Immersion in the Highlands
Stretching over several hundred kilometers around Antananarivo, in the heart of the Imerin'ambaniandro (the Imerina), an essentially agricultural region, the Highlands constitute the historical, cultural and economic heartland of the country. It is this region that you will cross on your way to the south. The landscapes will undoubtedly make you think of Southeast Asia: here the rice terraces are king and magnificent during the rainy season, when the green of the rice fields is almost fluorescent.
It is in the Highlands that the population density is the highest in Madagascar. The history of the inhabitants is linked to that of the Merina monarchy, "those who inhabit the heights" (pronounced "Mernes"), which extended its hold over the whole island by subduing the neighboring peoples. Here, in the 18th century, the powerful kingdom that gave birth to the Malagasy state was formed, when King Andrianampoinimerina declared that he wanted to unite all the peoples of the Big Island. Today, the territory of the Merinas extends east to the cliffs that lead to the coastal regions, west ("Imamo") to the Bongolava, and south ("Vakinankaratra") to the Mania River.
In the 16th century, King Ralambo constituted two main groups within the Merina kingdom: the Andrianas (descendants of the noble castes) and the Hovas (individuals who were neither noble nor slaves), both characterized by their small size and Asian features. At the end of the 19th century, a new group appeared, the Maintienindreny, constituted by freed black slaves. Then the French also established the title of "Hovavao" or "new Hova" to characterize all the newly freed slaves of the surrounding regions (even the Mozambicans).
But the Highlands are not only about the Merinas and the Malagasy capital: if the Merinas still hold the reins of the economy, i.e. the land and the means of production, they are not the only people of the Highlands: indeed, they cohabit with the Betsileos (of which Fianarantsoa is the capital), the Tanalas, the Baras, the Sihanakas, the Vezos of the south, the Betsimsarakas of the east or the Sakalavas of the western arid lands.
The Highlands remain the land of the ancestors and the traditional ceremonies that take place there, as well as the secular life of the peasants and the charm of an architecture where ochre dominates, are as many opportunities for the most unlikely discoveries. You must not be sparing with your time, nor with your smiles. Behind the veil of modernity which seems to cover the capital, extends one of the most touching regions of the Big Island.
A road lined with national parks
Ranomafana National Park has rare plant and animal species, whether chameleons, orchids or lemurs, in a humid and evergreen forest. During our visit, we came across a solitary lemur, ask your guides for its story... This park can be visited by day or night. The thermal baths which adjoin the park can be a good alternative after a day of walking through the forest.
Towards the south, the National Park of Andringitra has superb landscapes kneaded with granite, where you will cross many villages and small pedestrian paths. The viewpoints that line the region are superb! The Pic Bobby, the highest point of the Big Island with its 2 658 meters, is located in this park, the opportunity for a superb hike with beautiful mountain landscapes.
The National Park of Isalo, the most visited of the country, extends west of Ranohira, in the region of Ihorombe. One could easily spend two or three days there to immerse oneself in this exceptional nature. Here, they are only chains of canyons, sandstone peaks varying from red to pink, caves, granite masses sculpted by the winds and the waters. Further on, there are plateaus dug by craters, deserts of stone and silence, steep escarpments...
Finally, don't miss the Anja reserve, very close to Ambalavao: this reserve entirely self-managed by the local communities is an example of successful conservation (it is not a national park). You will see maki catta lemurs in large numbers. They are not domesticated but are not shy. Excellent moment of animal encounter in perspective.
Side step - on board the only railway in Madagascar
The train ride from Fianarantsoa (400 km south of the capital) to Manakara is a slow journey into the heart of Malagasy reality, an immersion into an aspect of the life of the deep country. The hours pass very quickly, so much there is to feel, to see, to hear, and to meet. And this train is actually "relatively" comfortable. You can walk, stretch your legs, read, stroll during the stops. The track is often quite steep from the Highlands (Fianarantsoa is at an altitude of more than 1,200 m) to the coast. Some 200 passengers and 300 tons of goods descend the slopes at the slow rhythm of the old engine.
First, the cars cross beautiful rice terraces dotted with graceful Betsileo houses, then they cross the large tea fields of Sahambavy and vineyards. Then, once crossed the Sahambavy river, the forest spaces punctuated with hibiscus, jasmine, flamboyants and mimosas begin.
About forty kilometers from Fianarantsoa, once the locality of Ranomena is passed, the railroad which now borders a long cliff descends a very steep slope punctuated by bridges crossing rivers, running along rapids, before crossing the impressive Mandriampotsy falls.
From then on, the Indian Ocean becomes perceptible on the horizon beyond the forest tops punctuated with majestic ravenalas. And the villages follow one another: Madiorano, the coffee growing center of Tolongoina, Manampatrana. Each stop sees an intense exchange between travelers and inhabitants of the surrounding villages: fruits, drinks, cigarettes, precious stones are negotiated in the corridors, on the platforms, in the undergrowth, until the signal of the departure is given.
The landscape along the bed of the Faraony River and the many relationships between passengers and villagers make the time pass quickly. Further on, the train crosses Sahasinaka and enters the coastal regions whose vegetation cover is largely degraded, the large forest giving way to a mixed vegetation where ravenala dominates.
At Ambila, the marshes mark the beginning of the historical Antaimoro regions, and then the train continues to the port of Manakara and the shores of the Indian Ocean.
In June 2022, rail workers went on strike, following numerous unpaid wages. In December 2022, hope seemed to be given for a future reopening: let's keep our fingers crossed for the Malagasy above all, but also for the travelers, so that the train starts again very soon..
In the heart of the Wild West
Here is a journey reserved for real adventurers. We take the road from Fianar to Ikalamavony, which crosses beautiful mountainous landscapes (about 90 km of track in average condition). On the way, we pass by Soatanana, whose name is now famous since the superb photographs of Pierrot Men: on Sundays, we can attend the ceremonies of the Fifoazana (the members wear large white tunics); we eat in their company, and we make wash the feet.
Further on, Fanjakana delivers grandiose views on the west of the Haute Matsiatra. From there, an alley of vatolahy (literally: "man-stone", in fact raised stones that evoke the dead who do not have a family tomb), erected by King Andriamanalina, goes to Mazoharivo, where one discovers magnificent examples of these raised stones. Some ruins of the vala'n omby (royal zebu enclosure) of an ancestral king, in and around the village.
By continuing (fork on the left), one plunges towards Solila, a village at the end of the world. Market every Wednesday (so truck from Fianar possible). Landscape of a powerful beauty, in the heart of the Malagasy Far West. It seems that you can see crocodiles on the Matsiatra river which flows next to it, early in the morning. There is a small hotel in the village, not for the grumpy. A Father lives in the corner, he will be delighted to see you and to converse.
Finally, we finish by Ikalamavony, where we can admire beautiful tombs and an extraordinary landscape. It is the home of the dahalo, the zebu thieves. A priori, there is no danger for a passing traveler, but be careful anyway.
For all these destinations, a 4X4 is preferable. However, you can ask at the taxi-brousse parking in Fianar to know the departures, daily or not.
(entdossierthemarub)18523:titre
(entdossierthemarub)18523:texteSome of the most beautiful experiences on the Southern Route
Trek in the heart of the natural sites of Isalo and/or Andringitra.
Photo breaks/meetings along the road: small brick villages, rice terraces, diaphanous lights.
Discovery of this people of woodcarvers in the Zafimaniry country, you will discover their handicraft in the villages all around.
Walk in the middle of the lemurs in the forest of Anja (magnificent point of view on the heights for the most sporting).
A little breath of adventure in the "train of the cliffs" from Fianarantsoa to Manakara, on the east coast.
A great moment of culture with the ceremony of the "turning of the dead" (July-September).
A day trip or more on the Pangalanes canal, around Manakara or Mananjary.
An exquisite lobster-based meal in Manakara.
A three or four day seaside stay to finish the trip, towards Tulear (our preferences, in order: Ankasy, Salary, Anakao).
The RN7 in practice
The Southern Road is the number one destination for tourists in Madagascar. However, some precisions are necessary: it is a road that can be dangerous, crossed from morning to evening by varamba (small carts pushed by children), pedestrians, cyclists, onlookers, zebu carts, chickens, dogs or driving madmen, all this in the most fascinating disorder and chaos. This essential axis for the country is in fact only a departmental road in our country. Also, be careful: ask the driver to drive at a reasonable speed, even if you would like to "rush" to "save" time and "do" more sites (what an incongruity in the land of mora mora, isn't it?), never drive at night (beware, one zebu can hide another). In taxi-brousse, fasten your seatbelts! (Well, the problem is that there are none... anyway, with 25 people in a minibus...). We are not joking: an accident here is always serious, for the good and simple reason that there is almost no structure to welcome and take care of the injured.
These small advices given between friends, to you the road..
Day 1: Tana/Antsirabe. 169 km. 3h. Departure around 8:30 am from Tana, lunch break at the Coin du Foie gras after the visit of the farm of Morarano and/or the park Gasikara at Carat and the workshops of aluminum factory, shortly after the exit of the capital; we spend the night in Antsirabe.
Day 2. Antsirabe/Ambositra. 100 km. 1h30. In the morning, visit of the city, its workshops, its surrounding lakes; lunch, then direction Ambositra; visit of the stores and workshops, night on the spot or direction Antoetra (good accommodation under the sun of Mada) and the zafimaniry country (1h15 of road).
Days 3 and 4 (option). Hike in Zafimaniry country and night in a typical hut in the inhabitant's house: unique! Count 5 or 6 hours of walking per day.
Day 5. Antoetra or Ambositra/Ranomafana. 170 km. 3h30/4h approximately. Departure in the morning to Ranomafana; lunch and visit of the national park in the late afternoon.
Day 6. Ranomafana/Manakara. 170 km. 3h30/4h approximately. Morning visit of the village; lunch then road to Manakara.
Day 7. Manakara. Peaceful trip in a dugout canoe on the Pangalanes Canal (about 8 hours); visit of a coastal village, typical lunch, swimming. Night in Manakara.
Day 8. Manakara/Fianar. Train, about 170 km. 10 hours in this direction (less tourists too). On board an old train, tropical landscapes before going up to the Highlands; many small stops in typical villages: and original snacks to discover everywhere! Stop at the Lac Hôtel, penultimate stage, night on the spot, or else in Fianar.
Day 9: Fianar/Ambalavao. 60 km. 1h30. Visit of the tea plantation in the morning, then visit of the upper town, lunch at the Panda (crocodile or bat!); departure towards Ambalavao, discovery of the paper factory, night on the spot. Or we continue towards the Andringitra for a walk in the park on the 10th day.
Day 10. Ambalavao/Ranohira. 225 km. 3h30/4h approximately. Pleasant walk in the reserve of Anja, picnic, coffee break (or THB) in Ihosy, then arrival in Ranohira. For the amateurs, horseback riding from the Rênes de l'Isalo or via ferrata for the sunset.
Day 11. Park of Isalo. All day trekking in the park (natural swimming pool, waterfall of the nymphs, etc.); another night in Ranohira.
Day 12. Ranohira/Tuléar. 228 km. 3h30. Discovery of the "Far West" village of Ilakaka (possible purchase of sapphires), lunch at the arboretum of Antsokay shortly before Tuléar or at the Corto Maltese in Tuléar, then a sunny stroll in the big city of the south (wild night in option), or else we go directly to the chosen seaside hotel (Ifaty, Ankasy, Salary or Anakao)
Day 13. Tuléar/Ifaty or better Ankasy/Salary. Between 27 and 90 km approximately, on a brand new tarred road or by speedboat. Our preferences: rest in paradise at Ankasy or Salary, without doubt the most beautiful beaches of Madagascar. Or Anakao.
Day 14. Ifaty or Ankasy or Salary or Anakao. In season (end of June to September), whale watching (preferably in the morning).
Day 15. Return to Tulear and flight to Antananarivo, or last night in Tulear for a flight the next morning to Tana.
If you only have 10 days to complete this itinerary, you can omit the trek in the Zafimaniry country (by going directly to Ranomafana from Antsirabe on the day) and/or the expedition on the Pangalanes canal.
If you have more time, don't hesitate to stay an extra day in Ranohira to enjoy the landscape and the surroundings of the park, or add 2 or 3 days in the Andringitra Park to hike or try paragliding and climbing.
