Once a flamboyant civilization, yesterday hidden from the world's eyes by one of the most repressive dictatorships in history, the country of a thousand pagodas is now opening its doors, thanks to a process of democratization. Long isolated, Myanmar is becoming the fashionable destination in Southeast Asia. Thanks to a people of moving religious fervour and incredible kindness, landscapes of unreal depth and a cultural heritage of unparalleled richness. Myanmar or Burma is undoubtedly one of the last jewels of authenticity on the planet

7:00 p. m. The sun has already disappeared for about ten minutes behind the golden stupa of the Shwedagon, the great pagoda of Yangon. In a few minutes, the faithful will light the hundreds of candles that surround the gold-covered dome. The show, already magical under the soft light of sunset, will become unforgettable. A place of meditation, a strong religious symbol, the Shwedagon Pagoda is also and above all a place to live, a living summary of the strong ties that unite the Burmese people

Anguished Yangon

Renowned in 1989, Rangoon being considered as a too Western appellation, political capital fallen in 2005, Yangon remains the living heart of Burma. Bursting, vibrant, stunning, it is the economic and cultural centre of the region. On the port, traffic is incessant, in the city centre, the streets are full of cars, rickshaws, pedestrians making their way between the stalls of the merchants.

The Bogyoke market will also certainly mark the beginning of the journey. It's a mixture of all kinds. Tourists from all over the world came to feel the atmosphere of the place, mothers shopping this week, facetious kids looking for a playground, monks looking for a new offering bowl...

Of all the cities in Asia, Yangon has the largest number of colonial buildings, past vestiges of the splendour of the British Empire. Converted into an administrative office, these colourful buildings blend with the decor between pagodas and modern buildings. Built in teak wood, the former Burmese residences, whose top floor is open to the four winds, allow us to imagine the slower life enjoyed by the rich owners. Unusual and surprising, the Bagan and Mrauk-U historic sites also represent a specific architectural feature of the country. In Bagan, the temples follow the same model: square base, roof in stūpa, all in small bricks. This system required the overmoulding of a stucco decoration. Unlike these Burmese Buddhist norms, the Mrauk-U site is coarser, but just as magical. Built in sandstone, a sculpted decoration has been directly integrated. This massive architecture, with its underground cavities, is unique in Southeast Asia.

Farmers and craftsmen

The contrast is striking between Yangon's excitement and the serenity of the entire country. The Burmese countryside still seems to live to the rhythm of the past. Rice fields, wheat, corn, millet fields. Fields of cotton, tobacco, sugar cane.... Wherever you look, you become aware of this rural face of Burma. Agrarian techniques are archaic, tools do not exist. But the joy of life can be seen on the faces. The Burmese people are one of the most welcoming people in the world. Emeritus farmers, Burmese are also talented craftsmen. The fame of Bagan lacquers has spread beyond the borders. The making of Mandalay puppets is an art in itself and the patience of silk weavers is confusing

Ethnic and cultural mosaic

Burma's turbulent history makes it a wonderful meeting of diverse cultures. More than 130 ethnic groups compose this puzzle with distinct pieces, yet they have learned to live side by side. So many discoveries, so many exciting encounters for the traveller

Burma has always lived through the constant struggles between these very different peoples. Today, while some rivalries are still raging in some remote parts of the country, the incredible intertwining of these dozens of cultures in a harmonious society is one of the manifestations of the cultural richness of a plural country.

From the successive domination of each of these cultures was born the rich heritage of Burma. New king, new palace, new pagoda, new capital sometimes. Entire cities have emerged from the earth in a few decades under the often megalomaniacal impetus of a new prince. Sagaing, Inwa, Amarapura, Mandalay... So many capitals with majestic remains. Just like the Shwedagon, the Bagan plain alone justifies a trip to these distant lands. With its 13,000 pagodas, several thousand of which are still standing, it transforms into a sweet euphemism the nickname "country of a thousand pagodas" given to the country. As often, the soft sunset light is ideal for soaking up the atmosphere

Monks and monasteries

Burmese Buddhism is a religious belief, but also a principle of life, mixed with popular beliefs. We pray to Buddha, but also to the Nats, those protective spirits whose home is Mount Popa. Monastic life is at the heart of Burmese culture. The country has several hundred thousand monks of all ages and social classes. Entering the monastery is a great honour, and each man must, during his life, follow the sacred teachings twice. A moving show as the procession of monks, collecting their obole every morning in the streets of Burma's towns and villages, before returning to the monastery to have their only meal of the day and then devote themselves to meditation.

The Irrawaddy, a mythical river

While water is a source of life in all countries of the world, in Burma it occupies a predominant place in daily life, and influences even the foundations of its culture. Rising from the Himalayan valleys, the Irrawaddy is one of the longest rivers in Asia. Like the Mekong further east, it is one of those mythical rivers on which a cruise of a few hours or a few days is an unforgettable experience. From fishing villages to landscapes of rare beauty, the descent of its course is made according to the current.

And Myanmar lights up...

And in October (from 12 to 14 this year), the country lights up on the occasion of the Festival of Lights for three days. Monuments, houses and gardens shine brightly to celebrate Buddha's return from the sky, or would you prefer the exoticism and sensuality of elephant dancing in Kyaukse, near Mandalay? October also marks the end of Lent. Marriages can be celebrated again, and moving is possible! November gives rise to a second festival of lights, the day of the full moon. You can't get enough of it! It is also an opportunity for very young girls to get down to work in order to make dresses for monks in one night, with a watch in hand. In Taunggyi, the sky is covered with many balloons celebrating the end of Lent.

Smart info

When? When? The ideal season is from October to about March. To attend the 2019 Festival of Lights, visit Myanmar from 12 to 14 October.

Getting there. Average price of a Paris-Yangon flight: between €1,000 and €1,200. Mandatory stopover.

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