From the airport to the city centre Cuba

José Martí International Airport is Havana's international airport, and the gateway to Cuba. While before the pandemic it was possible to land in Santiago de Cuba, this was no longer possible in 2022: no international flights served the capital of Oriente. As for internal flights, while a few are operated between the country's two largest cities (Havana and Santiago de Cuba), they are expensive and not highly recommended, especially since the May 2018 crash of the Boeing 737 (flight Cubana 972) operated by the national airline Cubana de Aviación, which killed 113 people.

From the airport, there are several means of transport to the city center:

By bus. Two routes lead from the airport to the city center: from avenida de Boyeros (avenida de la Independencia) to the university; from avenida de Boyeros to Ciudad Deportiva, then Calle 26 and Calle 23. A bus service, mainly used by Cubans, provides the link. You pay in national currency, 40 centavos de pesos , and the journey is not direct. Take the connecting bus between terminal 3 and terminal 1 (domestic flights). At terminal 1, ask for the omnibus to Plaza de la Revolución. The journey takes about 1 hour 30 minutes.

By cab , you'll have access to the public cabs, yellow cars marked Cubataxi. Expect to pay €25 to reach the Vedado district or the historic center, Habana Vieja. You can also take private cabs, now legal since Raúl Castro's 2011 laws. However, ask to see the driver's transport license (a sticker, the color of which changes every year, is affixed to the vehicle's windscreen; check that it's there to avoid illegal drivers) and negotiate. You can get as low as €20 a trip (this is the minimum price, and all private drivers match it), whereas with Cubataxi cabs you'll have no choice, as the fare is imposed by the state-owned company.

By rental car: go directly to the counters of the various agencies represented at the airport. It is advisable to book before departure.

Good to know for the return flight: since May1 , 2015, you no longer have to pay the €25 airport tax before your return flight. This tax is now included in the price of the plane ticket.

In the boarding lounge, you can connect to the Internet via wifi with an ETECSA card, or on one of the computers connected on site. If you don't have an ETECSA card with you, you can buy one in the small store on site.

Arrival by train Cuba

It's a (real) revolution in Cuba: modern trains were finally introduced in the summer of 2019! The old trains dated back to the 1830s and were a nightmare for passengers: unsanitary carriages, legendary slowness and frequent breakdowns. But Cuba recently purchased some 250 trains from China, and by 2022 had already received a third of them. While the first of these trains completed the Havana-Santiago de Cuba route in July 2019 in 18 hours and at a good price (the aim is to enable as many citizens as possible to travel from one city to another without taking the overpriced bus), the devaluation of the currency combined with the global pandemic have put quite a damper on Cuban rail dreams. While passenger trains did run during our visit (every 4 days between the capital and Santiago de Cuba), several of the testimonials we heard suggest that train travel is not necessarily a good idea. Trains are slow, unpunctual and the rails are very old. What's more, you have to be there 1 month before the planned date of travel to buy your ticket. Admittedly, the fare is derisory (132 Cuban pesos in 1ʳᵉ class, 95 in second), but there's no guarantee that you'll actually get on board this train...

The rail system should nevertheless improve in the years to come. Cuba has signed a major program with Russia to renovate its railroads (to the tune of a billion dollars) to enable trains to run at maximum speed, which is not possible today due to the dilapidated state of the rails and the entire rail system. However, it will be some time before faster trains are available in Cuba.

Arrival by boat Cuba

Although Havana's marina was being renovated with a view to welcoming cruise ships in the near future, not a single pleasure boat was in sight when we visited. Instead, you can go to the Terminal de ferris (Avenida del Puerto, Habana Vieja Sur) to board a ferry that will take you to the other side of Havana Bay.

Public transport Cuba

Víazul (www.viazul.com) serves the island's major cities: Viñales, Pinar del Río, Havana, Matanzas, Varadero, Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spíritus, Las Tunas, Ciego de Avila, Camagüey, Bayamo, Holguín, Santiago de Cuba and Baracoa. Buses are air-conditioned, so don't forget to bundle up: a sweater will be a welcome addition, as it can get really cold, especially if you take a night bus.

For this edition, to avoid any misunderstanding or confusion, we have decided not to mention schedules or fares. When we visited in summer 2024, some routes (Havana-Varadero, for example) ran every day, others (Havana-Trinidad, for example) only two or three times a week. The best way to avoid unpleasant surprises is still to go to the Viazul office in the city where you are to buy your tickets. Don't forget your passport and your credit card (preferably Visa), the only means of payment accepted at the time of our visit. To save yourself a trip to the Viazul office for nothing, you can visit the company's website: viazul.wetransp.com. You can't buy your ticket online, but the bus timetables are very up-to-date! We also recommend that you go to your local Viazul office to buy your ticket at the latest the day before departure (the same day will suffice in low season)!

On the day of departure, go to the Viazul bus station one hour (sometimes 1.5 hours) before departure. The staff will let you know when the bus is due to arrive, and will give you your ticket and luggage ticket at the same time.

The other national company, Astro, which you're likely to see, is reserved for Cubans and offers much cheaper fares than Viazul. Comfort is slightly inferior to Viazul buses, and you won't normally have access to them... But in exchange for a tip at the ticket office, it's sometimes possible to make a deal! It all depends on the person you meet. A trip on the Astro bus saves you a lot of money, tip included.

Bike, scooters & co Cuba

In popular parlance, the bicycle is called el chivo (the goat). Since the período especial, bicycles have become widespread. You can rent one from Cubans for a day, a week or a month. Bicycles are very precious on the island, so you'll need to use an anti-theft device and park your bike in a supervised bike park, especially in the big cities (charge €1 to €2). A lock alone is not enough, as professional thieves travel around with all the equipment they need to steal two-wheelers.

Electric scooters. In some cities (Trinidad in particular), it is now possible to hire electric scooters (range 120 km). Practical, economical and environmentally friendly!

With a driver Cuba

Official cab. Companies like Cubataxi cover long intercity distances. They can be found near bus terminals and major hotels. Attractive prices from 3 or 4 people upwards. Metered vehicles are always preferable to avoid potential scams, although these are rare. But, meter or not, even with an official cab, it's always possible to cut a deal. So it's essential to negotiate with the driver before getting into the vehicle. Good to know: official cabs have blue license plates. It should also be noted that mipymes (small and medium-sized enterprises, a status that has existed in Cuba since the end of 2021) offer official cab transfer services. Contacts: Rene Taxi (+53 5 3579174) and Alejandra Transporte (+53 63612446).

Private cabs. With the massive development of self-employment following Raúl Castro's reforms in 2011 to revive the Cuban economy, it is now possible for any citizen with a driving license and a vehicle to become a private chauffeur, i.e. a self-employed cab driver! They have to pass a specific (but relatively easy) examination, and are then issued with a license. He is then required to affix a special sticker to his windscreen, which changes color every year, not to be confused with the red sticker (with big numbers) which is linked to the registration certificate. A legal driver's vehicle must therefore have 2 badges; if there's only one, don't go with that driver, because in the event of a police check, the vehicle will be immobilized and you'll be forced to continue your journey by your own means (non-negotiable)...

As far as safety is concerned, a private chauffeur's vehicle is normally safe, as it has been checked beforehand by the relevant authorities. However, take a look inside the car before boarding and check that it's in good condition. Be aware, however, that you'll only find seatbelts in modern cars; with Russian or American cars, they're generally non-existent, so don't be surprised!
The advantage of private cabs is that they're often much cheaper than official ones, and you can negotiate the fare in advance. It's also an opportunity to ride in old cars, which can be superb, like certain American models, but also more dilapidated like many less glamorous Russian vehicles (and sometimes less reassuring too).

Illegal cab. No license, no meter... The police have the right to arrest and punish them. In the event of an inspection, you will be systematically obliged to get out of the vehicle, as the car is automatically immobilized. So it's at your own risk! If you still want to use an underground cab, again negotiate the fare before you get in, otherwise you'll be charged the full price.

However, since it has become possible to become an official self-employed cab driver, clandestine cabs are tending to disappear, as most of them now have an official license. But since they have to pay a license fee to the State, some continue to drive underground to avoid paying taxes to the State (which is why the police are now particularly hard on them) or simply because they don't have enough money to pay for the official exam required to obtain a license.

Bici-taxi. With the terrible economic crisis of the 1990s and the shortage of fuel, Cubans have brought out the bicycles again... Authorized by the State, these two-seater taxi-bicycles - cousins of the Indian rickshaw - criss-cross the streets of Havana and the rest of the country. Prices range from €1 to €5, depending on the trip and distance covered.

Coco-taxi. Resolutely original, these motorized tricycles circulate in the capital and feature a rounded yellow hull reminiscent of a coconut. There are two seats in the back, and the driver works his ass off in front. The fare from the far end of Habana Vieja to Havana's Vedado is between €5 and €7. But here again, you'll have to negotiate, as coco-taxi drivers, who have a rather playful vehicle that is very popular, like to inflate prices when they see a tourist, as demand is high and they figure you won't see a thing. But you've been warned...

By car Cuba

Be very vigilant on the road and drive with extreme caution. Cuba's roads are in fairly good condition (although some are cracked), but the problem is often pedestrians crossing at any time and any place. You have to honk your horn to let them know you're coming and that they shouldn't cross. This is the local custom. Be aware that if you injure a Cuban in a car accident, whether you're at fault or not, you're bound to go to prison. We were unable to find out the exact length of this stay, but from our investigations, it can be very long... To reassure us, we were simply told that tourists were in decent prisons. To avoid the Cuban prison experience, drive very carefully and don't drink mojitos before you get behind the wheel!

Highway code. Cuban traffic regulations require you to stop at every crosswalk, even if no one is crossing. Stop signs in Cuba are represented by a triangle with the vertex at the bottom. It is white, with a red line, and is crossed out with the word "PARE" (stop). Every roadside police checkpoint requires you to drive past it at less than 40 km/h. Beyond that speed you'll be stopped, even if there's no sign and even if it's a dual carriageway. If you receive a fine, be aware that you don't have to pay it to the policeman who stopped you, but to the car rental agency.

Driving at night. Avoid driving at night, because of the holes in the road, the lack of signs, Cubans who drive with their headlights on all the time, pedestrians or cyclists who are impossible to see in the dark, and children playing on the side of the road.

Rental. You'll need your passport, national driving license and credit card. Most rental agencies have offices in the city's major hotels. However, booking online before you leave can significantly reduce rates. For a fee of €1 or €2, you can also arrange for local people to look after your vehicle overnight. Last but not least, make sure you have a spare tire in the trunk and a jack, as flat tires on Cuban roads are a classic occurrence; in such cases, you'll need to show off your mechanical skills, but if you really don't know how, rest assured there will always be a kind soul to help you.

As for infrastructure, road signs are extremely poor. Take a good map with you, but it will often be insufficient once you leave the main roads. The best way to find your way around is to download a GPS map of Cuba and integrate it into your GPS device (maps can be purchased online for a fee). You can also use the Cubamappa.com website, from which you can download detailed road maps of the whole country free of charge (you then just need to put them on your iPad or smartphone), or the Maps.me application, which works as a GPS on your smartphone, even offline, provided you've downloaded the maps of Cuba online beforehand. Don't forget that the Internet is not accessible on the road in Cuba, and that you won't be able to use your smartphone in GPS mode as usual... So plan ahead and download the maps before you hit the road.

And don't hesitate to ask the locals for directions. On the plus side, Cuba does have a number of major roads: a central highway links Pinar del Río, Havana and Santiago de Cuba, covering almost the entire island from west to east.

Hitchhikers. You'll see plenty of hitchhikers on the roadside as you drive along, and you'll be as busy as anyone else. You can pick up Cubans without fear of physical assault, but don't leave valuables in plain sight, let alone money, as we've had reports of thefts. However, it's a good way of getting by and getting to know people. Above all, if you don't have a GPS, it's the best way to find your way on roads where there are no signs...

Tourist traps Cuba

Watch out for scams on the road! Roadside checks are fairly rare. However, some touts have a trick up their sleeves: they'll take an outfit that says "Seguridad" and wave for you to stop. Don't fall for it, their only aim is to take you to a site to visit, where they'll be paid a juicy commission for your visit... So carry on without stopping. Real policemen are easy to spot, as their vehicles are marked "Policía", they wear real police uniforms and, above all, they carry a gun... So keep an eye out for scams!

Another very popular technique from Havana airport: hitchhikers posted on the road to the airport ask you to drop them off just a few kilometers from where they are, and during the journey - the two accomplices being seated in the back seats - while one of them talks to you, the other takes the opportunity to steal your luggage while you're driving. A classic! Once they've stolen your luggage discreetly, they ask you to put it down, and by the time you realize it's been stolen, it's gone.

A tourist couple told us about their misadventure on the spot: hitchhikers discreetly punctured a tire as they were getting into their car. The couple didn't realize it until 5 minutes later... The aim of the hitchhikers was to take them to a friend's garage for repairs and a commission. As a result, the tourists unloaded the hitchhikers and they had to change the tire, all by themselves, to fit a spare.