A new religious openness
Although Catholics still represent 60% of Christians, Protestantism is gradually gaining ground. This is due to the growing influence of the American churches, but also to a certain mistrust of the population towards Catholic priests, many of whom took part in the 1994 massacres. Before the genocide, the Muslim religion was anecdotal in the country. Today, it is estimated that it is practiced by about 5% of Rwandans. Thousands of Catholics wanted to convert because of the peaceful stance taken by most imams in 1994. The Muslim Hutus refused to collaborate with the genocidaires, going so far as to hide and protect Tutsis belonging to their religious community. Biryogo, the Muslim quarter, was considered the safest place in the city. In recent years, Rwanda has also seen the rise of revivalist churches, an evangelical movement imported in the aftermath of the genocide by Rwandan exiles returning from Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. The government is keeping a close eye on these new churches because there are many abuses. In this show religion, the masses take the form of overexcited meetings where a pastor-guru, most often self-proclaimed, harangues the crowd. The faithful shout, cry, throw themselves to the ground while chanting prayers and do not hesitate to make generous donations. In addition to being a lucrative business, some of these revivalist churches can be like cults. In general, President Paul Kagame does not like this omnipresence of the church. Concerned about the influence of religious leaders, he has closed down more than 6,000 religious buildings, mainly churches but also some mosques, since he came to power in 2000. Although the government urges its people to distance themselves from the church and the genocide has broken down some religious trust, atheism remains almost non-existent in the country. In any case, religious pressure is so strong in Rwandan society that the few atheists are careful not to publicly reveal their lack of conviction.
The return of the old religion
In addition to their Christian or Muslim religion, many Rwandans still practice certain rituals from the old traditional religion. They continue to honor the memory of the god Imana, whom they consider the creator of all life and the protector of the living. According to popular belief, the spirits of men and animals remain on earth after death and mingle with the living. If certain spirits are disturbed, they can cause disease, crop failure or bring misfortune to a family. To appease the wrath of the dead, Rwandans may call upon an umufumu, a sorcerer who communicates with the dead through ritual incantations. This traditional religion plays a significant role in the importance Rwandans place on funeral ceremonies. Here the dead are sacred and honored by their families. The mourning period can last several months during which activities that are supposed to represent life are forbidden. The family of the deceased can no longer work, sow the fields or eat meat. Agricultural and domestic tasks are left to neighbors and friends. Until a few years ago, it was not uncommon to see women with shaved heads as a sign of mourning. For the Rwandans, certain round stones have a sacred character. According to ancient legends, they contain the power of Imana. In the past, they were collected from water sources and placed in a hut where believers brought offerings every day. When a family member died, his or her body was buried near the hut. Today this tradition has fallen into disuse, although some still consider the round stones to be good luck charms. In addition to the god Imana, Rwandans who observe the old religion worship Lyangombe, the most powerful of the ancestor spirits. To communicate with him, one must go through an initiation ceremony with incantations and chants. This rite is called kubandwa and literally means "being possessed by the spirit of Lyangombe. Even today, a large number of Rwandans are initiated.
Marriage, a sacred institution
In the land of a thousand hills, marriage is an obligatory step. In the countryside, tradition demands that the family of the future husband pay a dowry. This is usually a cow, ostensibly decorated and offered to the girl's father during a highly ritualized ceremony that takes the form of a role play. The suitor, adorned with jewels, walks with a princely gait towards his in-laws with his arms full of gifts. In the Rwandan tradition, the dowry is not used to buy the bride but to ease the grief of her family following the departure of their child. The traditional wedding is not sober. The decorations are overloaded, kitschy as possible, and troops of musicians and dancers set the mood until the early morning. Contrary to our western weddings, no food is served during a traditional Rwandan ceremony.
The food taboo
One of the things that might strike you when you come to the Land of a Thousand Hills is the amazing relationship Rwandans have with food. Until the early 2000s, it was almost unthinkable to see a Rwandan eating in public. Traditionally, eating was considered a humiliating act that had to remain hidden. Although attitudes are changing, the issue of eating is rarely discussed in public. In the countryside, a mother will often prefer to announce that she has "something to show" rather than say that the meal is ready. In the big cities, however, it is no longer uncommon to invite friends to dinner or to go to a restaurant. Under the influence of Westerners, fast food restaurants have even established themselves in Kigali and young dynamic executives dare to take a sandwich to go.
