An underwater paradise
Those lucky enough to dive off the coast of Djibouti will discover real underwater gardens, multicolored and frequented, permanently or periodically, by a large number of animal species. The species (flora and fauna) present on the Djiboutian seabed belong to both the coral domains of the Red Sea and the reefs of the Indian Ocean, ensuring the presence of a great diversity of animal and plant life. Its coasts are home to many species of colorful and predatory fish of various sizes. Snorkeling (swimming with fins, mask and snorkel) makes it easy for beginners to enjoy these marine treasures, as the coral fields are shallow. The islands and mangroves, meanwhile, have nothing to envy the paradise archipelagos of the tropics, with their warm turquoise waters and fine sandy beaches.
An abundant underwater fauna
The nomads of this region of the world have long turned their backs on the ocean and have been interested in the resources of the sea for a long time: little fishing, little degradation. The region has no river that can discharge silt and various types of pollution. Industrial fishing has been banned since 2001. It remains exclusively artisanal. Strict measures have followed: underwater hunting prohibited, harvesting and trade in coral and coral fish suspended, protection of certain endangered species (turtles, dugongs, large cetaceans). Apart from an upsurge in poaching (shark hunting to feed the fin trade), and the incursion of trawlers caught in the act of illegal fishing, the result is a virtually untouched coastline.
The Seven Brothers archipelago, considered as THE most exceptional site of Djibouti, hosts colonies of hard and soft corals, huge coral plateaus, various fishes, among which the biggest... Indeed, huge specimens populate the waters of the Gulf of Tadjourah and Goubet. Whale sharks, various sharks, rays and huge barracudas, giant octopuses and moray eels were observed in the past by Cousteau and local fishermen, and are still magnified in the legends.
Over 400 species of fish
There are over 400 species of fish in Djiboutian waters, including 140 coral fish. The latter, in shoals or solitary, are particularly popular with divers, who marvel at the variety of their colors. You'll see dukefish, devilfish, butterflyfish, coachfish, soldierfish, lionfish, lyretailfish, squirrelfish, damselfish, scorpionfish, angelfish, hedgehogfish, parrotfish (with its beak that allows it to crunch coral), clownfish, the great surgeon, the deceptive and dangerous stonefish, the fireworks of the flying scorpionfish... A succession of evocative and poetic names. Various species of rays (blue spotted, torpedo) frequent these waters, from the smallest to the most gigantic, such as the manta ray (on Shark Island, for example).
There's no shortage of predators either. Moray eels are everywhere, sometimes reaching impressive dimensions (up to 3 m). Lightning-fast barracudas of all sizes dart and shine as they attack their prey. As throughout the Red Sea, sharks of various species abound: white-tip, black-tip, blue, speckled, sleeper, hammerhead, grey, reef, thresher, tiger. Not forgetting others just as big, such as yellowfin tuna, trevally, crocodile fish, swordfish and giant wrasse. Big groupers, whether "Red Sea" or "wandering loche", look like lonely sulky pouts. Finally, the world's largest fish, the placid whale shark, remains the undisputed star.
The whale shark, gentle giant of the sea
Every diver dreams of swimming alongside her. Its lifespan is around 70 years. It lives in tropical and temperate waters and feeds exclusively on plankton. Seasonal gatherings take place at several sites in the Red Sea and Indian Ocean, and particularly in Djibouti, from mid-October to February, when the waters are richest in plankton. They gather in the Gulf of Tadjourah and the Ghoubet-al-Kharab to feed and reproduce. The placid Rhincodon typus measures between 2.50 and 8 m, and can sometimes reach 15 or even 18 m in length. Despite its size, this solitary animal is totally harmless to humans. It moves slowly, opening its wide mouth to engulf and filter plankton and sometimes the sardines or anchovies it feeds on. They feed close to the surface, which makes them easy to observe, but also more vulnerable. A contact zone of 250 m around the whale shark must be respected. Whale sharks are threatened by habitat destruction, pollution and fishing, so it's important to protect their environment and limit disturbances that can cause them stress or affect their natural behavior. A few essential rules must therefore be strictly observed when diving: listen carefully to the pre-trip briefing.
Cetaceans, molluscs and crustaceans
Eleven species of cetacean have also been listed: dolphins of various species (spinner, humpback, spotted, Indian, pilot whale...), orcas, beaked whales and sperm whales are among the "stars". The former are numerous and often observed. We should also mention the strange dugong, a 3 m-long herbivorous mammal, relative of the manatee, now threatened with extinction. Totally harmless and particularly friendly-looking, it resembles a cow grazing on the seabed.
Among the smaller creatures of this underwater world, the sometimes enormous lobsters, once at peace, are now appreciated by tourists and therefore less represented. Numerous types of crab can be found along the coastline, and shrimp feed a host of predators. It's hard to list all the molluscs here. However, there are 35 species of porcelain. Pearl oysters are always present. Clams compete with fish and coral to color the underwater world, opening their immense mantle.
Last but not least, sea turtles include the Caret, Green, Hawksbill, Leatherback, Loggerhead and Ridley turtles. It is strictly forbidden to hunt them or trade in their scales. You can sometimes spot them from the shore, when you walk along the coast at the bottom of the Goubet. Or, more likely, diving at the Canyon or Sables Rouges.
A real underwater garden
If you go diving in Djibouti, you'll quickly understand why certain areas are known as "underwater gardens". Multicolored algae (400 species) and phanerogamous plants form veritable meadows, proliferating between 0 and 200 m depth.
Djibouti is home to some of the most beautiful seabeds in the world, with intact coral reefs of incomparable variety (over 200 species of hard and soft corals). These classic fringing coral reefs are considered to be in good condition. The reef is either close to the coast (between 0 and 15 m deep), or separated by an often narrow channel. Here you'll find both hard and soft corals, from the Red Sea to the Indian Ocean. But there are also corals that are unique to the Gulf of Tadjourah, characterized by their original colors and astonishing ability to survive in waters that are a priori unsuitable for them (too high a temperature in particular).
The corals form lively, colorful gardens of varied shapes, sometimes evoking veritable underwater cities. These reefs perpetuate many of the world's underwater species. But the coral reef is a fragile environment, requiring the utmost attention. The spread of parasites (large starfish, perforating sponges, sea urchins), the scraping of reefs by boat anchors, climate change, etc., all pose a serious threat to these marine ecosystems.
Diving sites
The main diving and snorkeling sites are located around Djibouti-Ville, the Musha Islands, on the south coast of the Gulf of Tadjourah, towards Goubet el-Kharâb, at the bottom of the Gulf of Tadjourah, on the north coast of the Gulf of Tadjourah and between Obock and the Sept Frères archipelago. This playground boasts a total of 34 sites identified, named and frequented by divers. Further north, on the Red Sea towards the Eritrean border, the area remains unexplored, for obvious safety reasons.
The Seven Brothers archipelago, accessible by cruise ship, offers exceptional dives (among the world's top 10) in difficult conditions (strong currents, average visibility) due to the meeting of the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean. Forbidden for years due to maritime safety issues, it has been possible to return since March 2016, depending on the situation at the time.
North of Le Goubet, a unique site also delights experienced divers: La Faille. This is the meeting point of three tectonic plates: the African Plate, the Indian Ocean Plate and the Asian Plate. The dive takes place along a large fissure, advancing between 10 and 50 m between two rock faces, and passing through numerous caves and tunnels. The fauna is abundant and the diving particularly impressive.
All levels welcome
Djibouti's dive sites are no longer the preserve of solo, autonomous, adventurous divers. Today, experienced Level 1 divers can dive in complete safety. And for novices, we can't recommend it enough. Conditions are ideal for first-time divers, and training courses are of the highest quality. On the safety front, for the more anxious, Djibouti has a fully operational decompression chamber at the French military base. Approved diving clubs, such as Dolphin Excursions (www.divedjibouti.com), can access it 24/7 all year round, in case of emergency. That said, dives are strictly supervised and comply with all safety regulations.
The best time to dive is from October to April, and even better from November to February, when the waters of the Red Sea are at their clearest. Winter, especially December and January, is very popular. The water temperature remains constant all year round (between 28 and 30°C). It's at this time of year that the huge, placid whale sharks roam the Gulf of Tadjourah. Several Djiboutian agencies offer diving holidays. However, you can also prepare your diving trip in Europe via specialized agencies, which usually work with Djibouti agencies.
Good to know: a fee of FDJ 2,000 per diver is charged for each day trip to the port of departure by an agent of the Tourist Office.