A flora composed of 755 species
Although green dominates some islands during the rainy season, Cape Verde's ecosystem has probably never been tropical or covered in lush greenery, despite its name. The scarcity of ancient documents means that we know little about the flora of the region before the arrival of humans. In those days, the lower slopes were covered with grasses and devoid of trees or low vegetation dotted with savannah-type trees. Native plants are adapted to drought, have small leaves and have become more robust in the face of strong winds. Over the last 500 years, plants have been introduced from all over the world and people have tried to acclimatize them. But many trees have been felled to make way for arable land. Cattle released into the wild and poor farming techniques have meant that most of the original vegetation has been eradicated. The result is that, of the 600 plant species that grow here, only a quarter are natural to the archipelago. Some 200 plant species were imported by Portuguese navigators from Europe, Africa and Brazil: cassava, corn, sweet potatoes, coffee, grapevines, sugar cane, bananas, castor beans, soursop, papaya, mango, Indian coconut palms and sisal, more commonly known as carrapato, the fiber of which is used to make ropes.
Dracaena and endemic plants
Many plants exist only on Cape Verdean soil. Among the endemic species is the majestic blue-green dragon tree, whose disappearance was meteoric, and which can still be admired on the wild island of São Nicolau. Some attribute curative powers to its sap, known as "dragon's blood". Tamarisk palms, known locally as tamandaré, are well adapted to the archipelago's specific coastal climatic conditions. They still survive in their original state, filling the lagoons and sunken deserts of Boa Vista. In Creole, losna, a variety of artemisia and cousin of wormwood, is picked at altitude in semi-arid zones and used to make herbal teas with anti-malarial properties. In undergrowth or near levadas, bluebells bloom all year round. White hawthorn (Acacia albida) came to occupy large areas in the south-west, and its disappearance was compensated for at the end of the last century by Acacia prosopis. Marmulano, or ironwood, was once very common on the islands, but was harvested for the tanning of hides. Today, you have to climb to the very top of the valleys to reach them, but they can still be seen at Ribeira de Penede on Santo Antão. Figueira, or Ficus Sycomorus, is still found in wetlands and steep terrain and has given its name to a number of localities: Figueras, Figueral, Figeuria... Their wood has been used extensively to build houses or make mortar. Last but not least, the islands are home to a number of endemic mushrooms that grow in wetlands. These are boletes and psalliotes, but they are not part of the islanders' eating habits. Palha d'agua is widely grown in the beds of the ribeiras, and is used for fodder and light basketry.
Brava, the island of a thousand flowers
Unlike its sister islands, the lush island of Brava has a bucolic charm. Everywhere, lantanas cover the ground with their orange bells, and agaves, liqueanders, jasmines and bougainvilleas respond in shades of purple and white. The king hibiscus blooms in abundance, both in the wild and in private gardens where it forms hedges. Several species are very common, but the Sabdarifa variety is used to prepare a vermilion-red drink full of antioxidants, widely consumed in Senegal under the name of bissap.
A stopover for migratory birds
There are around 130 species of migratory birds for which the archipelago is an important stopover on their long journey. Some forty of them use the islands for nesting. The country is home to 4 endangered species of seabird: the Superb Frigate, the Brown Booby, the Cape Verde Shearwater, known as cagara in Creole, and the Rabo de junco or Red-billed Tropicbird, recognizable by its elongated tail feathers.
Primates now protected
Today, green monkeys, known locally as makok, are still found in loose groups on the islands of Brava and Santiago, but their numbers have declined considerably. In the 16th century, they were reported to be too numerous, and it is thought that they must have been introduced to the islands by the first navigators after 1460. The little space they have left, and the arid nature of the area, drive them closer to farms in search of sustenance; in this respect, they are considered a nuisance by farmers. If you come across one along the way, you should approach it with great caution, bearing in mind that these are wild animals, capable of severe bites. A refuge has been set up by a Frenchman with the dual aim of preventing the extinction of these primates and turning them into a tourist attraction.
Even if you're in Africa, you won't come across any ferocious mammals - far from it! The islands, on the other hand, are home to a plethora of domestic animals, such as donkeys and horses, introduced by the Portuguese. There are no snakes on the archipelago, a fact that will not displease hikers. However, a few insects proliferate: mosquitoes, common myriapods... and in recent years, locusts have been devastating crops. Beware of the dreaded scolopendre, whose venomous sting causes severe pain.
A marine fauna to observe
According to the WWF, the waters of Cape Verde are particularly rich due to the perfect conditions of the seabed, and their true potential in terms of marine life is unknown. The sea is full of corals, plates, pinnacles and provides habitats sought after by species at all depths. According to one study, the archipelago is one of the 10 countries with the best-preserved coral on the planet.
To date, scientists have identified 639 species of Atlantic fish, including manta rays and moray eels. On the plate, the population is keen on garupa (grouper), often found on the menu, or badèches, sea breams, swordfish, not forgetting lobster. Whale, tiger and lemon sharks can be spotted (preferably from a distance, although they're no killers) on boat trips. Between February and May, five types of humpback whale, sperm whales and 14 representatives of the Delphinidae pass through or are seen in these waters. Humpback whales have chosen Cape Verde as their breeding ground. These impressive creatures can grow up to ten meters long and weigh up to thirty tons. Take a look at the ocean when you're on your boat, and you'll be in for a real treat. And treat yourself to dives to get up close and personal with multicolored tropical fish, surgeonfish and trumpet-fish.
The turtle, symbol of Cape Verde
Five species of turtle frequent Cape Verdean waters, including the famous loggerhead(Caretta caretta), which can weigh up to 150 kg. Studies have shown that Cape Verde is a crucial player for this species, their population being the3rd largest in the world after those of Florida and the Sultanate of Oman. Around 3,000 turtles are thought to breed here, in Boa Vista, Maio and Sal. The hawksbill turtle(Eretmochelys imbricata) is a particularly endangered species, as its shell is highly sought-after for handicrafts. The green turtle and the olive ridley turtle(Lepidochelys olivacea) are often found in shallow bays, where they forage on algae.
Even if the French government and associations are very active in taking protective measures, there are still a number of threats to this marine heritage. In addition to plastic pollution, there are the destructive methods used by fishermen. Another is coastal development: most of the turtles' habitat and nesting areas along the coast are precisely where marinas and hotels are planned. And last but not least, hunting. This dates back to 1479, when explorer Eustache Delafosse witnessed a curious spectacle when he observed that leprosy was treated locally by following a diet based on turtle fat and rubbing the affected areas with the animal's blood. King Louis XI, believing himself to be ill, even sent his official representative to investigate this miracle cure. Hunting is still practiced today, sometimes for its meat or eggs, and even for its blood, which, when added to wine, is considered a traditional tonic.
You may be lucky enough to witness the nesting spectacle, at dusk or in the dead of night. Don't disturb! ... and make way for a memorable show: the chelonians dig a hole in the sand, lay multiple fragile white eggs, fill the nest with their nimble legs and head back out to sea once their mission is accomplished. The incubation period lasts 2 months. Fortunately, NGOs and other Programas de conservação are there to ensure that the newborns (known as wrigglers) can take their first steps in good conditions. It goes without saying that egg-laying is crucial to the preservation of species.
