On the south-eastern edge of Europe, the largest and most stable country in the Balkans offers a mild climate and landscapes that are as attractive as they are varied. The Black Sea beaches, the foothills planted with vineyards, the sandstone cliffs and the vast mountain ranges dotted with green valleys and deep gorges offer the contrasting ensemble of a generous and unspoilt nature
Sofia, charming and unknown
You might want to hop on one of the outdated orange trams that run through the city or you might want to take the ultra-modern subway. But it is clear that everything in the historic centre is within pedestrian reach. In front of the Cathedral, you will be able to discover the very moving Basilica of Saint Sophia, which gives its name to the city, one of the jewels of early Christian architecture. A little further on, the Bania Bachi mosque (one of the oldest in Europe) faces the covered market
But the city is in constant transformation and is becoming more and more fashionable year after year. Wine bars, lounge clubs, vegetarian and organic restaurants and small designer shops are multiplying in the centre. So, for a glimpse of traditional Sofia, the Zhenski Pazar (the women's market) is certainly a must do. It is good to taste a banitsa (a simple filo cake with feta, a favourite dish of Bulgarians) in the middle of the food stalls. We can also go into secondhand shops. These are a real institution in the city and are concentrated around the halls
After a few days of city life, a tour of the Vitosha Mountains or an excursion to the Rila Park will seem an obvious option. The first ones, the Sofiotes' favourite recreation, are unmistakable. They dominate the city from the top of their almost 2,300 metres. The Rila Mountains, a little more than a hundred kilometres from the city, offer one of the most beautiful panoramas of all the Balkan mountains, with their seven cascading lakes perched between 2,000 and 2,500 metres. The Rila Monastery, a World Heritage Site, is one of the country's major attractions. It is possible to spend the night there between two excursions on very well marked paths
The sweetness of Varna and the Black Sea
After the capital and its region, the Black Sea coast promises a smooth journey. Make no mistake, Varna has much more to offer than its beaches and sunny summer.
It offers the happy blend of a city with a rich heritage that is still very pleasant to live in despite the impressive developments on its coast. The culture lover will find his account in the museums and the historical and religious heritage. The partygoer will not be disappointed by the plethora of clubs and recreational activities on offer. Just as families will be able to devote themselves to the quiet beaches, the many parks and visits in the area
The old town is pretty well preserved. You can't miss the Maritime Park, which stretches nonchalantly for three kilometres along the coast. This will give you a good idea of the city's delicacies. It houses an aquarium, a zoo, a planetarium and even a curious naval museum.
The free afternoon tours that the municipality has been organizing for the past few years are a good way to discover the rich heritage of the city and its history. You will be introduced to the beautiful Opera House (excellent summer programming), the impressive Roman baths and of course the very golden Assumption Cathedral with its six domes that majestically rises up from the central square. To complete a visit, the Archaeological Museum which houses what everyone calls "Varna's Gold" is a good option. Another option, more fun, is the Retro Museum, which opened last year. Here you will find the objects of daily life under the communist regime
Objective: sea!
For the pedestrian, access to the sea in the city can sometimes seem a challenge as clubs tend to privatise the coast. But it's not difficult to escape. Kranevo, for example, which is much less popular, can be a wise choice. Nearby, don't miss the royal castle of Euxinograd, built on the model of the castle of Saint-Cloud in the 18th century style
If one wants to continue on the beach side, it is impossible not to try Albena, "the most beautiful beach in Bulgaria" promise the guides. Seven kilometres long, 150 metres wide, blond sand, blue sea: a seaside paradise. The Bulgarians who arranged the place very early on made no mistake about it. The large hotel complexes, built in Bauhaus style, stand out from the rest of the coast. They have acquired over time a vintage patina that the visitor will not fail to appreciate. Albena retains a special charm due to its unique location and the large, carefully tended forest bordering its beach. The quality of its waters is obviously a great advantage for the holidaymakers, because the thermalism is here one of the main activities
Those who love a change of scenery will focus their attention on the coast from Balchik. This small fishing port with its unspoilt charm is worth a visit on its own, if only for the excellent grills that can be found in the local restaurants
Plodiv, the oldest city in Europe
The country's second city has many assets and knows how to showcase itself since it was chosen to become European Cultural Capital in 2019. Plovdiv lies at a crossroads between Europe and Asia and has been a strategic point for many conquerors, from the Romans to the Ottomans. This is what makes it a unique and fascinating cultural melting pot. With its 8,000 years of continuous history, it is indeed the oldest city in Europe that is still populated and it also appears in the top 10 of the oldest cities in the world, not far behind Aleppo in Syria
Rich in all its history, with the good fortune of not having been touched by any of the conflicts of the 20th century, Plovdiv is a unique blend of Roman monuments, Ottoman, Byzantine, Balkan Renaissance, Art Nouveau and Communist architecture. The history of the city can be read in its monuments. Trimontium the Roman, the city of the three hills succeeded Philippopolis, the city of Philip II father of Alexander the Great, king of the Thracians in the 4th century BC. His statue now dominates Jumiya Square. Behind it, the beautiful mosque with its recently restored mosaics is reminiscent of the long Ottoman period. Not far away, the magnificent Roman amphitheatre has become the focal point of the city. It's the place for all concerts, from jazz to opera to... metal! With a bit of luck, you will be able to attend ancient Thracian dances. East of the Roman city walls is the basilica of the first Christians, whose beautiful mosaics are now open to the public
It is understandable that the city wants to take care of its cultural heritage. The archaeological museum houses no less than 100,000 items and traces its entire history
There is another culture claimed by the inhabitants of the city. It is that of an oenological tradition as old as its walls. All around Plovdiv, in the foothills of the Rhodope Mountains, are the most prestigious vineyards of the country. Enough to end his trip in style!
Smart info
When? To discover the cities and the coast, September-October is undoubtedly the best season, still hot and dry. July-August, the coast is invaded; spring is a good option, risky because sometimes rainy
Getting there. Count about 2h45 for a direct flight from Paris to Sofia
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