Discover Cape Verde : Society (social life)

There's no doubt that the legendary friendliness of Cape Verdeans will be one of your best travel experiences. The population is extremely warm and friendly, without being intrusive. This is certainly due to their character, but also to the fact that tourism is still in its infancy, still new, not yet polluted or distorted in terms of human relations. It's still possible to capture people's attention, to chat with the locals, whether for a few minutes or for long hours, to make genuine contacts. Let's not forget that Cape Verdeans have family all over the world, so they are open, welcoming, curious and tolerant. Here, the gentleness of life is palpable, time has no real hold, nonchalance is the order of the day and helps you forget the rhythms of the city... After all, this is the land of the morabeza.

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Family activities

In the Catholic religion, the family is very important, and it's not uncommon for several generations to live together in the same household. As in many countries where emigration has become commonplace, buying a house or having one built is a sign of social advancement, seen by the family itself and by the community. However, there are major disparities in terms of housing. Some hamlets are inaccessible, cut off from the rest of the world, and living conditions can be very basic. However, in all social circles, the television set will always be the founding element, even in a cottage with rustic comforts. It's the place where families and neighbors gather to watch a soccer match or the telenovelas from Brazil that are so dear to the hearts of all Lusitanians. At broadcast time, the streets and squares are suddenly deserted. It's worth remembering that these soap operas sometimes run for years! In these remote hamlets, there is often no running water. At best, large tanks are used to store it, which are placed on the roof. The Internet and new technologies have finally taken off, even if the network is temperamental. Cape Verde is no longer considered poor: it has moved from the category of least-developed countries (LDCs) to that of emerging middle-income countries (MICs). The country imports almost all its goods, the vast majority of which come from Portugal. The cost of living varies from island to island: in Boa Vista, prices are 30% higher than in the rest of the archipelago.

All to school!

The country boasts the highest literacy rate in Africa (94% for primary education). Education has always been a government priority. School attendance is compulsory up to the age of 15, and children enjoy studying. Some of them, in the most remote areas, don't hesitate to walk long distances to get to school. You'll see them, dressed in their uniforms, walking or waiting for an aluguer acting as a school bus. Access to higher education is now possible thanks to the opening of the country's first university in Praia in 2006. Since then, the country has acquired a2nd university structure: gone are the days when you had to go abroad to study.

Music at the heart of everyday life

No Cape Verdean, regardless of age or social class, can live without music - it's part of his or her identity. With its origins in Africa, music, song and dance have undergone a number of skilful blends that are clearly perceptible in the rhythms. But it has also been enriched by South American sounds, such as the energetic funaná, with its binary rhythms akin to the lambada. Finally, Portugal also played a role, as the national morna is similar to the fado. The morna, which encapsulates the Cape Verdean soul, plays a fundamental role in social life, accompanying weddings, christenings - in short, all major events. More recently, zouk, cabo love and kizomba have entered the airwaves and dance floors in a big way. Singing (in Creole, of course) and dancing are essential to Cape Verdeans. Any occasion is good for a party, and any object can be used as an instrument: a glass can be turned upside down and tapped, the lid of a bowl or can be used, and so on. Anything that resonates is enough to create wild rhythms and get you moving. In Cape Verde, it's customary to meet in the evening in town squares, cafés, on the street or at friends' homes. A stringed instrument here, a cavaquinho there, and you've got an impromptu orchestra in place, ready to thrill groups of revellers who are sure to form, attracted by the familiar sounds. While remaining faithful to tradition, today's younger generations are turning to more Afro-funk, electronic and urban sounds, and it's these new trends that keep the crowds dancing. Whatever the case, the energy of Cape Verdean music is highly contagious.

A carnival with African rhythms

The Mindelo Carnival, which everyone eagerly awaits, has become a veritable institution in Cape Verde. But how and why did it get here? The "fault" lies with the Portuguese, who introduced the Entrudo festival during Mardi Gras. Time and cross-fertilization did the rest, transforming a simple, local festival into a major popular culture event, which, thanks to tourism, is beginning to acquire a certain international notoriety. To the sound of the batucada, parades, King Momo, costumes, mandingas and choreographies are prepared well in advance to offer everyone a spectacle worthy of its reputation. Neighborhoods come alive, bodies and spirits warm up... atmosphere and swaying guaranteed for more than a week!

Scenes from local life

Leisure and entertainment are reduced to simple activities: grilling chops on a brazier and treating the neighbors, going fishing, improvising a few notes of tocatinha-style music or drinking a grogue in good company. At the corner of a mercearia that doubles as a refreshment bar, or in the village squares, you'll see men engaged in card games that elicit gesticulations and swearing, while others doze in the shade of a palm tree. Observing these scenes, you can better understand the state of mind that is the famous morabeza, a kind of dolce vita tinged with spontaneity and openness to others. As for the kids, they can be found playing carambola (a game of marbles) on the clay or improvising a game of soccer on the sand, while their fishermen dads bring in the day's catch on their weather-beaten boats. These are just a few examples of the tableaux vivants that can be observed anywhere, at any time: that of local life, of a certain simplicity and joie de vivre, unfolding without the slightest stress... a real invitation to slow down time.

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