Prepare your trip

Preparing the bike

Here are the essential parts of your motorcycle that you'll need to check before you set off. If certain operations prove too tedious or technical, don't hesitate to bring forward the technical inspection of your machine or request one to check the essential points. This could be the price of your peace of mind. Don't be surprised by the time it takes to get an appointment with your mechanic - you're not the only one who wants to go on vacation on a motorcycle!

Tires. We sometimes forget it, but tires are an essential safety component, being the only link between the road and the motorcycle. The stresses to which they will be subjected on a trip call for a careful inspection of their appearance and pressure. A close look will reveal any cuts or other irregularities that could ultimately threaten the integrity of the tire. Ideally, you should avoid having to replace them during your trip. By law, tires must be replaced when any groove measured is less than 1.6 millimeters deep. Take into account the distance you plan to travel and the extra weight of your load, which will accelerate wear. What's more, a tire with more than 50% wear greatly increases the risk of a puncture, especially at the rear.

Be careful when changing tires: they will be particularly slippery for the first few kilometers. Rode them over their entire surface for a hundred or so kilometers to ensure complete grip. If you're going on a long trip, choose hard-compound road or sport tires. Soft sports tires have a very short lifespan (often less than 5,000 km), at least on the scale of a long trip.
Smooth driving, without heavy acceleration or hard braking, extends tire life (and incidentally uses less fuel and saves on brake pads).
You should also check tire pressure. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations in your driver's manual, and often on a sticker on your machine. Tire pressure should preferably be checked when the tires are cold (the measured pressure of a warm tire increases by around 0.3 bar, even more in hot weather). Check tire pressure every 1,000 km or so. Gas stations with working pressure gauges and compressors (available free of charge) are becoming increasingly rare. What's more, some inflator hoses are now extended by a rigid handle, making it difficult, if not impossible, to access the valves on some motorcycle models. A pocket-sized pressure gauge is inexpensive, takes up very little space and does a lot of good. At worst, you'll find free inflators near major motorway toll booths. Off the freeway, ask garages and car maintenance centers. They all have a compressor and will usually be happy to let safety-conscious motorcyclists use them. In the open country, remember that every self-respecting farmer also has a compressor on the farm.
During this period of preparation, think about applying a preventive anti-puncture product. This type of product is marketed by several brands. Although it's based on a semi-liquid gel, there's no imbalance to disrupt the ride. It does not damage the inside of the tire, and does not prevent repairs. It also limits the usual loss of pressure. Most of these products are compatible with the pressure control devices built into the valves of certain motorcycle models.

Chain. Many GT and custom motorcycles have a low-maintenance cardan shaft (oil change) or belt drive. For the others, the chain is still the best choice. Chain kit maintenance is a regular operation involving lubrication and tensioning. The frequency of lubrication and tensioning depends on the conditions of use, the mileage covered since the last service and the type of chain installed.

Found on virtually all motorcycles using chain drives, O-ring chains are made up of links whose connecting pins are protected by permanently lubricated rollers. The O-rings seal the rollers and protect the pins from external contamination. Although this extends the chain's service life, it is still necessary to regularly lubricate the outside of the rollers that connect to the sprockets and crown gear of the rest of the chain kit. The low-friction chain is an O-ring design, with cross-shaped joints instead of cylindrical ones. Its service life is longer than that of a traditional O-ring chain. More than a minority, O-ringless chains are now found only on certain small-displacement or competition models. They require very frequent lubrication.
For cleaning and tensioning operations, first clean the chain with a suitable commercially available product, or even aromatized petroleum. Never use petrol, as it will damage the O-rings. Then spray a fine, continuous stream of spray grease onto the inside of the chain, while turning the wheel by hand (center stand) or moving the motorcycle gradually. At the end of the operation, wipe off any excess grease.
Avoid over-tensioning the chain. On the one hand, this increases the risk of chain breakage. On the other hand, a chain that is too taut encourages wear and tear on the chain and the parts in contact with it. Before setting off on a trip, especially for two people, check that the chain has sufficient amplitude. Chain tension increases when the motorcycle is loaded. Simply adjust the tension once the bike is fully loaded.

Engine and transmission oil. The right amount of motor oil ensures that the engine runs smoothly. Check the oil level with the bike upright and on level ground. For journeys of several thousand kilometers, an oil change may be necessary before setting off. And if you own a motorcycle with a universal joint, remember that the oil specific to this transmission unit must be changed periodically.

Coolant. Coolant should be changed every two or three years, or 40,000 km as a general rule. Beyond that, its anti-corrosion, lubricating and antifreeze properties become very weak, or even non-existent.

Brakes. Front and rear brake pads must be checked for wear with the utmost care. Brake pads that are too worn make a sound that signals a need for replacement... It's best to avoid reaching that point. In addition to regular visual checks of the brake pads, checking the brake fluid level will give you an idea of how worn they are. Remember also to change the brake fluid regularly.

Headlights and signal lights. The cleanliness of headlight lenses plays a major role in the quality of lighting. Clean them regularly and before setting off. Since 2004, the European Union has made it compulsory for new motorcycles to have automatic low-beam headlights. What's more, since 2007 it has been compulsory for all motorcycles, regardless of engine size, to have their low beam on day and night.

With a loaded motorcycle, the area covered by the lights changes, with the beam shining higher up, at the risk of dazzling oncoming traffic, or not illuminating the road at all. It's a good idea to adjust your headlights during a trial run with the trip's load.
Change your bulbs before setting off if you feel that your high and low beams are no longer illuminating the road sufficiently. A short trip at night will show you how effective they are. It's important to check not only the low and high beam bulbs (often the same bulb with different filaments), but also those for the indicators, parking lights and brake lights.
As for xenon bulbs, apart from the risk of dazzling other road users, you should be aware that a motorcycle approved with a halogen light cannot be fitted with a xenon light, even if it is marked as approved, otherwise the vehicle's conformity will be called into question. This could result in penalties from the police, but also in your insurer refusing to pay compensation in the event of an accident.

Guidance and driving assistance tools

Long gone are the days when paper and directional signs were our only aids on the road. With the technological advances of recent years, it is now possible to use much more sophisticated tools to follow or find your way. Of course, hardcore map fans will always have something to complain about, particularly the adventure aspect, which is no longer there... But this aspect becomes much less interesting when night falls, it rains, you're tired and can no longer decipher the soaked paper on the side of the road. On the other hand, if you're a high-tech addict, you'll still find it very useful to have a map and a few notes on a notepad when the telephone network fails, the GPS signal is lost or the battery on your GPS unit dies.

The road book. If you know exactly what route you want to take, the easiest thing to do is to draw up a road book, listing the various stages, the names of the roads, the distances between each change of direction... This road book can be drawn up from a map or road atlas, on which you will have highlighted the routes to be taken, or calculated by computer, either with dedicated software, or on the Internet with the help of free or not-free websites (roadbookmoto.fr, moto-trip.com, etc.), or even by using the options offered by the big names in computerized cartography (Google Maps, Mappy, Bing, Michelin and others). Then simply print it out and slip it into your map reader.

Road maps. For a long trip, even with an up-to-date GPS and road book, road maps are indispensable. They're the only thing that will give you an overview of the region you're passing through, making it easier to prepare for the next day's stage, or even to make the right decisions about bypassing the road in the event of a problem (accident, road closure...). The benchmark for France and many other countries is the Michelin map, with its famous "green routes", a must for defining your itinerary on picturesque and sometimes little-known roads. On a smaller scale, IGN maps provide very precise indications of relief and vegetation. However, roads are not always easy to read.

Opt for waterproof, tear-proof maps, which are becoming more and more widespread, at an acceptable extra cost. The only drawback is that it's not always easy to trace or pencil remarks on their smooth surface.

GPS (Global Positioning System). In its most basic form, GPS enables you to reach two points without the risk of making a mistake or getting lost along the way: you are constantly located thanks to signals transmitted by satellites. While this is of minor interest when using long-distance routes, it becomes very important when crossing large towns and cities, when the map is no longer precise enough and cannot be consulted without risk of accident. The extra help provided by voice guidance is incomparable.

In "thoughtful" use, your route can be entered step by step, or using dedicated software. The major GPS brands also offer their own planners (Base Camp for Garmin, Mydrive for Tom Tom...). The GPS will then enable you to discover all the routes, sights and stopping-off points for which you have determined the coordinates in advance.
All GPS manufacturers produce devices with most of the functions offered by driver assistance systems.

Driver assistance systems (DAS). Radar detectors and alarms, banned since 2012, have been replaced by driver assistance systems (DAS).

Depending on the models and options available, these assistants warn of "danger zones" (speed cameras, traffic jams, roadworks, etc.), as well as speeding violations. Coyote, Wikango and Inforad are among the best-known manufacturers. All rely on a database updated in real time by the community of users.
In addition to products sold with boxes, numerous driving assistance applications, some of which are free, have been developed for cell phones (Avertinoo, ICoyote, Wikango HD, Waze...) and many GPS units now offer identical functions.

Smartphones. A true all-rounder, the smartphone combines the advantages of GPS and driver assistance. While it can be an interesting alternative to the latter, there are several points to bear in mind if your smartphone is to be truly competitive:

- Waterproofing. Most smartphones today are waterproof, but their degree of protection against water can vary greatly from one device to another. IP (Ingress Protection) gives you an indication of your device's protection against dust (^1st number from 0 to 6) and water (^2nd number from 0 to 9). The higher the number, the more waterproof the device.
- Shock resistance. A good casing and an adequate attachment system should help you avoid any problems in this area.

- GPS autonomy. This is one of the weak points of many smartphones. More than an hour's autonomy with high screen brightness is often difficult to achieve. All the more so as your battery life will need to be preserved for all other uses of your smartphone (making and receiving calls, Internet access, emergency calls...).

- Processor overheating, always in GPS mode. This can quickly become a problem, especially in summer when outside temperatures and continuous exposure to the sun can cause your processor to crash.

- Effective recharging capacity while driving. Some devices won't charge fast enough while your smartphone is in GPS mode.

- Use with gloves. Although many smartphone screens have a very good tactile response, not all of them are suitable for use with gloves...

Last but not least, when it comes to the GPS applications available for your smartphone, while Google and Waze seem perfect for basic use, they are less well suited than others such as Osmond for route building. Don't hesitate to search the web for the one that suits you best, whether you're paying for it or not.

Precautions for use abroad. Be careful when crossing borders, as some countries do not authorize driving assistants, even when these functions are GPS-based, nor cell phone applications of the same type. This is particularly the case in Switzerland (which goes so far as to prohibit the transport of such devices, with heavy fines and confiscation of the offending equipment - see Article 98a of the Federal Road Traffic Act).

Information to know and to update

While going for a few hours' ride in the middle of summer on familiar roads doesn't require much preparation, it's a different matter when you're heading off to unknown regions. Arriving at your destination at the end of the day without having thought about traffic jams, what to wear, or the risk of running out of petrol, you need to take the time to find out what's going on before you set off.

Know the traffic situation. Whenever possible, the best way to avoid traffic problems is to leave before or after the major transhumance events. If this isn't possible, or if you're planning a weekend getaway, there are websites that can help you avoid traffic jams. The Bison Futé site is always one of the most comprehensive, particularly with its year-round forecasts. For freeways, use www.autoroutes.fr. Of course, you can also rely on the directions given by GPS systems with the appropriate application (with or without a fee, depending on the model) and free applications such as Google Maps, Bing, Mappy and ViaMichelin. Waze, on the other hand, can only be accessed via your smartphone.

Follow the weather forecast. Unlike car drivers, motorcyclists can't ignore the weather. Without a roof or air-conditioning, they feel the whims of the sky directly. So it's a good idea to find out what weather conditions you're likely to encounter. General-interest TV and radio stations offer fairly imprecise information. For accurate and constantly updated data, you're better off using websites. In the mountains or by the sea, where weather conditions are decisive, places like the tourist office or harbor master's office (in ports) post weather reports. In any case, remember that meteorology is not yet an exact science, and that forecasts more than three days ahead are only 60% reliable.

Locate gas stations. When traveling, the relative autonomy of most motorcycles requires frequent stops at the pump. All the more so when you're loaded up or riding fast, as you're likely to consume more fuel than usual. Before you leave or during your journey, find out which gas stations are on your route or nearby, to avoid running out of fuel. In some sparsely populated regions, you may find that there are no gas stations within a 50 km radius. In border areas, for example near the Spanish border, the significant price difference has caused many pumps to disappear. The Essence&Co, Fuell Flash or Gasoil Now smartphone applications are just some of the many that can be downloaded and used easily - if you have a network.

Even though most GPS and AAC systems, as well as countless smartphone apps, indicate which stations are close to you, the sensible thing to do in "at-risk" areas is to fill up as soon as you've used up half your tank.

Anticipate the mechanical contingency

Despite all precautions, breakdowns and other technical problems are bound to occur. Modern motorcycles are more and more reliable mechanically, but with today's electronics, it's becoming more and more difficult to intervene oneself, and the slightest problem often requires the motorcycle to be taken to the garage.

Minimum tools. When it's possible to repair your motorcycle yourself, it's best not to have sacrificed the original tools before you leave to save space. Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, allen (hexagonal) or torx (star) keys and a few wrenches for your most common bolts are the minimum you need if you're building your own toolbox. For long journeys, remember to pack strong adhesive tape, protective gloves and a cloth. For trips away from major urban centers, remember to pack a flexible polyethylene jerrycan. Foldable, it takes up very little space and costs just a few euros.

Spare fuses and bulbs. Your fuse box (there are often several on the same machine) originally contains them. Check this before you leave. As for bulbs, remember that you only have one headlight and one tail light. You'll be totally invisible from the front or the rear if one of them fails you on the road, and it's sometimes difficult to find the right bulb model. Make sure you have spare bulbs, even if they can only be replaced in a workshop. At least you can be sure you have the right model. Store these bulbs in an airtight box, protected from vibrations by wrapping them in paper, for example.

Anti-puncture kit. Punctures are a risk that can be minimized by using a preventive anti-puncture product such as Wheelsecure or Restom (French products!), or Ride-On, which can be easily applied to your tires before you set off. You should, however, check the product's compatibility with the pressure sensors that may be fitted to your machine, and the maximum speed allowed by the product. When a puncture does occur, an anti-puncture spray can prove effective. It should not be used if you have the pressure sensors mentioned above. However, on tubeless tires, it's best to use a repair kit that allows you to place a wick and inject the contents of a gas cartridge to drive to the next garage. The tire can then be repaired by a professional by fitting a patch from the inside (the only repair authorized for tubeless tires). Don't keep any makeshift repairs: you run the risk of seeing your tire deflate in the days that follow, or even suddenly while driving.

Vehicle documents. They contain a wealth of useful information, including indications of electronic faults that may appear on your dashboard. Finding the location of the fuse box can also help, not to mention the telephone numbers of the brand's dealers or the various serial numbers, which are always requested in the event of a breakdown. If you can't take the manual with you in hard copy, make a digital copy and keep it on your smartphone.

High-visibility vest. Since January¹, 2016, drivers of two- and three-wheeled motorized vehicles have been required to carry a high-visibility vest on board their vehicle so they can be seen in the event of a breakdown or accident. Take two if you have a passenger.

Transporting your motorcycle

Putting your machine on a trailer towed by a car is the cheapest way to transport your motorcycle. Provided you have a car! What's more, while transporting your motorcycle on a trailer is gentle on your machine, it doesn't save you a long journey, often on freeways and sometimes in traffic jams. To arrive fresh and ready at your vacation destination, hiring a transporter is a more expensive solution, but one worth considering.

Use a trailer. There is no specific legislation governing motorcycle trailers in France. You should therefore refer to the texts concerning trailers in general. If you're going abroad, refer to the regulations in force in your country, whether they concern tolls, speed limits or access to certain roads.

When choosing a motorcycle trailer, in addition to its general characteristics (size, stability, wheel diameter, number of anchoring points, etc.), pay particular attention to its GVW. The least expensive trailers have a limited GVWR (e.g. 250 kg), which means that they cannot be used by large motorcycles, bearing in mind that a trailer weighs at least 50 kg when empty.
For one-off use, you can rent a trailer from private individuals or professionals, some of whom are both sellers and renters.
Whether you're buying or renting, remember that you'll need a ramp to access your trailer, and that it must be able to support the weight of your machine on a single rail.
It's best to mount your motorcycle on the trailer in pairs. When it comes to securing your machine, don't play with fire, and provide ratchet straps with a minimum of five, one of which will serve as a spare. Two are reserved for the front and two for the rear. Don't use anchor points such as mufflers or suitcases, but rather frame components. Moderately compress the suspension and remove the side stand. Preferably, tension the front straps at 45° to your machine and the rear straps at 90° to the rear arm. Tension the straps gradually, carefully avoiding any points of friction with painted or fragile parts.
Once you're on the road, keep a close eye on your trailer with your rear-view mirrors. Stop frequently to check the tension of the straps. They will systematically loosen, especially in windy or rough conditions.

Regulations for towing a trailer. You can tow a trailer with a B license on two conditions: that the total weight of the load (trailer and motorcycle) does not exceed 750 kg GVW (gross vehicle weight); given that a motorcycle rarely weighs more than 350 kg, there's a good margin. And if your GVW still exceeds 750 kg, but is less than 3.5 tonnes, you can still tow with a B licence if the total weight of the vehicle does not exceed 4.25 tonnes. In all other cases, specific training or a permit is required. For more information, refer to the reform of driving licenses in force since January 19, 2013 (see, for example, permisdeconduire.ants.gouv.fr/tout-savoir-sur-le-permis/les-categories-du-permis-de-conduire). Above 3.5 tons for a trailer, and up to 4.25 tons for a combination of car and trailer, an additional 7 hours' training is required, and the 96 endorsement is added to the B license. Category BE (which replaced the EB license) applies to combinations where the trailer's GVWR is between 750 kg and 3.5 tonnes, and the sum of the GVWRs (car and trailer) exceeds 4.25 tonnes. If the trailer's GVW exceeds 3.5 tonnes, category C1E is required.

Under 500 kg GVW, the trailer must have the same number plate as the towing vehicle, and is covered by the latter's insurance.
If the GVW exceeds 500 kg, the trailer must be registered (with a different vehicle registration document and number plate from the towing vehicle). Up to 750 kg, trailer insurance is generally included with that of the towing vehicle.
Above 750 kg GVW, the trailer must be fitted with brakes. These brakes are also compulsory if the GVW exceeds 50% of the unladen weight of the towing vehicle. The trailer must be additionally insured.

Use a road haulier. The SNCF discontinued its Auto-Train service in 2020. Its partner, Hiflow, will now take care of transporting your motorcycle between two relay points. Your motorcycle is insured up to €1,000 by default, but you can add comprehensive insurance. From relay point to relay point, your motorcycle is delivered on average 15 days after pick-up.

Don't hesitate to compare Hiflow's rates and insurance conditions with those of other road hauliers, who will often offer you address-to-address delivery. In all cases, be present when your motorcycle is loaded, and check the straps (marks on the paintwork, fairing, etc.).
Take a photo of your motorcycle before it leaves, so that you can prove its previous condition in the event of breakage on arrival.

Latest tips

Are you ready? Almost ready to go? Then here is a summary of the essentials. Warning: what follows does not take into account all the preparation which is spread over several weeks (budget, choice of the country and conditions of entry and circulation, insurance conditions...), the list of personal belongings to take, nor the complete check-up of the motorcycle and the purchases of accessories, maps, specific equipment...

Several weeks before departure. Buy or order the electronic toll cards or badges necessary for your trip. If your trip goes beyond the borders of France, you may be confronted with the need to have an environmental sticker to cross certain cities. The Green-Zones.eu website (www.green-zones.eu) allows you to know everything about the different European vignettes and to acquire them if necessary.

A few days before departure. Update your GPS and make a copy in a virtual safe of your important documents (on www.service-public.fr, for example). If you are going abroad, register on the Ariane site of France Diplomatie.

When loading. This operation should be done if possible the day before or several hours before departure. Place the heaviest objects close to the center of gravity of the motorcycle, or as low as possible, preferably in the side cases. Avoid loading the tank bag or top case heavily. Leave the fuse box(es) and the battery free to access after having identified their location. The same goes for the essentials: anti-theft device, puncture protection, tool kit, etc. After loading, check the lighting height of your headlights and make sure that the tire pressure is adapted to the load.

When you leave. Check your levels. Check that you have the following documents: driver's license, identity card, vehicle registration document, insurance certificate, pre-filled European accident report, contact addresses in France, maintenance manual (in computer format). If you are going abroad, don't forget to take your European social security card, your proof of complementary health insurance and the details of your repatriation assistance (which you must take out).

Finally, don't forget the spare keys (ignition and suitcases, but also antitheft), the connection cables and the chargers you will need (intercom, telephone, GPS...).

Storing your motorcycle

Some riders use their bikes all year round, whether for daily commuting, weekend rides or travel. Others, as soon as the bad days of autumn arrive, decide to let their motorcycle hibernate and to take it out only in spring. Certain precautions should be taken to make sure you get off to a good start when the weather turns warm.

Parking. More than the cold, you must protect your bike from rain and humidity at all costs. The best place to park your bike is in a sheltered area or even a heated garage. If you park your motorcycle in a yard, on the street or on an exposed spot, protect it as best you can with a specific motorcycle cover. The material must be waterproof and allow air to circulate so as not to encourage rust. Position the motorcycle on the center stand, if it has one, to spare the tires and shock absorbers.

The battery. As soon as the first days of cold weather arrive and you know that your motorcycle will be parked for several weeks, think about your battery. Here, the enemy is not rust, but the cold that discharges. Remove your battery and store it in a safe place or invest in a battery optimizer. This can be plugged in permanently (but check the instructions) and will automatically provide a proper charge if your battery voltage drops below a certain limit.

Liquids and tires. Fill up the tank to prevent the air from rusting it. For motorcycles without fuel injection, drain the carburetors to prevent them from clogging. Another solution is to fill up the tank and add a conservative additive. When restarting the motorcycle at the end of the storage period, an oil change will not hurt and it will be imperative to check the pressure of the tires which will have deflated.