Prepare your trip

Preparing the bike

Here are the essential parts of the motorcycle that you will have to check before your departure. If some operations are too tedious or technical, do not hesitate to bring forward the technical visit of your machine or to ask for one to check the essential points. This could be the price of your peace of mind. Don't be surprised by the time it takes to get an appointment with your mechanic, you're not the only one who wants to go on vacation on a motorcycle!

Tires. We sometimes forget it, but tires are an essential safety device, being the only link between the road and the bike. The stresses they are going to be subjected to on a trip require a careful inspection of their appearance and pressure. A close look will reveal any cuts or other irregularities that could eventually threaten the integrity of the tire. Ideally, it is best to avoid having to replace them during the trip. By law, a tire must be replaced when any of the measured grooves are less than 1.6 millimeters deep. Take into account the distance you plan to travel and the extra weight of the load, which will accelerate wear. In addition, a tire that is more than 50% worn increases the risk of a puncture, especially at the rear.

Be careful if you change tires: they will be particularly slippery during the first few kilometers. Rode them over their entire surface for about 100 kilometers to ensure their complete adherence. If you are going on a long trip, choose hard-compound road or sport tires. Soft sport tires have a very short life (often less than 5,000 km), at least on a long trip.
Smooth driving, without hard acceleration or braking, will extend the life of the tires (and incidentally, use less gas and save brake pads).
You should also check your tire pressure. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations in the driver's manual, and often by a sticker on your machine. Tire pressure should preferably be checked when the tire is cold (the measured pressure of a warm tire increases by about 0.3 bar, even more in hot weather). Check the tire pressure approximately every 1,000 km. Gas stations with a working pressure gauge and compressor (available free of charge) are becoming increasingly rare. In addition, some inflator hoses are now extended with a rigid handle that makes it difficult, if not impossible, to access the valves on some motorcycle models. A pocket-sized pressure gauge is inexpensive, doesn't take up much space and does a lot of good. At worst, you can find free inflators near major highway toll booths. Outside of the highway, ask garages and car maintenance centers. They all have a compressor and are usually willing to let safety-conscious motorcyclists use them. In the countryside, remember that every self-respecting farmer also has a compressor on the farm.
During this period of preparation, think about using a preventive anti-puncture product. This type of product is marketed by several brands. Although it is based on a semi-liquid gel, no imbalance will disturb the driving. It does not damage the inside of the tire and does not prevent repairs. It also limits the usual loss of pressure. Most of these products are compatible with the pressure control devices built into the valves of some motorcycle models.

Chain. Many GT and custom motorcycles have a low-maintenance (oil change) cardan shaft or belt drive. For the others, the chain is always relevant. The maintenance of the chain kit is a regular operation that includes lubrication and tensioning. The frequency of lubrication and tensioning depends on the conditions of use, the mileage covered since the last maintenance and the type of chain installed.

The O-ring chain is found on almost all motorcycles that use the chain as a drive system. The chain links are protected by lifetime lubricated rollers. The O-rings are designed to seal the rollers and protect the pins from external contamination. Although this extends the life of the chain, it is still necessary to regularly lubricate the outside of the rollers that connect to the sprockets and crown of the rest of the chain kit. The low-friction chain is an O-ring chain design with cross-shaped seals instead of cylindrical seals. It has a longer life than a traditional O-ring chain. More than a minority, chains without O-rings are only found today on certain small displacement or competition models. They require very frequent lubrication.
For cleaning and tensioning operations, first clean the chain with a suitable product sold on the market, or even de-aromatized petroleum. Never use gasoline, which would damage the O-rings. Then spray a fine continuous stream of grease on the inside of the chain while turning the wheel by hand (center stand) or moving the bike gradually. At the end of the operation, wipe off the excess grease.
Avoid over-tensioning the chain. On the one hand, this increases the risk of it breaking. On the other hand, a chain that is too taut will wear out the chain and the parts in contact with it. Before a trip, especially a two-person trip, make sure that the chain has enough range. Chain tension increases when the bike is loaded. So, simply adjust the tension once the bike is equipped with its load."

Engine and transmission oil. The right amount of engine oil ensures that the engine runs smoothly. Check the oil level by doing so with the bike upright and on level ground. For a trip of several thousand kilometers, an oil change may be necessary before leaving. If you own a motorcycle with a cardan shaft, remember that the oil specific to this transmission component must be changed periodically.

The coolant. The coolant should be changed approximately every two or three years or 40,000 km (as a general rule). Beyond that, its anti-corrosion, lubricating and anti-freeze capacities become very weak, or even null.

Brakes. The wear of the front and rear brake pads must be checked with the utmost care. Brake pads that are too worn out make a sound that signals a necessary change... It is best to avoid reaching this point. In addition to regular visual checks of the brake pads, checking the brake fluid level will give you an idea of the state of wear reached. Also remember to change the brake fluid itself regularly.

Headlights and signal lights. The cleanliness of the headlight optics is an important factor in the quality of the lighting. Clean it regularly and before you leave. Since 2004, the European Union has made it mandatory for new motorcycles to have automatic low beam headlights. In addition, and regardless of engine size, the lighting of this light has become mandatory day and night for all motorcycles since 2007.

With a loaded motorcycle, the area covered by the lights changes, the beam shines higher, at the risk of dazzling the vehicles coming in front, or even of not lighting the road at all. It is therefore necessary to adjust the lights during a trial run with the load of the trip.
Change the bulbs before leaving if you think that your high and low beams are not bright enough. A short trip at night will allow you to measure their efficiency. You should not only check the low and high beam bulbs (often the same bulb with different filaments) but also those of the turn signals, the position lights and the stop lights.
For xenon bulbs, in addition to the risk of dazzling other users, you should know that a motorcycle approved with a halogen light cannot be fitted with a xenon light, even if it is indicated as approved, otherwise the conformity of the vehicle will be questioned. This could lead to a sanction by the police, but also to a refusal of compensation by your insurer in case of an accident.

Guidance and driving assistance tools

Long gone are the days when paper and directional signs were our only aids on the road. With the technological advances of recent years, it is now possible to use much more sophisticated tools to follow or find your way. Of course, hardcore map fans will always have something to complain about, notably the lack of adventure... But this aspect becomes much less interesting when night falls, it rains, you're tired and you can no longer decipher the soaked paper on the roadside. On the other hand, even the most high-tech addicts will still find it useful to keep a map and a few notes on a notepad warm when the telephone network fails, the GPS signal is lost or the battery of the same GPS unit is flat.

The road book. If you know exactly the route you want to take, the easiest thing to do is to draw up a road book, listing the various stages, the names of the roads, the distances between each change of direction... This road book can be drawn up from a map or road atlas, on which you will have highlighted the routes to be taken, or calculated by computer, either with dedicated software, or on the Internet with the help of free or not-free websites (roadbookmoto.fr, moto-trip.com, etc.), or even by using the options offered by the big names in computerized cartography (Google Maps, Mappy, Bing, Michelin and others). Then simply print it out and slip it into your map reader.

Road maps. For a long trip, even with an up-to-date GPS and road book, road maps are indispensable. They're the only thing that will give you an overview of the region you're passing through, making it easier to prepare for the next day's stage, or even to make the right decisions about bypassing the road in the event of a problem (accident, road closure...). The benchmark for France and many other countries is the Michelin map, with its famous "green routes", a must for defining your itinerary on picturesque and sometimes little-known roads. On a smaller scale, IGN maps provide very precise indications of relief and vegetation. However, roads are not always easy to read.

Opt for waterproof, tear-proof maps, which are becoming more and more widespread, at an acceptable extra cost. The only drawback is that it's not always easy to trace or pencil remarks on their smooth surface.

GPS (Global Positioning System). In its most basic form, GPS enables you to reach two points without the risk of making a mistake or getting lost along the way: you are constantly located thanks to signals transmitted by satellites. While this is of minor interest when using long-distance routes, it becomes very important when crossing large towns and cities, when the map is no longer precise enough and cannot be consulted without risk of accident. The extra help provided by voice guidance is incomparable.

In "thoughtful" use, your route can be entered step by step, or using dedicated software. The major GPS brands also offer their own planners (Base Camp for Garmin, Mydrive for Tom Tom...). The GPS will then enable you to discover all the routes, sights and stopping-off points for which you have determined the coordinates in advance.
All GPS manufacturers produce devices with most of the functions offered by driver assistance systems.

Driver assistance systems (DAS). Radar detectors and alarms, banned since 2012, have been replaced by driver assistance systems (DAS).

Depending on the models and options available, these assistants warn of "danger zones" (speed cameras, traffic jams, roadworks, etc.), as well as speeding violations. Coyote, Wikango and Inforad are among the best-known manufacturers. All rely on a database updated in real time by the community of users.
In addition to products sold with boxes, numerous driving assistance applications, some of which are free, have been developed for cell phones (Avertinoo, ICoyote, Wikango HD, Waze...) and many GPS units now offer identical functions.

The smartphone. A true all-rounder, the smartphone combines the advantages of GPS and driver assistance. While it can be an interesting alternative to the latter, there are several points to bear in mind if your smartphone is to be truly competitive:

- Waterproofing. Most smartphones today are waterproof, but their degree of protection against water can vary greatly from one device to another. IP (Ingress Protection) gives you an indication of your device's protection against dust (^1st number from 0 to 6) and water (^2nd number from 0 to 9). The higher the number, the more waterproof the device.
- Shock resistance. A good casing and an adequate attachment system should enable you to avoid any problems in this area.

- GPS autonomy. This is one of the weak points of many smartphones. More than an hour's autonomy with high screen brightness is often difficult to achieve. All the more so as your battery life will need to be preserved for all other uses of your smartphone (making and receiving calls, Internet access, emergency calls...).

- Processor overheating, always in GPS mode. This can quickly become a problem, especially in summer when the outside temperature and continuous exposure to the sun can cause your processor to crash.

Effective recharging capacity while driving. Some devices won't charge fast enough while your smartphone is in GPS mode.

- Use with gloves. Although many smartphone screens have a very good touch response, not all of them are suitable for use with gloves...

Last but not least, when it comes to the GPS applications available for your smartphone, Google and Waze may seem perfect for basic use, but they are less well suited than others such as Osmond for route building. Don't hesitate to search the web for the one that suits you best, whether you're paying for it or not.

Precautions for use abroad. Be careful when crossing borders, as some countries do not authorize driving assistants, even when these functions are GPS-based, nor cell phone applications of the same type. This is particularly the case in Switzerland (which goes so far as to prohibit the transport of such devices, with heavy fines and confiscation of the offending equipment - see Article 98a of the Federal Road Traffic Act).

Information to know and to update

While going for a few hours' ride in the middle of summer on familiar roads doesn't require much preparation, it's a different story when you're heading off into unknown regions. Arriving at your destination at the end of the day without having thought about traffic jams, what to wear, or the risk of running out of petrol, you need to take the time to find out what's going on before you set off.

Know the traffic situation. Whenever possible, the best way to avoid traffic problems is to leave before or after the major transhumance events. If this isn't possible, or if you're planning a weekend getaway, there are websites that can help you avoid traffic jams. The Bison Futé site is always one of the most comprehensive, particularly with its year-round forecasts. For freeways, use www.autoroutes.fr. Of course, you can also rely on the directions given by GPS systems with the appropriate application (with or without a fee, depending on the model) and free applications such as Google Maps, Bing, Mappy and ViaMichelin. Waze, on the other hand, can only be accessed via your smartphone.

Follow the weather forecast. Unlike car drivers, motorcyclists can't ignore the weather. Without a roof or air-conditioning, they feel the whims of the sky directly. So it's a good idea to find out what weather conditions you're likely to encounter. General-interest TV and radio stations offer rather imprecise information. For accurate data and constant updating, prefer websites. In the mountains or by the sea, where weather conditions are decisive, places like the tourist office or harbor master's office (in ports) post weather reports. In any case, remember that meteorology is not yet an exact science, and that forecasts more than three days ahead are only 60% reliable.

Locate gas stations. When traveling, the relative autonomy of most motorcycles requires frequent stops at the pump. All the more so when you're loaded up or riding fast, as you're likely to consume more fuel than usual. Before you leave or during your journey, find out which gas stations are on your route or nearby, to avoid running out of fuel. In some sparsely populated regions, you may find that there are no gas stations within a 50 km radius. In border areas, for example near the Spanish border, the significant price difference has caused many pumps to disappear. The Essence&Co, Fuell Flash or Gasoil Now smartphone applications are just some of the many that can be downloaded and used easily - if you have a network.

Even though most GPS and AAC systems, as well as countless smartphone apps, indicate which stations are close to you, the sensible thing to do in "at-risk" areas is to fill up as soon as you've used up half your tank.

Anticipate the mechanical contingency

Despite all precautions, breakdowns and other technical problems can occur. Modern motorcycles are more and more reliable mechanically, but with today's electronics, it becomes more difficult to intervene oneself and the slightest problem often requires the motorcycle to be taken to the garage.

The minimum tools. To try to repair your motorcycle yourself, when possible, it is better not to have sacrificed the original tools before leaving to save space. Flat and Phillips screwdrivers, allen (hex) or torx (star) wrenches and a few wrenches adapted to your most common bolts are the minimum you need if you build your own toolbox. For long trips, remember to pack heavy-duty tape, protective gloves and a rag. For trips away from major urban centers, consider packing a flexible polyethylene jerry can. It can be folded up, takes up very little space and costs only a few euros.

Spare fuses and bulbs. Your fuse box (there are often several on the same machine) originally contained some. However, check this before you leave. As for bulbs, remember that you have only one headlight and one tail light. You'll be completely invisible from the front or the back if one of them fails you on the road, and it's sometimes hard to find the right bulb. Have spare bulbs on hand, even if they can only be replaced in a shop. At least you can be sure you have the right model. Keep these bulbs in a waterproof box and protected from vibrations, for example by wrapping them in paper.

The anti-puncture kit. A puncture is a risk that can be minimized by using a preventive anti-puncture product such as Wheelsecure or Restom (French products!), or Ride-On, which can easily be put in your tires before you leave. However, ask about the compatibility of the product with the pressure sensors that may be fitted to your machine and about the maximum speed allowed by the product. When the puncture is there, an anti-puncture spray can be effective. It should not be used if you have the pressure sensors mentioned above. However, on a tubeless tire, it is better to use a repair kit that allows you to place a wick and inject the contents of a gas cartridge to drive to the next garage. The tire can then be repaired by a professional by placing a part from the inside (the only authorized repair for tubeless tires). Don't keep a makeshift repair: you run the risk of seeing your tire deflate in the days that follow, or even suddenly while driving.

The vehicle documents. This is where you'll find a lot of useful information, including electronic malfunction indications that may appear on your dashboard. Finding the location of the fuse box can also help, not to mention the phone numbers of the brand's dealers or the various serial numbers, which are always requested in case of a breakdown. If you can't take the manual with you in hard copy, make a scanned copy and have it on your smartphone.

The high visibility vest. Since January^1, 2016, drivers of two and three-wheeled motorized vehicles have been required to carry a high-visibility vest in order to be visible in the event of a breakdown or accident. Take two if you have a passenger.

Transporting your motorcycle

Putting your machine on a trailer towed by a car is the cheapest way to transport your motorcycle. Provided you have a car! What's more, while transporting your motorcycle on a trailer is gentle on your machine, it doesn't save you a long journey, often on freeways and sometimes in traffic jams. To arrive fresh and ready at your vacation destination, hiring a transporter is a more expensive solution, but one worth considering.

Use a trailer. There is no specific legislation governing motorcycle trailers in France. You should therefore refer to the texts concerning trailers in general. If you're going abroad, refer to the regulations in force in your country, whether they concern tolls, speed limits or access to certain roads.

When choosing a motorcycle trailer, in addition to its general characteristics (size, stability, wheel diameter, number of anchoring points, etc.), pay particular attention to its GVW. The least expensive trailers have a limited GVWR (e.g. 250 kg), which means that they cannot be used by large motorcycles, bearing in mind that a trailer weighs at least 50 kg when empty.
For one-off use, you can rent a trailer from private individuals or professionals, some of whom are both sellers and renters.
Whether you're buying or renting, remember that you'll need a ramp to access your trailer, and that it must be able to support the weight of your machine on a single rail.
It's best to mount your motorcycle on the trailer in pairs. When it comes to securing your machine, don't play with fire, and provide ratchet straps with a minimum of five, one of which will serve as a spare. Two are reserved for the front and two for the rear. Don't use anchor points such as mufflers or suitcases, but rather frame components. Moderately compress the suspension and remove the side stand. Preferably, tension the front straps at 45° to your machine and the rear straps at 90° to the rear arm. Tension the straps gradually, carefully avoiding any points of friction with painted or fragile parts.
Once you're on the road, keep a close eye on your trailer with your rear-view mirrors. Stop frequently to check the tension of the straps. They will systematically loosen, especially in windy or rough conditions.

Regulations for towing a trailer. You can tow a trailer with a B license on two conditions: that the total weight of the load (trailer and motorcycle) does not exceed 750 kg GVW (gross vehicle weight); given that a motorcycle rarely weighs more than 350 kg, there's a good margin. And if your GVW still exceeds 750 kg, but is less than 3.5 tonnes, you can still tow with a B licence if the total weight of the vehicle does not exceed 4.25 tonnes. In all other cases, specific training or a permit is required. For more information, refer to the reform of driving licenses in force since January 19, 2013 (see, for example, permisdeconduire.ants.gouv.fr/tout-savoir-sur-le-permis/les-categories-du-permis-de-conduire). Above 3.5 tons for a trailer, and up to 4.25 tons for a combination of car and trailer, an additional 7 hours' training is required, and the 96 endorsement is added to the B license. Category BE (which replaced the EB license) applies to combinations where the trailer's GVWR is between 750 kg and 3.5 tonnes, and the sum of the GVWRs (car and trailer) exceeds 4.25 tonnes. If the trailer's GVW exceeds 3.5 tonnes, category C1E is required.

Under 500 kg GVW, the trailer must have the same number plate as the towing vehicle, and is covered by the latter's insurance.
If the GVW exceeds 500 kg, the trailer must be registered (with a different vehicle registration document and number plate from the towing vehicle). Up to 750 kg, trailer insurance is generally included with that of the towing vehicle.
Above 750 kg GVW, the trailer must be fitted with brakes. These brakes are also compulsory if the GVW exceeds 50% of the unladen weight of the towing vehicle. The trailer must be additionally insured.

Use the services ofa road haulier. The SNCF discontinued its Auto-Train service in 2020. Its partner, Hiflow, will now take care of transporting your motorcycle between two relay points. Your motorcycle is insured up to €1,000 by default, but you can add comprehensive insurance. From relay point to relay point, your motorcycle is delivered on average 15 days after pick-up.

Don't hesitate to compare Hiflow's rates and insurance conditions with those of other road hauliers, who will often offer address-to-address delivery. In all cases, be present when your motorcycle is loaded, and check the straps (marks on the paintwork, fairing, etc.).
Take a photo of your motorcycle before it leaves, so that you can prove its previous condition in the event of breakage on arrival.

Latest tips

Are you ready? Almost ready to go? Then here is a summary of the essentials. Warning: what follows does not take into account all the preparation which is spread over several weeks (budget, choice of the country and conditions of entry and circulation, insurance conditions...), the list of personal belongings to take, nor the complete check-up of the motorcycle and the purchases of accessories, maps, specific equipment...

Several weeks before departure. Buy or order the electronic toll cards or badges necessary for your trip. If your trip goes beyond the borders of France, you may be confronted with the need to have an environmental sticker to cross certain cities. The Green-Zones.eu website (www.green-zones.eu) allows you to know everything about the different European vignettes and to acquire them if necessary.

A few days before departure. Update your GPS and make a copy in a virtual safe of your important documents (on www.service-public.fr, for example). If you are going abroad, register on the Ariane site of France Diplomatie.

When loading. This operation should be done if possible the day before or several hours before departure. Place the heaviest objects close to the center of gravity of the motorcycle, or as low as possible, preferably in the side cases. Avoid loading the tank bag or top case heavily. Leave the fuse box(es) and the battery free to access after having identified their location. The same goes for the essentials: anti-theft device, puncture protection, tool kit, etc. After loading, check the lighting height of your headlights and make sure that the tire pressure is adapted to the load.

When you leave. Check your levels. Check that you have the following documents: driver's license, identity card, vehicle registration document, insurance certificate, pre-filled European accident report, contact addresses in France, maintenance manual (in computer format). If you are going abroad, don't forget to take your European social security card, your proof of complementary health insurance and the details of your repatriation assistance (which you must take out).

Finally, don't forget the spare keys (ignition and suitcases, but also antitheft), the connection cables and the chargers you will need (intercom, telephone, GPS...).

Storing your motorcycle

Some riders use their bikes all year round, whether for daily commuting, weekend rides or travel. Others, as soon as the bad days of autumn arrive, decide to let their motorcycle hibernate and to take it out only in spring. Certain precautions should be taken to make sure you get off to a good start when the weather turns warm.

Parking. More than the cold, you must protect your bike from rain and humidity at all costs. The best place to park your bike is in a sheltered area or even a heated garage. If you park your motorcycle in a yard, on the street or on an exposed spot, protect it as best you can with a specific motorcycle cover. The material must be waterproof and allow air to circulate so as not to encourage rust. Position the motorcycle on the center stand, if it has one, to spare the tires and shock absorbers.

The battery. As soon as the first days of cold weather arrive and you know that your motorcycle will be parked for several weeks, think about your battery. Here, the enemy is not rust, but the cold that discharges. Remove your battery and store it in a safe place or invest in a battery optimizer. This can be plugged in permanently (but check the instructions) and will automatically provide a proper charge if your battery voltage drops below a certain limit.

Liquids and tires. Fill up the tank to prevent the air from rusting it. For motorcycles without fuel injection, drain the carburetors to prevent them from clogging. Another solution is to fill up the tank and add a conservative additive. When restarting the motorcycle at the end of the storage period, an oil change will not hurt and it will be imperative to check the pressure of the tires which will have deflated.