Ties and lace
The Croata brand, market leader in ties, has opened several boutiques in Zagreb and Museum Concept Shops in Osijek, Rijeka, Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik.
The tradition of lacemaking also goes back a long way. On the island of Pag, the Lace Museum recounts the Croatian origins of openwork lace. Created by needle, by interlacing various fibers, in agave thread (on the island of Hvar) or by spindle (at Lepoglava in Hrvatsko Zagorje), the three creations are inscribed by Unesco on the representative list of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity. By selling their work, Croatian lacemakers preserve this know-how. Clothing and accessories by contemporary fashion designers can be found in Zagreb, at Croatian Design Superstore (Take me Home), Etno Butik Mara, Mladen Grubić Art Jewellery or Ana Žarković's e-boutique (Nit).
Craftsmanship can be bought locally!
In the tourist markets of the big cities, beware of counterfeits. Particularly true for lace, the advice also applies to silk embroidery from Konavle, crystal crockery from Samobor, ceramic doves from Vučedol. Head for the island of Brač, where the famous white stone quarries are still being exploited, perfect for jewelry and everyday objects. When you get off the ferry, you can't miss the stalls of the many merchants set up on the port of Supetar/Brač but also in Pučišća, home to a famous stonemasons' workshop, and even at the nearby Split market.
The Dalmatian capital's other speciality is traditional gold and silver filigree jewelry, which continues to be produced in the Filigran Split boutique-workshop (Bosanka Street). In Dubrovnik, at Clara Stones (Nalješkovićeva street) or Dubrovnik Treasures (Celestina Medivića street), red coral and precious stones are still worked.
Museums are also full of surprises. In Zadar, for example, the Museum of Ancient Glass is a delight. The visit includes a demonstration of glassblowing and, in the store, authentic everyday objects made in the antique manner. In Zagreb, the Museum of Decorative Arts also sells admirable replicas (tableware, jewelry, flasks, etc.), while the Ethnographic Museum offers wooden toys made in the traditional crafts of Hrvatsko Zagorje. At the Museum of Naive Art, you'll find charming, small-format reproductions; at the Museum of Contemporary Art, design objects (stationery, graphic arts); and at the Museum of Broken Hearts, more offbeat, arty gifts.
But to find a real Penkala fountain pen, you need time and luck. The name comes from its inventor, Slavoljub Eduard Penkala, a Slovak-born engineer who became a Croatian citizen. It was he who, in Zagreb in 1907, created the first mechanical pen with an integrated reservoir. Perhaps on Sunday mornings at the brocante market (Place Britanski)... The Dolac market is busy every day. There's always room for small craftsmen who make colorful bouquets of dried flowers, decorative rock compositions, rattles, clappers and superb colored eggs at Easter. Nearby, the bookshop Antikvarijat sells old French history books.
If you're more into painting, the galleries of Rovinj, Pula and the landscape artists of Labin in Istria might interest you. But for contemporary art, the place to be is Rijeka, European Capital of Culture 2020. On the city's official website, you can consult the cultural agenda as well as the catalog of the online boutique. It sells bronze jewelry with stones set in the motif of the Little Moor (Morčić), symbol of the Kvarner region.
In Croatia, natural cosmetics and essential oils are of the highest quality. These beauty/wellness products, which rely on the blends of regional apothecaries, can be purchased in pharmacies (ljekarna), Ulola boutiques, Aromatica specialty stores and DM. On the other hand, if you'd like to own a nice little white dog with black spots (Croatian AOC!), we strongly advise you to get in touch with the French Dalmatian Club. Its members will give you all the general information you need about the breed, and help you make the right purchase or adoption decision.
