Albania or the best hidden jewel of the Adriatic? Walking through this country today, it is easy to imagine that Europe's best kept secret will soon be revealed to the greatest number. It is logical and inevitable. Good for us. Good for the Albanians. Let's just hope that this transition from confidential tourism to large-scale tourism will not be too brutal. In the meantime, let's dive into the heart of one of this summer's fashionable destinations.

A rich heritage

Located on one of the routes linking the West and the East, the country has, since Antiquity, attracted the covetousness of the various Mediterranean powers. Born and officially recognized as an independent state only in the 20th century, Albania is nevertheless an ancient nation with its own language, culture and more than 2,000 years of history

Although many religious buildings were destroyed during the communist period, Albania still has a wealth of monuments inherited from the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans. Byzantine churches and mosques stand side by side. In the off-season, visiting the largest sites (Butrint, Gjirokastra and Berat) can even give you the feeling of being one of those pioneering travellers of the 19th century

Albania has a rich and varied heritage. First of all, there is Butrint, the ancient city and one of the most beautiful archaeological sites in the Balkans. Located in the heart of the Butrint National Park, it is a real enchantment where the luxuriant nature mixes with the rich Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian vestiges. According to UNESCO, it is "a microcosm of Mediterranean history". The site consists of a peninsula dominated by a wooded hill that rises to 17 m above sea level. From here, you can enjoy a breathtaking view of Lake Butrint and the Vivari Canal, which flows into the Ionian Sea 1 km to the west.

Then it's on to Berat, the Ottoman wonder. Nicknamed "the city of a thousand windows" in reference to the facades of its Ottoman houses stuck together, the historic centre of Berat, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008, is an absolute must for anyone visiting the country. Dominated by three hills and two fortresses, the modern city now stretches for 15 km along the Osum, one of the country's two major rivers where rafting is practiced (along with the Vjosa, which passes through Përmet). Finally, there is Gjirokastra, the fascinating stone town of Ismail Kadare, with its perched citadels, mosques and churches built side by side. The buildings born of the painful recent history are not hidden, but diverted. The bunkers that once sprang up like mushrooms are transformed into a barn or a museum. The housing blocks of Tirana, a city that is rapidly becoming westernized, are adorned with a thousand and one colors. And the youth of the capital are having a great time around Enver Hoxha's former villa

Albania, a land of adventure

Albania is still today a land of adventure. Indeed, it only really opened up to tourism in the 1990s. Due to a lack of economic and political development, it suffers from four main problems: roads in poor condition, poorly developed heritage, random accommodation conditions and a lack of environmental management. In some areas, tourism is now very strong, but remains low-cost, attracting visitors from the Balkans (mainly Kosovo) and Western Europe at group rates. The most popular region, the "Albanian Riviera", has most of these pitfalls: concreting of the coastline, discharge of waste water into the sea, dangerous roads, unattractive hotels, etc. That said, the country retains a real authenticity and some beautiful assets. So come and sweep away your prejudices. After the long isolation that the population has experienced, each visitor is "thanked" for his or her approach. And this people used to forced economic migrations is much more open to the outside world than we generally believe. As you can see, this country, which is barely larger than Brittany, is a real concentrate of wealth. It has a mosaic of peoples and languages, mountains, lakes and two seas, large cities and very remote areas, religions that coexist harmoniously, beautiful Mediterranean scenery. The Albanian landscapes are wonderful. Here, wherever you are, the sea and/or the mountains occupy the horizon. Before the pictures of the beautiful Ionian beaches invade the catalogues, come and taste the pleasure of feeling almost alone on a Mediterranean shore.

Magnificent landscapes

Albania is also a country of mountains (three quarters of the territory), lakes and rivers. Its fauna and flora are very rich. You can still find wolves, bears and eagles. Even serious treks and white water sports are easily possible. The country has preserved natural parks where it is possible to walk without meeting a soul. The coastline (472 km) offers very diverse landscapes: long beaches and wetlands on the Ionian coast (north), small coves and mountains plunging into the sea on the Adriatic coast (south). The climate, finally, is marked by always hot and sunny summers.

A hospitable country and a cheap destination

Conviviality, solidarity, generosity: these are the real pluses of Albania. The Balkan tradition of hospitality towards foreigners has held up well here, at the price, of course, of certain archaisms (machismo, homophobia, a sense of honour pushed to the extreme...). There is still a sincere curiosity towards tourists, provided that they show a minimum of respect for local customs. Finally, the practice of foreign languages is widespread, Italian, Greek and English in particular. Generally speaking, one always manages to make oneself understood.

Finally, as Albania is one of the poorest countries in Europe, holidays are not very expensive, even for the whole family. For a westerner's budget, the local daily life is quite cheap, even if the prices of fuel and accommodation in Tirana and on the Albanian Riviera tend to be in line with European levels. So don't waste any more time, come and put your bags down on the Albanian Riviera!

Useful information

When is the best time to visit? The best periods to visit Albania are late spring (May-June) for the beauty of the landscapes and early autumn (September-October) when the sea is still warm and the temperatures bearable. It is best to avoid the months of July and August, which are generally the hottest. From November to April, the country is cold and rainy, with heavy rainfall in November. In the mountains, snow usually falls from November to March and some secondary roads may be closed for several months

Getting there. There are now regular direct flights to Tirana from Paris-Orly and Brussels. Daily flights with a stopover via Austria, Italy or Slovenia. Tirana airport is also well served from Athens, Istanbul and several cities in Germany and Scandinavia. For direct flights, consider buying your tickets several months before departure.

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