Practical information : Eating out Chile
Timetable
Whether in winter or summer, restaurant opening times vary, as they do all over the world; restaurants often have fixed hours and do not offer continuous service, so you can have lunch from 12 to 3pm and dinner from 8 to 11pm. In the big cities, you can eat at almost any time of the day or night. There's no need to show up too early, as most restaurants don't open until 9pm. In more remote areas, some restaurants only open at lunchtime. In Patagonia, some establishments close in winter, only to reopen in high season: in some towns, you may be spoilt for choice, with only one address ready to welcome you.
Budget & Tips
It'seasy to cut back when it comes to eating out, as long as you're not too fussy about your diet: pizzas, hot dogs, empanadas or creamy pasta dishes - cheap food often rhymes with high calorie intake! However, you can often get by for less than 10 euros and leave with a full stomach. You should also be aware that most restaurants offer interesting and economical daily menus including starter, main course, dessert and drink. The other option is to visit a supermarket and do your own shopping, so you can prepare your own meals if your accommodation has a kitchen or if you have a van.
Upscale restaurants often offer à la carte dishes, as menus are not commonplace. Venison, wild boar, trout, salmon or crab - local products often demand a price tag, but this is still reasonable compared to the European market: expect to pay around 10 or 15 euros for a dish. In town, all forms of payment are accepted, but in more remote areas, the bill is usually paid in cash. If, however, credit cards are accepted, you'll have to pay a small additional fee. If you've bitten off more than you can chew, you should know that even if the practice is still not widespread, it's not at all frowned upon to ask for a doggy bag. It's a great way to save money for the next day's meal!
What costs extra
In Chile, the IVA is the equivalent of our VAT. It is fixed at 19%. You should also know that even if it is not obligatory, it is customary to leave a tip, the propina (about 10% of the amount of the bill). Unaccustomed to this practice, Europeans, and especially the French, find it very difficult to play the game, although it is a very local reflex that is well anchored in the mentality.
The local way
Of course, there's nothing more local than eating an asado prepared in the open air, in accordance with local know-how, i.e. cooking the meat on a parrilla, a free-standing grill placed over a wood fire. But if you wish to follow the Patagonian tradition, the mutton must be grilled for long hours in a cross, not to say vertically crucified, on a metal support. It's good to be a meat-eater in Chile, although fish and seafood are also very popular, whether ceviche or grilled, and the great global vegetarian wave is beginning to reach Chilean shores. Although the veggie movement is still in its infancy, a few addresses are beginning to appear, notably in the capital. And that's good news, because Chilean fruit and vegetables are tasty!
If you're heading for a tea room or restaurant open all day around 4pm, it's probably because you're about to start your end-of-day snack: the famous ounce, made with cold meats, avocado or cheese, is a Chilean tradition.
To be avoided
If you're keen to sample the local produce, and in particular the seafood, we'd like to make a few recommendations: make sure the produce is of the highest quality and freshest. In Chiloé, some restaurants freeze and refreeze their crabs and other shellfish. You can't always see it, but you'll always feel it a few hours later! Finally, it goes without saying that you should opt for local addresses and not the big chain restaurants and fast-food outlets!
Kids
Children are welcome in most restaurants, with the exception of some high-end restaurants that promise peace and privacy but do not allow children under 18 to eat there. Finally, you should know that many restaurants offer a menu specially designed for them.
Smokers
Smoking is not permitted in restaurants, although some terraces are sometimes equipped for smokers.
Tourist traps
When the crowds thin out and you find yourself off the beaten track, it's rare to come across a tourist trap, but like any self-respecting capital, Santiago is teeming with restaurants that are far too expensive for the quality on offer. Usually, you'll run into touts at the restaurant door or on the sidewalk who will try to get you in, offering lengthy menus and endless dish options: that's where you have to watch out! A menu offering dozens and dozens of dishes is often a sign that the food is not homemade. A short menu is a guarantee of quality and fresh produce. And don't be fooled by the fact that some restaurants are in league with pickpockets : just as you're settling down at your table, the restaurant lets in some smart guys who will discreetly get rid of your bags.