The chieftaincy route
Covering the western part of the country from the Hauts Plateaux to the edge of the Mbam Massif, the route des chefferies is a journey to discover Cameroon's ancestral traditions and customs, as well as the natural sites, sacred places and rites practiced there. A complete itinerary through the region's must-see sites, the Route des Chefferies offers total immersion in a culture with 100% African roots, sadly little-known, and which would tend to disappear if local populations, with the support of the Office Régional de Tourisme Ouest Cameroun (ORTOC), didn't do their utmost to keep this cultural heritage alive. In particular, through subsidies for the upkeep of sites, the conservation of collections in chieftaincy museums and the promotion of local crafts and produce, the Region is helping to ensure the survival of this cultural heritage. More than just an itinerary, the Route des Chefferies is above all a program committed to the development of tourism throughout the region. It also aims to federate the chiefdoms around this development project, so that all the sites are maintained and ready to welcome tourists and visitors.
A three-day stay in the region will enable you to visit the main natural sites and the chiefdoms best known to the general public. A five- or six-day stay in the region, based in Bafoussam for example, will enable you to visit all 14 chiefdoms open to the public, as well as most of the natural sites and walks to be enjoyed in the surrounding area. Along the way, you'll come across waterfalls, crater lakes, lush gardens, caves and tea, coffee and cocoa plantations, all of which unfold unique landscapes and are accompanied by shared knowledge and popular legends, forming the region's natural heritage.
Ekom Nkam Falls and the road to Dschang
Located at the gateway to the Western Region, the Ekom Nkam waterfalls are often the starting point for discovering the West, especially for those travelling from Douala (167 km). Starting with the Ekom Falls marks the beginning of your journey and immersion in a culture where rituals and beliefs play an important role. Far from the hustle and bustle of the big cities, it's time to get back to basics and let yourself be won over by the special atmosphere of the region and by all the imagination that surrounds its sites and discoveries.
After a stopover at Ekom Falls, it's a good idea to put down your bundle in Dschang, where you'll easily find room and board. Here, the Museum of Civilization opens its doors to visitors. Situated on the shores of Lake Dschang, this building, with its contemporary architecture marked by African symbols (spider, buffalo, elephant and masks adorn its façade), offers five thematic areas focusing on the history of Cameroon, its building peoples, their relationship with nature and the role of traditional chieftaincies. It's an excellent way to start discovering them.
Mamy Wata waterfall and Ndemvo'h caves
From Dschang, it's easy to get to Fongo-Tongo. On the road, 25 km from the town, lies the Mamy Wata waterfall, in the heart of the Fongo-Tongo chiefdom forest. At a height of 80 metres, the waterfall flows into a winding river, and for those who don't yet know, it is (as its name suggests) imbued with the legend of the mermaid who makes her home there. It's possible to cross the sacred forest to admire a magnificent view of the waterfall below. The tour then continues, and a short nature hike towards Lethiop takes you to the Ndemvo'h caves. These two rock formations, one female and the other male, are sacred and together form what is known as the landmark of the gods. Back in Dschang, a stroll through the gardens of the climatic center and a visit to the town's craft galleries are a must. With its three conical roofs typical of traditional Bamiléké architecture, this building is also in the tradition of local chiefdoms. Here you'll find replicas of many of the sacred objects housed in chiefdom museums: wooden thrones, jewelry, masks and ceremonial accessories.
On the road to Bafoussam
The next stop on the trip is the town of Bafoussam. But first, off to Djuttitsa and its tea plantations. Here, 500 hectares of plantations roll out a verdant carpet, revealing every stage of tea processing, from plucking to bagging. If the laboratory is open, tea tasting is available on site. Leaving the tea plantations, you can stop off at the Bafou chieftaincy, which opens its doors to you and initiates you into "Totemism", in other words the cult of totems, sacred animals whose existence is linked to that of a human being, who then becomes animal by night and man by day, thus living a double life between reality and occultism. Not far from here, the Méboukem cave is a sacred site, known as a traditional place of worship linked to these beliefs. From Bafou, it's easy to reach the Bamendjinda chiefdom.
Created towards the end of the 17th century by Chief Mbougong, the chiefdom houses a museum whose collection is designed around the themes of art, traditions and slavery. In fact, it was the very first museum to deal with slavery in Cameroon.
Not far from Bamendjinda is the Bamesso chiefdom. Here, the exhibition plunges the visitor into the heart of the rites performed around mourning, funerals, the loss of a loved one and his or her passage to the rank of ancestor. From cult objects to traditional dances, the full symbolism of funerals and their value as a cultural and festive event (a ritual celebration of the passage between life and death) is made explicit, providing an insight into many aspects of the relationship with death in Cameroon, and more generally in sub-Saharan Africa.
Bafoussam and surroundings
40 km south of Bafoussam lies the Bangwa chiefdom. "Arts, Hunting and Traditions" is the theme of this chiefdom, whose builder-ancestor Leukemegne was known for his hunting skills, and who made this activity central to the life of the chiefdom.
Then it's on to the Batoufam chiefdom. Considered one of the largest chiefdoms in the region, the Batoufam kingdom is a site whose history can be read on the facades of its open-air museum. The Batoufam site proudly displays African architecture and ancient traditions that have their origins in the kingdom's customs. Another special feature of this chieftaincy is its four guest rooms and a restaurant overlooking the royal pond. The theme of the Batoufam chiefdom: "Architecture, power and social cohesion".
The Baham chiefdom is located exactly 22 km south of Bafoussam. It features the conical roofs typical of the region, as well as a layout consisting of a main alley lined with huts, at the end of which sits the palace, now the chiefdom museum. The museum was founded in 2003, with the support of an Italian NGO. The permanent exhibition is built around the theme of "Art, Memory and Power". Handicraft workshops are offered here, and Baham's treasure is the production of Ndop, the traditional fabric typical of the West, with blue motifs dyed on a thick white cotton canvas that you'll find all over the region.
Fifteen kilometers from the Baham chiefdom is the Bapa chiefdom. But on the way there, you can stop first at theFovu cave, an improbable field of rocks stretching for 15 km.
Once at the Bapa chiefdom, the pointed roofs are reminiscent of the many chiefdoms in the region, but with a difference: here, the roofs are a green that clearly echoes the surrounding natural environment. In fact, the museum is structured around seven thematic areas, covering everything from the history and organization of the chiefdom to the Bapa's perception of nature, traditional skills, culinary arts, traditional pharmacopoeia, the benefits of plants and environmental preservation. Based on the theme of nature, the visit to the Bapa chiefdom is a return to the powers that be.
To the west of Bafoussam, some 30 km from the town, lies the chiefdom of Bamendjou. But first, exactly halfway to Bamendjou (i.e. some 15 km west of Bafoussam) is the chiefdom of Bamougoum. Here, the specialty is gourds, large green fruits that are dried to make musical instruments, various objects and, above all, containers of all sizes. As you can see, there's an element of symbolism in this theme, and the calabash also represents hospitality, peace and joy. The chiefdom of Bamendjou is considered one of the main calabash production centers in the Grassfields region. As you may have guessed, an exhibition of gourds of all shapes and sizes is housed in the chiefdom's heritage hut.
Once you've arrived at the Bamendjou chiefdom, you'll again be greeted by pointed roofs and a long driveway that inspires protocol and decorum. This chieftaincy is known as the chieftaincy of creators. In fact, the successive chiefs of the chieftaincy all represent a discipline and have been weavers, blacksmiths or textile craftsmen. All these arts are represented in the chieftaincy museum.
The Bandjoun chiefdom is located just 20 km south of Bafoussam. Founded by Prince Notchwegom of Baleng, it is located in the Koung-Khi department. Situated below an alley lined with more modest huts, the large hut, known as the Nemo hut, inspires respect not only for its large circumference, but also and above all for the height of its pointed roof, clad in straw, the weight of which appears to be supported by the numerous sculpted columns that stand all around the building. Without going into too much detail, this structure is impressive in its own right and stands as an architectural feat. The roof, the victim of a fire, was restored in 2023: no cranes or scaffolding, just a 15-metre-high ladder, enough to make even the most daredevil dizzy.
In addition to its impressive architecture, the Bandjoun chieftaincy is one of the region's main centers of artistic creation and tradition, with the theme of "Forge, art and power". The art of blacksmithing is at the heart of the region's society and plays an essential role.
First seen as a creative technique, then as a key element in the influence and development of the kingdom, forging helped consolidate the ruling dynasty through the production of tools, weapons and cult objects. Adjacent to the Nemo hut, the well-maintained chieftaincy museum takes you on a tour of the history of the chieftaincy's sovereigns, as well as the art of blacksmithing and its evolution over time, through illustrated frescoes, antique objects, objets d'art and sacred instruments.
Finally, the highest point on the route des chefferies, located 70 km from Bafoussam on the way to Adamaoua (north of the country), is the town of Foumban.
Foumban is the capital of the Bamoun sultanate, which has been particularly marked by three sultans: Ncharéyen, who created the kingdom in 1394, then Mbouombouo, known for his 2.06 m height and talent for war, and who extended the kingdom's borders. Finally, there's Sultan Njoya, the 17th king, who succeeded his father at the age of 4. His reign lasted from 1889 to 1933, and he left his mark on Bamoun culture through his avant-garde stance and his taste for literature. In fact, he was the originator of "shumom", a kind of Bamoun alphabet comprising over 510 pictograms.
He was also the creator of his own religion, inspired by Islam, Christianity and animist beliefs. This religion disappeared with him, but the museum's guides are happy to share their expertise on the subject with visitors to the royal palace.
Built by King Njoya between 1918 and 1922, the palace is a must-see when exploring the West and its chiefdoms. The plans, drawn up by King Njoya himself, were strongly inspired by the German buildings of the time, giving the building an original allure, part colonial building, part oriental palace.
Upon entering the palace courtyard, visitors are greeted by the statue of the warrior king Mbouombouo, riding a prancing horse, brandishing a sabre and casting a look that commands respect.
