A weakened environment
The threats to Madagascar's primary forest are multiple and major: traffickers of rare species (ebony, rosewood and rosewood in particular) defy the law with impunity; charcoal burners transform century-old trees into charcoal and trade in it all year round; primary forests are transformed into cornfields for export. When the forest disappears, heavy rains and cyclones have dreadful effects: torrential waters wash away fertile land, laterite appears, soils become arid, no more trees grow.
The whole ecosystem is affected by deforestation. The climate becomes drier and the drought progresses. As for rare animal species, they are hunted down by traffickers despite export bans... To remedy this, members of parliament are mobilizing to legislate in the field of nature protection. Well-known artists have included songs in their repertoire to raise awareness among the population. Public companies are reforesting with the help of NGOs, the United Nations or the World Bank. But there is no real political will to stop the disaster. Since 2009, deforestation has reached an unprecedented level: following the political crisis, no real protection has taken place for years. As a result, while Madagascar was covered with 14% primary forest in 2008, 50% of this area has burned between 2009 and 2022. These figures are simply chilling! In Madagascar, ecology must become a major concern, an economic, cultural and social priority.
Tourism has a real positive impact on the protection of the environment. Protected areas are created where travelers go and many field structures (community associations and other NGOs) are financed in large part by travelers' money. This is obviously not enough in the face of the magnitude of the challenges that await Madagascar in terms of environmental protection, but it is a reality. Do not hesitate to talk about it with your hosts during your trip and favor an ecoresponsible tourism!
The problem of coastal and marine areas
Today, biotopes are still diverse, marine ecosystems complex and productive; but this situation could be endangered by imprudent policies. Corals, for example, are of paramount importance for the natural balance of sea and land: they protect the coasts by breaking swell and waves, promote the installation of port settlements in calm waters, and act as a barrier to pelagic fish, substantially reducing the risk of predation.
Their disappearance would be an irreparable loss for the natural balance of the planet. Therefore, we must be aware of their importance. By showing respect for nature, tourism can influence the choices of governments and the future of the country: the refusal of any damage caused to ecosystems can make any type of entrepreneur and promoter responsible. This is the price to pay if the coasts will not one day look like a gigantic graveyard of ideals, a vast concentration of ugly buildings or a merciless desert.
Respect for marine mammals and their habitats
The threats to the forest are multiple: peasants practice slash-and-burn agriculture; charcoal burners transform century-old trees into charcoal and trade in it all year round; traffickers in rare species defy the law and the police. In addition, intensive industrial exploitation or bush fires deliberately set by herders are harmful. When the forest disappears, heavy rains and cyclones have dreadful effects: torrential waters wash away fertile land, laterite appears, soils become arid, no more trees grow. The important demographic growth only aggravates this precarious situation. It seems delicate to ask a poor population to favour a sustainable project for the environment, when its vital needs command it to manage things in the short term. The whole ecosystem is affected by deforestation. The climate is becoming drier and the drought is progressing. As for rare animal species, they are hunted down by traffickers despite export bans... To remedy this, members of parliament are mobilizing to legislate in the field of nature protection. Well-known artists have included songs in their repertoire to raise awareness among the population. Public companies are reforesting with the help of NGOs, the United Nations or the World Bank. In Madagascar, ecology must become a major concern, an economic, cultural and social priority. Since 2007, the entire rainforest of the Atsinanana region of Madagascar, including 6 national parks: Marojejy, Masoala, Zahamena, Ranomafana, Andringitra and Andohahela, has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO The problem of coastal and marine areas Even today, the biotopes are diversified, the marine ecosystems complex and productive; but this situation could be endangered by imprudent policies. Corals, for example, are of paramount importance for the natural balance of sea and land: they protect coasts by breaking swell and waves, support the establishment of port facilities in calm waters, and act as a barrier to pelagic fish, substantially reducing the risk of predation. Their disappearance would be an irreparable loss for the natural balance of the planet. Therefore, we must be aware of their importance. By showing respect for nature, tourism can influence the choices of governments and the future of the country: the refusal of any damage caused to ecosystems can make any type of entrepreneur and promoter responsible. This is the price to pay if the coasts are not to resemble a gigantic graveyard of ideals, a vast concentration of ugly buildings or a merciless desert Respect for marine mammals and their habitats It is by dint of perseverance, and thanks to the remarkable work of the Cetamada organization for the conservation of marine mammals in the Indian Ocean, that collective awareness has been awakened. Under his leadership, the first World Congress on Humpback Whales took place in 2015. Another major local event, the whale festival takes place every year on Sainte-Marie Island in July, the period of the mammals' migration to warmer waters Thanks to its network of affiliates, Cetamada is able to offer whale watching trips in the four corners of Madagascar in the most total respect of the animal. We strongly invite you to consult the association's website(www.cetamada.org) to find them. |
Of the tourist operators offering cetacean watching trips in Madagascar, about fifteen are affiliated with Cetamada, thus committing themselves to respect the code of good conduct designed by the association, resulting from the inter-ministerial decree of 2000 fixing the rules of observation of marine mammals. This text requires all nautical operators to have an accompanying guide on board. It also regulates the approach zones of the observed animal. If you notice that the distances are not respected, do not hesitate to contact your operator, as it is important to maintain the balance of the ecosystem.
For whales: Safety zone: 800 m all around the animal, the boat must slow down / Approach zone: 300 m, the boat must keep a constant speed / Observation zone: 200 m, or 100 m for mothers and calves, engine in neutral or turned off.
For dolphins: Safety zone: 800 m / Approach zone: 300 m / Observation zone: 100 m, or 50 m for mothers and their babies.
National Parks
Madagascar is recognized worldwide as a nature sanctuary for the originality of its native fauna and flora. The Madagascar National Parks (MNP) manages the natural heritage through protected areas, established since 1927 with the aim of preserving natural ecosystems, protecting the flora and fauna of the territories concerned and contributing to the development of the riparian communities and to the regional and national economy. These areas are listed according to an official classification as follows (and the number of reserves increases every year): integral natural reserve (RNI), national park (PN), special reserve (RS), to which are added the new protected areas (NAP) and the wetlands of international importance known as RAMSAR.
The flora: a tropical paradise
Plants and flowers. Naturalists have listed more than 19,000 plant species, including - a world record - more than a thousand varieties of orchids. There are also hibiscus and bougainvillea, ylang-ylang, flamboyants and jacarandas, frangipani and euphorbia, water lilies and swamp nepenthe, the "carnivorous" flowers. Research institutes and the World Health Organization are doing important work in the field of pharmacopoeia here.
The ravenalas (traveler's trees) are also here with their unequalled majesty, as well as the cheese trees and banyan trees, the breadfruit trees and the flowering laurels, the coconut and satrana palms, the bamboo and sisal..
The green charm acts all along the Big Island! Tropical fruits and spices are omnipresent along the roads, on the markets and in the plantations: litchis, mangoes, vanilla, cinnamon, cocoa, coffee, pepper and cloves..
The baobabs. Madagascar has six varieties of baobabs, each more surprising than the other, while there is only one for the whole of Africa: theAdansonia digitata (also present on Malagasy soil). We understand why the Malagasy poetically nickname it renala or Mother of the forest!
These six endemic species are called Adansonia fony (or Rubrostipa, it grows up to 5 m high, near Morondava),Adansonia grandidieri (much more imposing, it can reach 30 m high, it is the one of the famous Baobab Alley near Morondava),adansonia madagascariensis (in the extreme south or towards Diego, it is also the species present at the seaside in Majunga),Adansonia perrieri(rarer, in the North, in danger of extinction),Adansonia suarezensis (it can reach 25 m, also in danger of extinction) andAdansonia za (between 5 and 30 m high, threatened species). Baobabs are used in various ways: leaves and fruits are used to make oil, the bark provides good rope and facilitates the construction of a house, and the sap is valuable for making paper. As for the fruits, akoussa, they are used in gastronomy, in fruit juices or in arranged rum, as well as in cosmetics.
The ocean flora. All you need is a mask and a snorkel to immerse yourself in dreamy landscapes, all along the lagoons and coral reefs. The seabed is superb.
The coral reef between Itampolo and Morombe would be the second largest in the world after that of Australia.
Thus, the mangroves occupy an area of about 330 000 ha, mainly on the western coast (nearly 97%). They form vast almost impenetrable forests, especially in the west and north.
There are eight different small floral species belonging to six families that are widespread on the East African coast. Large mangroves are found in areas of high rainfall.
Small tour of the regional flora
In the center. In the forest of Ambatolampy, the most widespread trees are conifers. The water of the crater lakes and rivers is fresh during the southern winter. The beautiful crater lake Tritriva (near Antsirabe) is popular with birds and amphibians. Miandrivazo is a good starting point for the descent of the Tsiribihina river by barge (gorges and gorges, saurians, superb vegetation).
In the massifs of Itremo and Ibity, one will admire plants-pebbles (the flowers spring so to speak from the ground) or dwarf baobabs, and in a general way, on the western slope of the Highlands, one will be interested in the xerophilic vegetation which adapts to difficult climates, by a system of accumulation of water.
To the east. The park of Andasibe-Mantadia is a beautiful forest planted with orchids. Among the numerous animals which populate the reserve, one sometimes meets there, at dawn, a rare and famous lemur, the Indri indri. The Pangalanes canal (from Toamasina to Manakara) is an aquatic and tropical universe. Bordered by ravenalas and an often very dense forest, it shelters birds, lemurs, lizards, insects and, of course, fish.
In the west. Near Mahajanga, the reserve of Ankarafantsika shelters what remains of the great forests of the West; they are populated with lemurs. In the surroundings of Morondava, one will admire the baobab forests, the Dalbergia (rosewood) or the Commiphora. Offshore, the coral islands allow the discovery, in complete safety, of an exceptional marine universe in superb lagoons.
In the south. The xerophilous and thorny vegetation abounds, it is the bush. In Miary (near Toliara) opens the magic universe of the banyan trees, whose immense roots are lost in the branches. Near Taolagnaro, one can see the local curiosity, the nepenthe (also found near Sambava), a carnivorous plant and the famous trihedron, a palm tree with three branches, unique in the world!
In the north. The Lokobe reserve in Nosy Be is to be visited for its superb vegetation. Near Diego, the Amber Mountain and the national park of the same name allow new encounters with lemurs and their vegetal world. Moreover, one will discover a volcanic relief, magnificent orchids, numerous epiphytes plants and waterfalls... The bay of Antongil, in the north-east, is bordered by the densest tropical jungle of Madagascar. Between Vohémar and Maroantsetra, we will visit the plantations of clove, vanilla, cinnamon, basil, niaouli, etc.
An exceptional fauna
In the northwest of the island, 150 million year old dinosaur bones have been discovered... They date back to the time when Madagascar broke away from the African continent. Since this period, species that are now extinct everywhere else on the planet have continued to live on the Red Island. Over time, all animal species have suffered from the degradation of their natural environment. But many species guarantee you a colorful stay.
Lemurs. Unquestionably, the most famous of all the animals of Mada. This fascinating group of primates is called babakoto ("little grandfathers"), perhaps because they represent the closest descendants of our distant ancestors. If you observe them carefully, you will notice that their relational behaviors, their dances, their expressions and gestures are full of humanity!
It is in Madagascar that we find the most diverse varieties of this mammal which has disappeared everywhere else, with a few rare exceptions (Brazil and the Democratic Republic of Congo). There are about 105 species or subspecies of lemurs on the Big Island, all endemic, of which 15 are already extinct, 24 considered critically endangered, 49 endangered and 20 vulnerable: the lemur is thus the most threatened vertebrate in the world today!
Most lemurs live in the original forests, but others prefer coconut trees. Their diet is rather varied: the small species (nocturnal) are satisfied with insects, leaves, bamboo, while the large species (diurnal) consume plants, especially leaves. The female, whose reproductive cycle is seasonal, dominates the groups, and it seems that we should even speak of matriarchy about the varis lemurs.
However, our knowledge is uncertain, and much remains to be learned about these strange relatives. Among the most common species, or at least the ones you are most likely to meet: the Lemur catta (also called maki), and its "star looks" do not deceive anyone: it is the most popular of the whole group! This diurnal species is easily recognized by its white tail ringed with black or gray, or by its orange eyes ringed with black. It generally lives in a group of about thirty individuals and the female dominates the whole: males are even allowed only once a year in the tribe!
The Lemur macaco, which is mostly found in Nosy Be, is a diurnal species which is distinguished by the red fur of the females, while it is black for the males.
The Indri indri, the largest of the lemurs, attracts the crowds in the reserve of the park of Mantadia-Andasibe. It lives in groups of five individuals maximum in general. Its beautiful white fur has red reflections on the belly.
The Sifaka (in Malagasy) is very popular. It lives in the open in small groups (usually five individuals) and eats the leaves of tamarind, kapok or mango trees.
The Microcebusmurinus, whose gray or red fur does not make us forget that it is the smallest of all, is greedy for insects, small vertebrates or fruits. This nocturnal species hibernates in winter once it has built up its fat reserves.
Finally, the Aye-aye(Daubentonia madagascariensis), is another star... Because with its "rabbit teeth, bat ears, boar hair, fox tail and monkey hands", this nocturnal species is an enigma for scientists..
Insectivores and other mammals. There are more than 150 species in Madagascar, almost all endemic.
A mammal that is impossible not to see is of course the zebu, of African origin.
Tenrecs (Tenrecidae) are common; the largest ones are similar to our hedgehogs, even if they do not belong to the same family; some smaller ones, notably the rice tenrecs(Oryzorictes) or the shrews reach their sexual majority at the age of... two or three months and can give birth to up to 32 young at a time. They can be seen in the large forests of the East. Rodents are not very widespread on the Big Island.
Carnivores. The families represented on the Malagasy soil are the Viverridae and the Herpestidae. The fosa(Cryptoprocta ferox) is the most imposing species; it looks like a feline, a kind of small puma. This good climber hunts lemurs. It is very difficult to see it in its natural environment.
The humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae). The humpback whale, also called jubarte, belongs to the Mysticete group (baleen whales). The name Megaptera means "big wings" and refers to its large pectoral fins. It measures between 14 and 17 m long (the largest identified specimen measures 19 m) and weighs about 40 tons.
The humpback whale is identified by its black color on top, whitish on the bottom, but one of its main characteristics remains the tubercles (small protuberances, in fact hair follicles) on its head. The undulations of the tail fin, the scars and the black or white spots are specific to each individual.
The humpback whale surfaces regularly and expels air from its lungs, forming a sort of "geyser" that can reach 3 m high! It is at this moment that she shows her famous "hump", in fact her back that she makes round before sounding (i.e. diving).
Females (recognizable by their lobe of about 15 cm in diameter in the genital region) give birth every two or three years; gestation lasts about eleven months. The calf is about 4 m long and weighs 700 kg at birth. The mother nurses the calf for the first six months, and continues to do so for the next six months, although the calf may already start to look for its own food. After one year, when it is about 9 m long, the calf leaves its mother. It reaches its sexual maturity at the age of five, shortly before reaching its adult size. The humpback whale lives between 50 and 60 years.
The sexual parades (jumps, vertical dressings, hitting the water with the fins, dodging) take place during the austral winter... The joust between males can last several hours, and more than twenty males have been counted around a single female!
Humpback whales hunt krill, herring, capelin and sand eels (small fish) and use an original fishing technique: the "bubble net". Several individuals form a group and surround a school of fish by evacuating air through their vents (the circle can reach 30 m in diameter): the bubbles formed constitute a real natural barrier that prevents the fish from finding each other. All of a sudden, the group rushes on its prey without the latter having had the time to react: thousands of small fish are then ingested in a single mouthful. A beautiful example of animal communitarianism!
The other particularity of humpback whales is their song, which can last several days. The melody, made up of shades of low notes, is extremely complex, and coherent sound sequences are repeated. Since humpback whales only sing during the mating season, it is assumed that it is a means of seduction.
According to statistics, the humpback whale population has increased from 20,000 individuals at the time of the 1966 moratorium to about 35,000 today.
Chameleons. Two thirds of the existing species on our planet inhabit Madagascar, such as Calumma (in the forest) or Furcifer (drier areas of the west)! The smallest chameleon was discovered in 2007 and measures 2 cm without the tail (Brookesia micra), the largest can reach over 60 cm(Chamaeleo oustaleti). Changing color depending on the setting where it watches its prey, the chameleon is everywhere. The most widespread species is the panther chameleon(Furcifer pardalis).
Among the cousins of chameleons, the gecko whose song is surprising, the uropate - which also has camouflage outfits - and the margouillat are only the best known of the countless lizards that make their home in the forests and stones of houses.
Snakes. There are 364 species of reptiles in the country, 332 of which are endemic. 96 species of snakes - all harmless - have been recorded. The most spectacular is the large "do", a boa. Three of the four species of boa are represented. There is also the Menarana (Leioheterodon madagascariensis). Rare species, these reptiles are protected. They can neither be captured nor sold. Note that they are not dangerous for humans.
Saurians. Very protected, because they are endangered, the lizards frequent the large aquatic spaces of the Pangalanes. The most secretive (up to 5 m) have sought refuge in the rivers of the North. In the sacred lake of Anivorano, near Antsiranana, crocodiles are considered as the reincarnations of the inhabitants of a sunken village, and are the object of a real cult. The species present in Madagascar is the Nile crocodile(Crocodylus niloticus). In the past, there was an endemic species, Crocodylus robutus, now extinct.
Turtles. There are 16 species of turtles in Madagascar, including 5 marine ones. The most famous is the radiated or starred turtle(Astrochelys or Geochelone radiata). It is superb with its black carapace and its bright yellow decorations. This magnificent species is in critical danger of extinction today.
Amphibians. There are more than 285 different species of endemic frogs (of which 55 are endangered), divided into five distinct families: the Mantellidae (200 species), the Microhylidae (72 species, including the famous tomato frog: same color and same appearance!), the Hyperoliidae (11 species), the Discoglossidae (only 1 species) and the Ptychadenidae (also only 1 species)
Invertebrates. It is very easy to observe them, mainly in forests with high rainfall. Scorpions, beetles, millipedes, iules, butterflies (more than 3,000 species in the country), leeches (without risk for humans), crabs, cockroaches ... abound!
The forest regions of the East are the favorite land of lepidopterans. It is here that the largest butterfly in the world lives, theArgema mittrei, known as the "Comet of Madagascar", which reaches a wingspan of 30 cm.
Madagascar is home to four hundred species of arachnids, including a variety of mygale. The only really dangerous one is the black widow which is rarely found. The very large nephilis (12 cm wingspan), which clings to trees, windows and electrical wires, are a sensation, but are harmless.
A huge aviary. Madagascar has about 293 species of birds, 108 of which are endemic. Red like the fody in the mating season, green like the parakeets and pigeons, black like the drongo (a kind of passerine), they are everywhere, chirping, whistling in gardens, groves, and forests. Throughout the national parks, you will admire various varieties of grebes, herons, egrets, Madagascar crested ibis, widow sparrows, serpentine eagles, unicolored mesites, green pigeons... And this list is far from being exhaustive!
Some species are well introduced, others are endangered, others are almost extinct, again because of deforestation.
Fish like in an aquarium. The fauna of the mangroves is more spectacular than the flora. We still do not know very well all the endemic species that abound around the island. We know however that the ichthyofauna is particularly rich, around 160 species to date.
A mask and a snorkel are enough to penetrate one of the most beautiful tropical aquatic gardens in the world, in particular by going along the coral reefs in Toliara or the lagoons in Mahavelona (Foulpointe). We will discover along the channels superb fish, clownfish, butterflyfish, angelfish, starfish and seahorses, belonging to various families such as the Selacians, the Carangidae, the Mugilidae..
Mollusks are very present, especially oysters, sea urchins, clams, littorines that cling to mangroves, or various gastropods that are eaten occasionally. As far as crustaceans are concerned, freshwater shrimps, Acetes(Tsivakiny), mangrove crabs(Scylla serrata), or mudflat crabs abound.