Mozambique promises a journey between land and sea. From its wild interior to its heavenly coast, sewn in white sand lace on the turquoise cloth of the Indian Ocean. The country is travelled on the roads, at sea, but also underwater. A survivor of thirty years of war, Mozambique has laid down its arms and regained its natural and warm smile. Nestled between the mainland and the ocean, its white sandy coast stretches over deserted beaches, tears into archipelagos and curves under the wild dunes. Mozambique is fish grilled on the plates and in the shimmering colours of the markets. The folklore of the chapa, the local bus, which runs along the tracks and the glow of a changing capital, Maputo.
Maputo, the vibrant one
In the south of the country, the capital has 2 million inhabitants and as many smiles. At the bend of its wide and long avenues, admirable buildings, such as the Central Station, emerge from the ground. In Maputo, there are these beautiful facades that you can see right away, but above all there are these small courtyards that you can't see. To appreciate its essence and taste the excitement of its evenings, you have to push the doors open. A breeding ground for artists and creators, hybrid places are settling in. From Wednesday to Sunday evening, it is impossible to miss the nightlife of this city, which is rocked by the music of brass and percussion.
Another must-see: Mafalala. The township. Mafalala's origins and its fight for independence have found a privileged place since the opening of a community museum on June 15, 2019, under the impetus of the Iverca association. Beyond a classic museum, you can sleep there
A protected coast
In northeastern South Africa, Mozambique is vast and unknown. No less than ten regions, seven of which border the Indian Ocean. Mozambique is a diver's paradise. In a country where the land is still little trodden, its seabed is an integral part of its heritage. Underwater, the journey takes on a new dimension. Oxygen bottle on the back, we join this small part of the population to have the chance to visit the entrails of the country. If this natural and fragile treasure is still preserved, it is due to the struggles of associations and enthusiasts. The first territory to be declared a National Park is the Bazaruto Archipelago, where conservation activities began in 1989. First to protect dugongs, sea turtles, and of course their habitats: coral reefs. But also the vegetation of its five islands, Bazaruto, Santa Carolina, Benguerra, Bangué, and Magaruque. In northern Mozambique, Quirimbas National Park was established in 2002. Including twelve of the 32 islands of the Quirimbas archipelago, as well as a large land area. These essential measures to protect underwater and continental fauna and flora make these areas true sanctuaries for diving enthusiasts.
Scuba travel
In this aquarium setting, diving spots follow one another along the coast. The journey begins at the southern tip, in Ponta do Ouro. Colourful corals, lionfish, clownfish, mandarins, Moorish idols or manta rays. But also specialized agencies to swim with dolphins. A little over 660 kilometres north, towards Tofo. A fishing village in the Inhambane region. Here, day and night, the central market makes the heart of the "village" beat faster. Opposite, the beach stretches into a crescent moon, punctuated by hotels that are now part of the scenery. A high spot in the city during the last two weeks of December, Tofo welcomes many blue water aficionados all year round. Tofo is known as THE place where you see the big stuff. Mantas, whale sharks, grey sharks, rays, dolphins, turtles, humpback whales between July and October... Enough to keep your eyes open under the masks. Higher up on the coast, Vilankulo. A five-kilometre window on the Indian Ocean, the coastal city offers one of the most beautiful views in the country. Off Vilankulo, Two Mile Reef concentrates eight spots. No less than 75% of Indian Ocean species have been recorded. At the Corner, we slip under the current. Once the vests are empty of air, you lie on the ground and wait. Grey sharks navigate the canal, turn and then come back. Stingrays join the dance. And from one spot to another, the ascent continues to the north, in the Quirimbas archipelago with Ibo Island Lodge via Nuarro in the Nacala region.
Along the water
Mozambique is explored underwater, but it is also practiced on water. If many of them cannot swim, fishermen embark every day on the essential figure of the coastal landscape, the Dhow. A sailboat of Arab origin that once carried goods between the east coast of Africa and the Arabian Peninsula. Some boats have been diverted from their activity to accommodate passengers on board during a cruise. Once the sails are up, all you have to do is dream and scan the horizon, hoping that dolphins will mingle with the ride. There are those who laze from island to island and there are others for whom the sea is a huge playground. Kayaking, paddle, surfing, bodyboarding, kitesurfing.... are all alternatives. On the kitesurfing side, the sandbanks of Vilankulo create a sensational spot while surfers usually find themselves in Tofo
Gorongosa, a major project
From Beira, it takes three hours to reach this gigantic temple of wildlife. Founded on 23 July 1960, Gorongosa National Park covers three million hectares in the centre of the country. Thousands of tourists are participating here on their first safari. The density of animals is incalculable. In 1976, one year after independence, a civil war broke out. Gorongosa, territory of RENAMO, a party to the Mozambique National Resistance, became the chaotic theatre of a war that swept everything out of its path. Human and wildlife populations. In thirty years, the number of buffaloes has increased from 13,286 to 90, hippos from 3,483 to 160 and elephants from 2,542 to 300.
Today, Montebelo Gorongosa Lodge has restored the Chitengo bungalows to their roundness and straw caps. Warthogs sleep under windows and monkeys invite each other for breakfast. The park collaborates with local communities and trains a new generation of women and scientists. Antelopes gallop through the bush, elephant families make their way, birds sing and hippos bay to crows in front of crocodiles. At the bend, a mane appears under the golden evening light, the Jeep's engine is turned off in front of the peaceful lion. The heart of Mozambique seems to be be beating again.
The Island of Mozambique, the beauty of the ruins
It is essential to reach the north. Capital of the province of Nampula until 1935, Ilha de Moçambique is connected to the continent by a bridge so thin that two cars do not cross paths. Ilha, that's all the charm of old stones. Its cobbled streets, mosques, colourful colonial architecture and fortress. But history is also told underwater, like a forgotten museum. Off Ilha, English, Dutch, Arab, Portuguese ships, loaded with gold, pearls or porcelain, sailed the sea. And the remains are still asleep in the island's blue sheets. Today, if it feels a little abandoned by UNESCO, some private investors are still embarking on crazy renovation projects
Up there, a piece of paradise
Going to Ibo is already a journey. Located off the coast of Quirimbas National Park, the island lives at the rhythm of the tides. The last victim of Hurricane Kenneth at the end of April 2019, the children's island saw its sheet metal huts and the straw roofs of its huts fly away. With the enormous support of the Foundacion do Ibo, the whole island has mobilized to restore the Garden of Eden to its former glory.
Ibo has charm. Ilha's distant cousin from Moçambique is even more secret. Spread over ten square kilometres, only one fifth of the island is inhabited. A responsible tourism destination, it is home to a few guest houses and other lodges that are perfect for a perfect honeymoon. But also Fort São João Baptista, facades covered with shells, lovers of the island, a café-school of sewing or even succulent and copious restaurants among the locals... The rest of the island is none other than nature, rice fields, mangroves and contemplation
Smart info
When? When? You can travel all year round in Mozambique, the choice of season is made mainly according to your wishes. To observe whales, choose a departure between July and October. For safaris, avoid the rainy season. From November to January, parks can be closed. On the coast, if you are looking for peace and quiet, avoid the last two weeks of December. All South Africans are on holiday and it can be very festive
Getting there. Regular flights Paris - Maputo. Expect between 600 and 1,100 € for a round trip. Generally 14 hours (at best) of travel with one stopover.
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