The Nile, through Egypt
Until the 19th century, the Nile was almost the only route linking the different parts of the country. Road travel was minimal, and all goods and people were transported by boat on the river. Safer and faster, river traffic was already very intense during the reign of the pharaohs, who used the river for trade, warfare and to transport the materials needed for their immense constructions. Aswan granite, so beloved of the Egyptian kings for their statues and monuments, was shipped in from the south. In ancient times, these were made from wood or papyrus stems. Winds from the north enabled navigation southwards, and the river's current and the power of the oars carried men and goods northwards to the Delta. Navigation on the sacred river was also the subject of important ceremonies. During the Opet festival, statues of the gods Amun, his wife Mut and their son Khonsu, the Theban triad, were transported by boat from Karnak temple to Luxor temple, accompanied by sumptuous popular celebrations. Pharaoh's mummified body crossed the Nile in his royal bark before resting on the western bank. And Amun-Ra made his daily journey across the sky in his solar bark. Today, river transport is much less important, but it still exists, thanks in part to tourism. With the exception of the ferries used to cross the river, public transport on the Nile no longer really exists, having been replaced by buses, trains and microbuses. But the Nile was also, and above all, the flood, which has now disappeared. It was the flood that gave the river its creative and nourishing character. By depositing precious silt on the surrounding land, it gave life to this extraordinary country. The construction of the Aswan High Dam in the 1960s put an end to this millennia-old cycle, totally transforming navigation on the river. However, the water needs of agriculture force the authorities to release much more water during the summer, so the landscapes always change a little, depending on the level of the river. This is particularly striking in Aswan.
Egyptians mostly sail aboard feluccas, small boats with large trapezoidal sails. Their graceful profile is an inescapable part of the Upper Egyptian landscape. What a pleasure it is to spend a few hours (or a few days) there, enjoying the unrivalled silence of sailing. If you're only in Egypt for a short time, don't hesitate to devote a few hours of your trip to a felucca outing, whether in Cairo, Luxor or Aswan. You'll have a magical time.
Which cruise to choose ?
The variety of cruises on the Nile is vast, with something for every taste, from the most adventurous to the most luxurious. Most cruises take place between Luxor and Aswan, where there are many important archaeological sites, such as the temples of Edfu, Esna and Kom Ombo. These sites are the main stops on most cruises, but it is possible to customize your trip according to the type of boat you choose.
Hotel boats: most of our cruises take place on these large boats. They offer every comfort: individual cabins, private bathrooms and toilets, swimming pool, bars, lounges and restaurant. Entertainment is also often provided during the day and evening. These are the boats offered by most public agencies. However, not all boats are of the same standard, and you'll be able to find something to suit you, even on a limited budget. Cruises often last seven days, during which the boat makes the round trip between Luxor and Aswan, but many agencies also offer a stay in Cairo and a visit to its monuments before the cruise.
Feluccas: sailing is much slower and depends on the wind. But the experience is magnificent! The journey is long and quiet, and you can stop in many places off the beaten track. Many feluccas are very basic, with people sleeping on deck. However, there are some large ones with shower and toilet and a double deck. Pretty little beaches dot the route, and you can stop off in the villages along the Nile. Occasionally, a crew member will suggest a visit to his or her own village, a walk through the fields and palm groves, or an adventure into the desert. A stop at the Daraw camel market, near Kom Ombo, is often an option. It's a real insight into the daily life of the inhabitants of Upper Egypt, and a chance to discover an Egypt that is often forgotten. A three-day cruise between Aswan and Kom Ombo is sufficient, but it is also possible to go as far as Luxor! It's very easy to approach a felucca operator in Aswan and organize the trip on the spot, but there are also small agencies that organize this type of trip in advance.
Dahabeyyas: these are flat-bottomed boats, often with two masts, one forward and one aft. Very popular, they were already being used in the 19th century to transport tourists and celebrities along the Nile. In fact, they were the first cruise ships to ply the river's waters! In those days, it took 55 days to travel from Cairo to Aswan! In 1869, Thomas Cook introduced steamships that could make the trip in just 28 days. The dahabeyyas then became the prerogative of tourists for whom time and money were of the essence. Today, several agencies offer luxury cruises on these magnificent boats, departing from Luxor, Esna or Aswan. Cruises generally last between 5 and 8 days. The boats feature charming wood-clad cabins and offer all the comfort and luxury you'd expect from a ship of this standing. Unfortunately, dahabeyyas sometimes have to be towed by motorboat when the wind is unfavorable.
Of the steamships that plied the Nile in the Belle Époque, all that remains is the Steam Ship Sudan, a magnificent example of the art of travel from the early 20th century. It's surely the most beautiful boat still plying the river. It offers luxury cruises in a particularly romantic setting, transporting you for a few days into a bygone era. Each cabin is named after an illustrious traveler or personality who visited Egypt in his time: Auguste Mariette, Ferdinand de Lesseps, Herodotus and Gustave Flaubert. Only Agatha Christie actually occupied the suite that bears her name, during her 1933 trip with her husband. Here, you can admire the river and its banks from the beautiful wooden deck, relax in the magnificent cabins or enjoy the upscale French restaurant. Sudan cruises run from Luxor to Aswan in 6 days and 5 nights, or in 5 days and 4 nights. They also include visits to the temples of Abydos and Denderah, north of Luxor.
The best-known of all these cruises is, of course, the one featuring the characters from Agatha Christie's novel Death on the Nile. The famous detective Hercule Poirot sees his precious vacation disrupted by the murder of a rich and beautiful heiress aboard a cruise ship. Death on the Nile is considered one of her greatest novels. The Queen of Crime drew her inspiration from several trips to Egypt with her husband Max Mallowan, an archaeologist specializing in the ancient Middle East. Contrary to legend, she did not write the novel in Aswan, but in Aleppo and aboard the Orient Express, which is also the setting for one of her best-known novels. Fans of the great novelist are sure to enjoy following in the footsteps of her characters. The 1978 film adaptation of Death on the Nile is particularly beautiful. Indeed, it's one of the few films to have been shot almost entirely in Egypt, notably at the Old Cataract and on the magnificent steamship Sudan, on which you can still sail.
Continue the journey
To complete a cruise on the Nile, some travellers are tempted by a cruise on Lake Nasser. Created after the inauguration of the Aswan Dam in 1970, Lake Nasser is a huge expanse of fresh water that occupies the entire Nile Valley from Aswan to Sudan. Its crystalline blue waters lick the magnificent orange dunes of the Nubian deserts and the mountains of black and red rocks. The landscapes are breathtaking and the silence and solitude are worthy of the most beautiful desert journeys. Almost uninhabited, we sometimes meet fishermen who come from the North to catch the delicious tilapia in particular. The lake is also a paradise for birds, where you can see pelicans, storks and wagtails. Sometimes the very rare ibis shows the tip of its curved beak. Crocodiles still live here, but are very rarely seen. A fleet of a few hotel boats make the three-day cruise, stopping at the sites of Wadi es-Seboua and Amada where the Nubian temples saved from the waters are grouped together. The temple of Amada is a small wonder, built by three of the greatest pharaohs of the 18th dynasty. The two temples built by Ramses II at Ouadi es-Seboua and Derr (now moved to the site of Ouadi es-Seboua) are extraordinary witnesses of the footprint of the great pharaoh in Nubia, prefiguring the arrival at Abu Simbel. The cruise usually ends with these grandiose temples where Ramses II and Nefertari await the travellers, leaning against the mountain. Other types of cruises, more sporty or more adventurous, but always unforgettable, are also possible. Smaller boats allow canoeing for 6 days from Aswan to Abu Simbel. These more personalized cruises allow you to enjoy the desert scenery, especially thanks to beautiful hikes. Fishing and swimming are also possible. This is surely the best way to enjoy the magnificent sunsets, the calm of the nights on the lake and beautiful starry skies. Some boats do not have cabins and you can sleep on the deck under the stars. Others offer all the comforts of large cruise ships but in a more intimate setting with undeniable charm!
