Characteristic products
As a country with a long tradition of livestock farming, it's hardly surprising that meat is very popular in Chad. Goat, chicken, mutton, beef, zebu and, more rarely, dromedary, are most often eaten grilled. In the desert north, meat is obviously a rarer part of the daily diet. Although the country has no coastline, there's no shortage of fish, as the waters of the country's many lakes and two major rivers are teeming with them. Of particular note are captains - or Nile perch - and carp, which feature on the menus of most restaurants, large and small. You'll find them braised, grilled, smoked or skewered. Captains are generally the most popular fish, with their tender white flesh and virtually boneless texture. Insects are also eaten in the country, often grilled, such as grasshoppers and locusts.
Spirulina, or dihé, is a cyanobacteria similar to algae, and is widely found on the shores of Lake Chad, where it thrives in nearby ponds. Extremely rich in protein (60-70% of dry matter), far more than any meat, it could represent an alternative to combat malnutrition in Chad. Cereals remain essential to local cuisine: millet, sorghum and rice, not forgetting fonio, which is naturally digestible and gluten-free. In the south of the country, cassava is also popular. Vegetables include African eggplants, carrots, cabbage, tomatoes, peppers and, of course, okra, a green chili-like vegetable with a slight zucchini taste, appreciated for its viscous juice that thickens sauces. Local cuisine is rich in spices and condiments, such as turmeric, cumin, garlic, onion, ginger and chilli.
Dates are a staple food in the north of the country, and are used to make many tasty dishes and delicious sweets. During the month of Ramadan, dates take on a religious dimension, as it is said that the Prophet Mohammed always broke his fast with dates and water. This gesture is perpetuated by the faithful in Chad and around the world, from generation to generation. A predominantly Muslim country, with a sizeable Christian minority, Chad observes the precepts of Islam with rigor.
Ramadan - whose date, indexed to the lunar calendar, varies from year to year - is a major celebration. For 30 days, adults abstain from food and drink from sunrise to sunset. Fasting is interrupted in the evening at iftar, when meals - often very generous - are shared with relatives, neighbors and friends. Eid el-Fitr marks the end of Ramadan.
For the feast of Tabaski, or the Feast of the Sheep, or Aïd el-Kébir, a sheep is ritually slaughtered and then eaten grilled or as a méchoui. The inside of the animal can be stuffed with various ingredients: couscous, eggplant, carrots, eggs or even other animals, such as chicken or quail.
There is a wide range of restaurants to choose from. Small Chadian and African restaurants in the capital and other towns all offer fish, meat and chicken with salad and French fries. It's in small restaurants that you'll get a taste of Chadian gastronomy, which is little represented in large restaurants. Grill stalls are to be found just about everywhere, especially in the markets. Make sure the meat is well cooked, though. Meals are generally included in desert excursions and safari packages. However, you'll need to bring some extra provisions to cover the occasional munchies. European-style restaurants are plentiful in N'Djamena and some of the country's larger towns.
Classics of Chadian cuisine
The cereal ball is a staple of local gastronomy, where it is eaten daily. It is also known as " esh " in Chadian Arabic. Made from millet paste, molded into a compact half-sphere of dough, it is separated into pieces by hand before being dipped in a sauce. There's also porridge made from different types of cereal (millet, sorghum or kreb, i.e. wild fonio), with a porridge-like texture. Kissar is a large millet or rice pancake eaten with a variety of preparations. Depending on the event, this pancake is sometimes spread out on a large platter over a metre in diameter, then garnished with salads, meats in sauce, fritters and so on. It is eaten by tearing off a piece of wafer and dipping it into one of the dishes, in the manner of Ethiopianinjera. Also noteworthy areaiyash, a kind of millet flour fritter.
As in many French-speaking African countries, starchy foods are accompanied by "sauce". In reality, these are stews based on meat, fish, vegetables and various condiments. Charmout is a type of dried meat used to prepare tagalié, a sauce made from dried okra. Molokhia is a sauce made from jute leaves and meat, simmered for a long time with onions, garlic and various spices. Daraba is a stew made with chopped okra, sweet potato, spinach, eggplant, tomatoes and more.
Also known as "long sauce" or "t.k", tan koul is made from a mixture of hibiscus flowers, shea seeds, wild eggplant and lapullier bark, which gives it its gooey texture. It is garnished with smoked meat or fish. Karkandji is a sauce made from Guinea sorrel (hibiscus) leaves simmered with meat or fish (fresh, dried or smoked) to which peanut paste, onions and spices are added. Squash and peanut stews are very popular, as is maharagwe, a finely spiced red bean stew.
Meat, in addition to being grilled, is often cooked in sauce. Examples include doulouf, a beef shank in a sauce with eggplant, carrot, onion and various spices, or kanda, meatballs, also often in a sauce. Another stew, bangaou, comes from the Arab traditions of northern Chad. Pieces of lamb are first browned in oil, then moistened with water, tomato and bouillon-cube. Chickpeas, beans and vegetables are then added as a garnish. The stew is served with millet couscous or rice.
Desserts and drinks
Traditional patisseries are rare in Chad, although it is possible to find establishments offering Western cakes and pastries in the major cities, especially N'Djamena.
When the fast is broken during Ramadan, the women prepare tea and traditional cakes in preparation for the many visits that are sure to come. These include kak (ring-shaped cakes sprinkled with powdered sugar) and various doughnuts.
The national drink is tea. It comes in two forms: chai akhdar, i.e. green, or chai ahmar, i.e. red. Other drinks include karkadé - also known as "bissap" - a red drink made from hibiscus flowers, which can be enjoyed hot or cold. Like many countries in north-east Africa, Chadians have a love affair with coffee. A symbol of hospitality, it is offered to guests as soon as they enter the house. It is flavored with ginger, green cardamom, lemongrass and cloves. A variety of fruit juices and soft drinks are also consumed.
As for spirits, there are a number of traditional beers such as bili-bili, made from fermented millet or sorghum, while millet is also used to make merisä, a beer common to the north of the country. Finally, you can also try the Chadian beer, Gala, available in 66 cl bottles, unless you prefer more international beers, such as Castel, Guinness or 33 Export.