God is everywhere
Gracias a Dios! It's a phrase you'll hear often, everywhere and everywhere. Of course, Peruvian Catholic churches are busier than ours, but beyond that, God is everywhere! God, or " Diosito " as he is affectionately known, is obviously an agent of destiny, to be prayed to and thanked when a goal has been achieved. Religious rituals as a solid foundation throughout human life are firmly established. Baptism, communion, marriage, funerals and memorial masses are all occasions to reunite the family and move forward on the right path. This very special relationship with God is almost paternal. Peruvian society is not divorce-free, and there are many cases of single mothers, but it seems that the rules can be worked around.
It's more a question of honoring God, expressing one's beliefs and fervor. Many buses and combis, for example, are under the protection of various saints, Jesus or God himself, through stickers or stickers that are sure to make skeptical travelers smile, but extra protection is not in vain with these roguish drivers. The same is true of celebrations on religious feasts, which can lead to a very drunken finale: faith doesn't prevent excesses. It's important to bear in mind this feeling towards Catholic culture as it is expressed in Peru, as it is also a key to understanding certain behaviours.
The moral values imposed by this sometimes facade faith seem to be the only thing that cannot be weakened. Two subjects remain highly controversial: abortion (still forbidden even in cases of rape) and homosexuality. Every bill to decriminalize abortion is systematically rejected: a culture of hypocrisy submissive to religious diktats, which moves very little despite the figures (19% of Peruvian women admit to having had an abortion, with discreet practitioners). When it comes to homosexuality, the situation is very similar. It is tolerated in broad daylight, even among certain artistic or political personalities, and some TV stars even play it up, but no bill to advance rights has materialized. The last proposal in this direction dates back to 2015, but the Civil Union ultimately failed to win a majority. The current political and economic crisis isn't helping the subject get back on the agenda. On the surface, all forms of discrimination are rejected, but in reality, outbursts are commonplace.
Lastly, the more radical evangelical current has a strong appeal among poorer or more isolated groups. It is particularly present on the outskirts of cities and in many Amazonian communities. In the January 2020 congressional elections (following the dissolution of Martin Fitzcarra), a political party born of an Adventist church, FREPAP, won 8% of the vote and 15 seats in parliament (out of 73). The wind soon died down, but religious conservatism still has a bright future ahead of it.
Pre-Columbian beliefs and legacies
Another distinctive feature of Peruvian religious rites is that they blend Catholic faith and pagan rituals, or that certain rituals inherited from pre-Columbian times are still alive and well and deeply rooted in everyday life. Before the arrival of Europeans, Peru was home to numerous cultures with associated beliefs and divinities. Graphic representations and archaeological digs have enabled us to learn more and more about these polytheistic religions. Between 1200 and 1400 BC, a religion appeared in Peru based on the cult of a feline: a jaguar in human form, with snakes for eyebrows and hair. This religion, which spread around the Chavín temple in Huántar, northern Peru, was practiced in particular by the Mochicas. For the Chimu, the Moon was recognized as the most important divinity, since unlike the Sun, it shines both day and night. Constellations also played an important role: the Pleiades, for example, was the patron saint of agriculture. The cults of half-man, half-animal gods had by then disappeared. Finally, among the Incas, all beings and forces of nature were venerated, and animal or human sacrifices were made for them on special occasions.
Of this wealth, the ritual that seems most deeply rooted is that of the Pachamama, Mother Earth, for whom ceremonies of thanksgiving are still performed, with coca leaves, prayers in Quechua and small, furnished altars. Pachamama is also invoked at the start of agricultural rituals or village festivals, by pouring a little alcohol on the ground to greet her. To ward off the evil eye, a raw egg is passed over the body, then broken to rid the body of harmful energies. In the Andes, it's the cuy itself that is used to ward off ills. There are also small lucky charms, like amulets, to attract the good wishes of fate. One of these, the Ekeko, is particularly prevalent in the Altiplano, straddling Peru and Bolivia. This mini god of abundance demands to be looked after, and loads his arms with small gifts that reflect what you wish to see happen. If left unattended, he is also capable of taking revenge and attracting the evil eye.
The controversial case of ayahuasca
Ayahuasca is a product derived from the decoction of two Amazonian lianas (ayahuasca and chakruna), banned in France as a narcotic and hallucinogen. In Peru, the plant is part of the nation's cultural heritage. For centuries, it has been used by Amazonian ethnic groups to dominate their enemies, cast spells and gain access to a higher level of consciousness. Shamans are usually hereditary, having usedayahuasca and other medicinal plants extensively themselves. Ayahuasca is a traditional medicine that commanded respect before it became a business. The shaman is not only the one who prepares the beverage, but also the one who will guide you during your journey or trance through his or her chants ( ikaros), and who is supposed to accompany you afterwards to understand the information received. Shamans often belong to the Shipibo or Ashaninka ethnic groups. Nowadays,ayahuasca is even offered on the streets of Cusco, but it's an Amazonian plant that resonates all the better in a propitious environment: that of the jungle. The process should be accompanied by a diet before ingesting the product, which often leads to powerful vomiting during and afterwards. So it's best to be in a center set up for this purpose, and to plan for a few days of calm. Take your time, and don't succumb to the siren calls of consumption.Ayahuasca is all the rage, and virtually all the lodges and guides in Tarapoto, Iquitos and Pucallpa offer it as an extraordinary spiritual experience. Be careful, though: finding a good shaman would be like finding a good shrink here. It's a matter of getting recommendations and going before starting any process. A relationship of trust is essential. The average cost of a stay in these centers is around 75 to 100 US$ per day. A relationship of domination with people in a fragile psychological situation cannot be ruled out. Unfortunately, incidents are regularly reported, ranging from manipulation to rape and even death in the event of improper dosage or excessive fragility. Proceed with great caution.
An Andean equivalent to this plant would undoubtedly be the San Pedro cactus, whose sessions are offered under the full moon. This plant is above all a powerful hallucinogen, but does not represent the same risk of submission to a shaman. In the days when these plants were consumed as part of religious practices, they were reserved for an elite and their consumption was highly regulated.
The rise of the evangelists
Since the 1970s, a strong evangelical movement made up of small independent churches has been gaining ground in Peru. From 1% then, it reached over 15.6% in 2017 at the last official census. Agua Viva, Camino de Vida, Emmanuel, Movimiento Misionero Mundial, Movimiento Evangelístico Misionero are just some of the many churches springing up every day, basing their work on preaching and discipleship of new believers, also forming networks or cells spread across the districts of every department in Peru. Membership of Protestant and Evangelical churches is estimated at around 4 million people. The majority of this population is concentrated in independent evangelical churches, particularly in the Amazon region. It's not uncommon to see small wooden and tin churches built with the money of their followers in even the tiniest villages. The ultra-conservative Asociación Evangélica de la Misión Israelita del Nuevo Pacto Universal (AEMINPU) was represented by its political arm, FREPAP, in the extraordinary legislative elections of January 26, 2020, with 8% of the vote and 15 representatives (the Congress having been dissolved by the President). This short-lived Congress was replaced by the one elected for 5 years in 2021, where FREPAP no longer has any elected representatives, but this has helped to highlight a very real social and political force.
