Discover Congo Brazzaville : Gastronomy

While Congo Brazzaville is known for its opulent flora and fauna, its cuisine remains fairly simple, but not lacking in flavor. Dishes from the north of the country are mainly made up of freshwater fish and bushmeat, the products of hunting in forested areas. Dishes from the south and especially the west of the country make more generous use of fish and seafood, although meat and poultry are still widely consumed. All of this is served with a wide range of starchy foods, notably manioc, as well as various local plants often unknown in Europe. The culinary habits of both north and south can be found in Brazzaville, which is, by virtue of its geographical location as well as its status as capital, the true hub of gastronomy in Congo Brazzaville. And to complete the picture, there's a definite taste for beer.

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Characteristic products

Meat, like fish, is either eaten fresh or quickly salted, dried and/or smoked. We find beef, pork, chicken, mutton and goat. In rural areas, bushmeat is widely available and is eaten smoked. Porcupine, antelope or sibissi - a rodent known locally as "hedgehog", better known to zoologists as aulacode - are considered must-haves, accompanied by peanut paste sauce. However, local environmental associations are fighting against the excessive consumption of this meat, which all too often involves endangered species. To address this problem, a law has been passed prohibiting the hunting, sale and consumption (except by local communities) of bushmeat between November 1 and April 30. It should also be noted that the traceability of this type of meat remains highly uncertain, and that these animals can be carriers of pathologies and other parasites dangerous to humans.

The Congolese are particularly fond of salted or smoked fish packaged in the sort of bamboo baskets you see piled up in all the country's fishing ports. It seems that the use of salted fish was imported by the Portuguese. When the Kongo king was first offered salted fish (cod) by Portuguese ambassadors, the unfamiliar taste and strong saline note made him fear the presence of poison, and he immediately spat out his mouthful. The panicked guards rushed over, asking "bueka bueni ?" ("what's happened to the king?" in Kongo). The Portuguese testified to their lack of desire to harm the king and escaped unharmed, but the expression that marked this radical taste discovery has stuck, and today buaka bueni still refers to salted fish (especially tuna), although the term makayabu is also used.

Many starchy foods form the basis of the local diet. Cassava is Congo-Brazzaville's essential food crop. Its starchy tuberous roots are eaten in many African countries, as are its leaves. Originally from South America, cassava was introduced to Central Africa by the Portuguese in the early 17th century to feed the slaves they captured. In Africa, bitter cassava is cultivated more than sweet cassava, as its yield is much higher. The presence of hydrogen cyanide - highly toxic - in the plant's tubers makes preparation before consumption essential. Two processes are used. First option: with the retting process, the tubers are immersed for several days in running water to ferment. Second option: the tubers are peeled, then grated and left to dry in the sun for several days. The cassava is then cooked.

Other starchy foods include sweet potatoes, plantains, yams and corn. Koko or Gnetum africanum is a plant prized for its slightly bitter, protein-rich leaves. Ngai ngai is the local name for roselle hibiscus leaves. Vegetables such as African eggplants, tomatoes, cabbage and squash are also used generously, as are onions, pili-pili peppers, garlic and peanuts as condiments. Palm oil is a major ingredient in the cuisine of many Central African countries. Unrefined, it has a rich orange-red color and is rich in trace elements, with a spectacular concentration of beta-carotenes. Palm fruit is also highly prized.

The markets will delight the curious with numerous medicinal plants such as moringa. A multi-purpose medicinal plant, this tree, originally from India, is widespread in the tropics. Its leaves are rich in protein and vitamins A, C, B1, B2, B3, B6, B12 and E, as well as iron, zinc, phosphorus, calcium and magnesium. Kola nuts are the fruit of the kola tree, native to West Africa. Thanks to its high caffeine content, it acts as a nervous and physical stimulant, increasing resistance to fatigue, as well as an appetite suppressant. It is also said to have aphrodisiac virtues, especially when used in combination with the indigenous chili pepper or maniguette, a cousin of ginger with slightly peppery seeds. These undeniably exciting products are adorned by the Congolese with aphrodisiac virtues, so they are considered virility enhancers and consumed almost exclusively by men.

Catering options in the Congo can be grouped into three categories. Street food includes grilled meats, coupé-coupé (stewed meats), or delicious maboké (fish or other foods cooked in papillotes made from wild leaves), and of course the indispensable manioc. Then there's the nganda, known in the remnants of French-speaking Africa as maquis. This typical Congolese canteen offers the great classics of Congolese cuisine: broths, saka-saka, braised meat or fish. More than a place to eat, it's a place to relax, chat and listen to the latest hits. Finally, there are the chic restaurants, or those of international hotels frequented by the Congolese elite and expatriates. They offer Congolese, international and French cuisine, sometimes with original specialties. People come more for business than for innovative cuisine. The growing Chinese community also has its own addresses.

Classics of Congolese cuisine

One of Congo's most famous dishes is liboké. Fish with tomato and chili is wrapped in banana leaves and cooked on a grill. The addition of other spices, such as garlic and celery, enhances the flavor. Fish can also be replaced by a variety of other ingredients, such as chicken, pork or even squash. Mpiodi, or horse mackerel, is a popular fish that can be fried, barbecued or simmered in tomato sauce. Known as "a thousand fish", ndakala is a small dried fish that is usually deep-fried.

Meat dishes include chicken, often in the form of grilled chicken thighs at market stalls. In France, "poulet mayo" means roast chicken with French fries, but in Congo Brazzaville, it means something else: a dish that has emerged over the last decade, the Congolese version consists of chicken cut into small pieces and seasoned with peppers, chillies, onions and garlic before being wrapped in a papillote. Fifteen minutes before the end of cooking, the wrapping is unwrapped and mayonnaise is added before repackaging; the whole thing is put back on the stove before being served 10-15 minutes later. Surprising but delicious. Also worth mentioning is muamba nsusu, a chicken soup with peanuts.

Another delicious dish is ya Jean, made with smoked goat meat. The goat is slaughtered and cut up on the spot, and each person chooses a piece, which is then cut up and seasoned. The pieces are then wrapped in greaseproof paper and put on the grill. Poso ya ngulu - literally meaning "pork skin" - contains, as the name suggests, pieces of pork rind cut into squares and soaked in a marinade before being smoked on a grill. This snack is served as an aperitif with chili powder and raw onion rings.

All these meat and fish dishes would not be complete without the star accompaniment of Congolese, and indeed African, cuisine: foufou. From north to south, east to west, foufou can be found on every Congolese table. There are two main types: corn or cassava foufou. Made from corn or manioc flour, foufou is cooked in a volume of water and stirred until a thick, sticky paste is formed. A firm ball can then be formed before serving.

Chikwange or kwanga is also ubiquitous. Made from fermented (retted) cassava paste, it is wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. Another popular accompaniment is lituma. Similar to foufou, it's made from boiled plantains, then peeled and mashed. Spices are sometimes added. The term "makemba" refers to fried plantain slices, which are very popular on fast-food menus, eclipsing even French fries. Finally, mbika is a type of flour produced by grinding pumpkin seeds. It is often used to coat food like breadcrumbs, or as a thickener.

Along with foufou and liboké, pondu (also known as saka saka) is one of the great classics of local cuisine. Prepared from chopped and simmered cassava leaves, pondu can be enhanced with palm oil, spices, onions and bitter eggplants. It can be served with rice or foufou. The popular mbala, or sweet potato, can be cooked in a tomato sauce with pieces of beef or pork, onions, garlic and more. Its leaves (matembélé) are also eaten. Fumbwa is made from koko leaves, finely chopped and cooked with spices and peanuts. Mayebo is a popular dish of fresh or dried mushrooms of various species, often simmered in tomato sauce or palm oil. The more adventurous will try mbinzo ya mayebo, where the mushrooms are garnished with dried caterpillars, usually cooked with a light onion and red pepper sauce.

Desserts and drinks

You won't find many traditional desserts in Congo-Brazzaville, although there are a few establishments serving Western-style pastries in the major cities, especially Brazzaville. However, there are mikate, a kind of sugar doughnut, and tshomba tshia kabiola, a dessert made from fermented manioc, peanuts, milk and sugar. The tropical climate allows for the cultivation of a multitude of sun-drenched fruits, some of which are processed into juice. These include the ferocious tangawisi, made with ginger for a kick, or the more delicate bissap, made with red hibiscus flowers, served hot or cold. It is popular in other countries in the region under the name of karkadé or Guinée sorrel.

On the beer front, there's Ngok, Primus and Mutzig. These local beers come in 65 cl bottles ("Grand modèle" or "GM") and are served for all occasions. As their alcohol content is very low, due to their production in the hot country, they are mainly used as thirst-quenchers, drunkenness being a side effect. Also worth mentioning is palm wine, a delicious, milky-looking drink with a fruity taste that fermentation sometimes makes slightly fizzy. Finally, douma is the traditional honey alcohol of the northern forest peoples, particularly in the Likouala region. Under this name, mead is marketed in three forms: dry, semi-dry and sweet.

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