the vehicles coming in front, or even of not lighting the road at all. It is therefore necessary to adjust the lights during a trial run with the load of the trip.
Change the bulbs before leaving if you think that your high and low beams are not bright enough. A short trip at night will allow you to measure their efficiency. You should not only check the low and high beam bulbs (often the same bulb with different filaments) but also those of the turn signals, the position lights and the stop lights.
For xenon bulbs, in addition to the risk of dazzling other users, you should know that a motorcycle approved with a halogen light cannot be fitted with a xenon light, even if it is indicated as approved, otherwise the conformity of the vehicle will be questioned. This could lead to a sanction by the police, but also to a refusal of compensation by your insurer in case of an accident.

Guidance and driving assistance tools

Long gone are the days when paper and directional signs were our only aids on the road. With the technological progress of the last few years, it is now possible to use much more sophisticated tools to follow or find your way. Of course, the map fans will always find something to complain about, especially about the adventure aspect which is no longer there... But this aspect becomes much less interesting when the night falls, when it rains, when you are tired and you can't read the soaked paper on the roadside anymore. On the other hand, if you are addicted to high-tech, it will still be very useful to have a map and some notes on a notebook when the phone network will be out of order, when the GPS signal will be lost or when the battery of the GPS box will be flat.

The road book. If you know precisely the route to take, the easiest way is to draw up a road book, with the different stages, the names of the roads, the distances between each change of direction... This road book can be established from a map or a road atlas, on which you will have highlighted the routes to be taken, or calculated by computer, either with a dedicated software, or on the Internet with the help of free or not websites (roadbookmoto.fr, moto-trip.com, etc.), or even by using the options offered by the big computerized cartography companies (Google Maps, Mappy, Bing, Michelin and others). Then, you just have to print it and put it in your map reader.

Road maps. For a long trip, even with an updated GPS and a road book, road maps are essential. They are the only thing that will allow you to have an overview of the region you are traveling through and to prepare more easily your next step, or even to take the right decisions to bypass the road in case of a problem (accident, road cut...). The reference, for France and many other countries, remains the Michelin map, especially with its famous "green roads", essential to define your itinerary on picturesque and sometimes unknown roads. On a smaller scale, the IGN maps provide very precise information on the relief and vegetation. However, the legibility of the roads is not always good.

Opt for waterproof and tearproof maps, which are becoming more and more common, for an acceptable extra cost. The only drawback is that it is not always easy to trace or mark with a pencil on their smooth surface.

GPS (Global Positioning System). In its basic use, the GPS allows you to join two points without risk of error or getting lost along the way: you are permanently located thanks to signals transmitted by satellites. If its interest is minor when using long distance routes, it becomes very important when crossing big cities and their agglomerations, when the map is not precise enough and cannot be consulted without risk of accident. The additional help provided by voice guidance is incomparable.

In "thoughtful" use, your route can be entered step by step or with the help of dedicated software. The major GPS brands also offer their own planners (Base Camp for Garmin, Mydrive for Tom Tom...). The GPS will then allow you to discover all the roads, sights, drop-off points whose coordinates you have determined in advance.
All GPS manufacturers produce devices with most of the functions offered by the driving assistants.

Driver assistance systems (DAS). Radar detectors or warnings, banned since 2012, have been replaced by driver assistance systems (DAS).

Depending on the models and options available, these assistants indicate "danger zones" (speed cameras, traffic jams, work zones, etc.), as well as speeding violations. Coyote, Wikango and Inforad are among the best known manufacturers. All rely on a database updated in real time by the community of users.
In addition to the products sold with boxes, many driving assistance applications, some of which are free, have been developed for cell phones (Avertinoo, ICoyote, Wikango HD, Waze...) and many GPS devices now have identical functions.

The smartphone. A real all-purpose tool, the smartphone combines the advantages of the GPS and of the driving assistance assistant. If it can be an interesting alternative to the latter, several points must be taken into account for your smartphone to be truly competitive:

- Waterproofing. Most smartphones today are waterproof but their degree of protection against water can vary greatly from one device to another. The IP (Ingress Protection) gives you the indication of protection against dust (1st number from 0 to 6) and against water (2nd number from 0 to 9) of your device. The higher the number, the better the device's water resistance.
- Shock resistance. A good shell and an adequate attachment system should allow you to avoid any problem on this side.

- The autonomy in GPS operation. This is one of the weak points of many smartphones. More than one hour of autonomy with a high screen brightness will often be problematic to achieve. All the more so as your battery life will have to be preserved for all other occasions of use of your smartphone (call and reception of calls, Internet access, emergency calls...).

- Processor heating, always in GPS operation. It can quickly become a problem, especially in summer when the outside temperature and continuous exposure to the sun can cause your processor to crash.

Effective charging capacity while driving. Some devices will not charge fast enough while using your smartphone in GPS mode.

- Use with gloves. Although many smartphone screens have a very good touch response, not all of them are suitable for use with gloves ....

Finally, just to talk about the GPS applications available for your smartphone, if Google and Waze seem to be perfect for basic use, they are however less well adapted than others like Osmond for route building. Do not hesitate to search on the web for the one that will suit you best, whether you pay for it or not.

Precautions for use abroad. Be careful when crossing the borders, because some countries do not allow driving assistants, including when these functions are on GPS, nor cell phone applications of the same type. This is notably the case in Switzerland (which goes as far as to prohibit the transport of these devices with very high fines and confiscation of the incriminated equipment - see Article 98a of the Federal Law on Road Traffic).

Information to know and to update

If leaving for a few hours in the middle of summer on the roads we know does not require much preparation, it is quite different when we leave for unknown regions. Arriving at the end of the day at your destination without having worried about traffic jams, the right clothing or the risk of running out of gas, deserves that you take the time to get informed before your departure.

Know the traffic situation. The best way to avoid traffic problems is, when possible, to leave before or after the major transhumance. When this is not possible, or when you are planning a short weekend getaway, there are websites that help you avoid traffic. The Bison Futé site is always among the most complete, especially with its yearly forecasts. For the highway, use www.autoroutes.fr. Of course, you can also rely on the indications given by GPS with the appropriate application (paid or not depending on the model) and free applications such as Google Maps, Bing, Mappy, ViaMichelin. Waze, for its part, is only accessible through your smartphone.

Follow the weather forecast. Unlike the car driver, the motorcyclist can't ignore the weather. Without a roof or air-conditioning, he feels the whims of the sky directly. So it's a good idea to find out what weather conditions you're likely to encounter. TV channels and general radio stations offer rather inaccurate information. For the precision of the data and their permanent update, prefer the Web sites. In the mountains or at the seaside, where weather conditions are crucial, places like the tourist office or the harbour office (in ports) display weather reports. In any case, remember that meteorology is not yet an exact science and that forecasts for more than three days are only about 60% reliable.

Locate gas stations. When traveling, the relative autonomy of most motorcycles requires frequent trips to the pump. This is especially true when you're loaded or riding fast, and you'll probably use more gas than you normally would. Before leaving or during the trip, find out which gas stations are on your route or nearby to avoid running out of gas. In some sparsely populated areas, there may be roads with no stations within 50 km. In border areas, for example near the Spanish border, the significant price difference has caused many pumps to disappear. The smartphone applications Essence&Co, Fuell Flash or Gasoil Now are among the many applications that can be downloaded and used easily - if you have a network.

Even though most GPS and AAC systems, as well as countless smartphone applications, indicate which stations are close to you, the most sensible thing to do in "risky" areas is to fill up as soon as you run out of gas.

Anticipate the mechanical contingency

Despite all precautions, breakdowns and other technical problems can occur. Modern motorcycles are more and more reliable mechanically, but with today's electronics, it becomes more difficult to intervene oneself and the slightest problem often requires the motorcycle to be taken to the garage.

The minimum tools. To try to repair your motorcycle yourself, when possible, it is better not to have sacrificed the original tools before leaving to save space. Flat and Phillips screwdrivers, allen (hex) or torx (star) wrenches and a few wrenches adapted to your most common bolts are the minimum you need if you build your own toolbox. For long trips, remember to pack heavy-duty tape, protective gloves and a rag. For trips away from major urban centers, consider packing a flexible polyethylene jerry can. It can be folded up, takes up very little space and costs only a few euros.

Spare fuses and bulbs. Your fuse box (there are often several on the same machine) originally contained some. However, check this before you leave. As for bulbs, remember that you have only one headlight and one tail light. You'll be completely invisible from the front or the back if one of them fails you on the road, and it's sometimes hard to find the right bulb. Have spare bulbs on hand, even if they can only be replaced in a shop. At least you can be sure you have the right model. Keep these bulbs in a waterproof box and protected from vibrations, for example by wrapping them in paper.

The anti-puncture kit. A puncture is a risk that can be minimized by using a preventive anti-puncture product such as Wheelsecure or Restom (French products!), or Ride-On, which can easily be put in your tires before you leave. However, ask about the compatibility of the product with the pressure sensors that may be fitted to your machine and about the maximum speed allowed by the product. When the puncture is there, an anti-puncture spray can be effective. It should not be used if you have the pressure sensors mentioned above. However, on a tubeless tire, it is better to use a repair kit that allows you to place a wick and inject the contents of a gas cartridge to drive to the next garage. The tire can then be repaired by a professional by placing a part from the inside (the only authorized repair for tubeless tires). Don't keep a makeshift repair: you run the risk of seeing your tire deflate in the days that follow, or even suddenly while driving.

The vehicle documents. This is where you'll find a lot of useful information, including electronic malfunction indications that may appear on your dashboard. Finding the location of the fuse box can also help, not to mention the phone numbers of the brand's dealers or the various serial numbers, which are always requested in case of a breakdown. If you can't take the manual with you in hard copy, make a scanned copy and have it on your smartphone.

The high visibility vest. Since January1, 2016, drivers of two and three-wheeled motorized vehicles have been required to carry a high-visibility vest in order to be visible in the event of a breakdown or accident. Take two if you have a passenger.

Transporting your motorcycle

Putting your machine on a trailer towed by a car is the cheapest way to transport your motorcycle. On condition that you have a car! Moreover, if transporting your motorcycle on a trailer is easy on your machine, it does not save a long journey, often on freeways and sometimes in traffic jams. In order to arrive fresh and ready at the place of vacation, the call to a transporter is a solution which is certainly more expensive, but which needs to be considered.

Use a trailer. There is no specific legislation for motorcycle trailers in France. It is thus necessary to refer to the texts concerning trailers in general. If you go abroad, refer to the regulations in force in the country, whether it is about tolls, speed or access to certain roads.

When choosing a motorcycle trailer, in addition to its general characteristics (size, stability, wheel diameter, number of anchoring points, etc.), you should pay particular attention to its GVW. The less expensive ones have a limited GVWR (for example 250 kg) which does not allow the installation of big bikes, knowing that a trailer weighs at least 50 kg when empty.
For a single use, it is possible to rent a trailer, from individuals or professionals, some of whom are both sellers and renters.
Whether you are buying or renting, you should also remember that a ramp is needed to access your trailer and that it must be able to support the weight of your machine on a single rail.
To mount your motorcycle on the trailer, it is preferable to have two people. Concerning the securing of your machine, do not play with fire and provide ratchet straps with a minimum of five, one of which will serve as a spare. Two are reserved for the front and two for the rear. Do not use anchor points such as mufflers, suitcases, but rather the frame components. Moderately compress the suspension and remove the side stand. Preferably, tighten the front straps at 45° to your machine and the rear straps at 90° to the rear arm. Tighten the whole thing gradually, carefully avoiding all points of friction with painted or fragile elements.
Once on the road, keep an eye on your trailer as much as possible with your mirrors. Stop frequently to check the tension of the straps. They will always loosen, especially if it is windy or the road is bad.

Regulations for towing a trailer. You can tow a trailer with a B license under two conditions: that the total weight of the load (trailer and motorcycle) does not exceed 750 kg of GVW (gross vehicle weight); knowing that a motorcycle rarely weighs more than 350 kg, there is a good margin. And if your GVW exceeds 750 kg, but is less than 3.5 tons, you can still tow with a B license if the total weight of the vehicle does not exceed 4.25 tons. In the other cases, a specific training or a permit is necessary. Please refer to the reform of the permits in force since January 19, 2013 (see for example the website https://permisdeconduire.ants.gouv.fr/Tout-savoir-sur-le-permis-de-conduire/Les-categories-du-permis-de-conduire). In particular, above 3.5 tons for a trailer and up to 4.25 tons for the car and trailer combination, an additional training of 7 hours is necessary and the mention 96 is added to the B license. The BE category (which replaced the EB license) concerns combinations where the total weight of the trailer is between 750 kg and 3.5 tons, and where the sum of the total weight of the car and trailer exceeds 4.25 tons. If the total weight of the trailer exceeds 3.5 tons, the C1E category is required.

Under 500 kg of GVW, the trailer must have the same plate as the towing vehicle and is covered by the latter's insurance.
If the GVW exceeds 500 kg, the trailer must be declared (different registration card and license plate from the towing vehicle). Its insurance will generally remain included with that of the towing vehicle up to 750 kg.
Beyond 750 kg of GVW, the trailer must be equipped with brakes. These brakes are also mandatory if the GVW is greater than 50% of the unladen weight of the towing vehicle. The trailer must be covered by an additional insurance.

Usea road transporter. The SNCF stopped its Auto-Train service in 2020. It is now its partner, Hiflow, who will take care of the transport of your motorcycle between two relay points. Your motorcycle is insured by default up to 1 000€, you can add an all risks insurance. From relay point to relay point, it is delivered on average 15 days after being picked up.

Don't hesitate to compare Hiflow's rates and insurance conditions with those of other road transporters who will often offer you address-to-address delivery. In any case, be present when you pick up your motorcycle and check the straps (marks on the paint, on the fairing, etc.).
Take a picture of your motorcycle before its departure, in order to be able to justify its previous state in case of breakage noted at the arrival.

Latest tips

Are you ready? Almost ready to go? Then here is a summary of the essentials. Warning: what follows does not take into account all the preparation which is spread over several weeks (budget, choice of the country and conditions of entry and circulation, insurance conditions...), the list of personal belongings to take, nor the complete check-up of the motorcycle and the purchases of accessories, maps, specific equipment...

Several weeks before departure. Buy or order the electronic toll cards or badges necessary for your trip. If your trip goes beyond the borders of France, you may be confronted with the need to have an environmental sticker to cross certain cities. The Green-Zones.eu website (www.green-zones.eu) allows you to know everything about the different European vignettes and to acquire them if necessary.

A few days before departure. Update your GPS and make a copy in a virtual safe of your important documents (on www.service-public.fr, for example). If you are going abroad, register on the Ariane site of France Diplomatie.

When loading. This operation should be done if possible the day before or several hours before departure. Place the heaviest objects close to the center of gravity of the motorcycle, or as low as possible, preferably in the side cases. Avoid loading the tank bag or top case heavily. Leave the fuse box(es) and the battery free to access after having identified their location. The same goes for the essentials: anti-theft device, puncture protection, tool kit, etc. After loading, check the lighting height of your headlights and make sure that the tire pressure is adapted to the load.

When you leave. Check your levels. Check that you have the following documents: driver's license, identity card, vehicle registration document, insurance certificate, pre-filled European accident report, contact addresses in France, maintenance manual (in computer format). If you are going abroad, don't forget to take your European social security card, your proof of complementary health insurance and the details of your repatriation assistance (which you must take out).

Finally, don't forget the spare keys (ignition and suitcases, but also antitheft), the connection cables and the chargers you will need (intercom, telephone, GPS...).

Storing your motorcycle

Some riders use their bikes all year round, whether for daily commuting, weekend rides or travel. Others, as soon as the bad days of autumn arrive, decide to let their motorcycle hibernate and to take it out only in spring. Certain precautions should be taken to make sure you get off to a good start when the weather turns warm.

Parking. More than the cold, you must protect your bike from rain and humidity at all costs. The best place to park your bike is in a sheltered area or even a heated garage. If you park your motorcycle in a yard, on the street or on an exposed spot, protect it as best you can with a specific motorcycle cover. The material must be waterproof and allow air to circulate so as not to encourage rust. Position the motorcycle on the center stand, if it has one, to spare the tires and shock absorbers.

The battery. As soon as the first days of cold weather arrive and you know that your motorcycle will be parked for several weeks, think about your battery. Here, the enemy is not rust, but the cold that discharges. Remove your battery and store it in a safe place or invest in a battery optimizer. This can be plugged in permanently (but check the instructions) and will automatically provide a proper charge if your battery voltage drops below a certain limit.

Liquids and tires. Fill up the tank to prevent the air from rusting it. For motorcycles without fuel injection, drain the carburetors to prevent them from clogging. Another solution is to fill up the tank and add a conservative additive. When restarting the motorcycle at the end of the storage period, an oil change will not hurt and it will be imperative to check the pressure of the tires which will have deflated.