The Kalahari savannahs, bare landscapes
Covered mainly by the semi-desert of the Kalahari, Botswana reveals endless savannahs, dotted with drought-resistant trees. The most monotonous landscape, on the most infertile sands, is animated by a continuous array of shrubs composed of acacia, terminalia and combretum, among other species. In the beds of the fossil rivers, there are very large acacias erioloba, whose roots draw deeply into the water table. Sometimes there are also vast grassy savannahs, yellow and white, which undulate in the wind. They are punctuated, here and there, by one or more trees, often umbrella acacias or acacias tortilis. The soil is richer in nutrients and the sands shallower. On the large salt flats of the Makgadikgadi, plant life is mostly absent. However, during the rainy season, the film of water that covers them undergoes a short bloom of algae accompanied by its procession of plant and animal micro-organisms. Migratory birds and pink flamingos then take advantage of this to feed on them. But the real plant beauty of the great salt flats is undoubtedly these giant baobabs, rising majestically on rocky islands like Baines Baobabs and Lekhubu Island. In this very arid mineral universe, these very large trees, several times centenarians, are undoubtedly the witnesses of less dry periods. In any case, the landscape they form is simply magnificent!
The mopane forests, real natural cathedrals
If there's one tree that any traveller will quickly learn to recognize, it's the mopane, from its scientific name Colophospermum mopane. This almost evergreen species forms large, monotonous woodlands on the edge of the Okavango delta, in the Linyanti swamps and around Francistown and the Zimbabwean border, and can reach heights of up to 18 m! Its characteristic butterfly-shaped, two-lobed leaves remain green until the end of the dry season, when they begin to turn brown and eventually fall off. They are then quickly replaced by the first leaves, of an almost fluorescent green, which come out as soon as the first rains fall. Able to grow on very poor soils, mopane takes two forms: a very dense shrubby form with fragile branches on the poorest soils, and a magnificent tree form on richer, more watered soils, as at Xakanaka in the Moremi reserve. The tree is widely used and appreciated by wildlife, domestic animals and local residents alike. Light construction wood, leaves appreciated by herbivores, shelter for tree squirrels, the mopane has many uses. During the rainy season, it is home to the famous mopane worms that Botswanans love so much, fried or raw. Even the most adventurous travellers will want to try it!
Chobe and its lush forests
If there's one region where the European traveller can see "real forests", it's in the valley of the Chobe River, in the Kasane region. Here, the vegetation changes, as the rainfall allows deciduous trees to dominate. The tree that dominates the scene is the Zambezi teak(Baikia plurijuga). With its broad leaves, mauve and pink flowers and black-and-white scaled trunk, it is particularly beautiful and provides pleasant shade for camping or picnicking. The Chobe is also home to what is known as miombo woodland, growing on relatively acidic soil. The majority in Zambia, this plant community, largely dominated by the genera Brachystegia, Julbernardia and Isoberlinia, is somewhat reminiscent of mopane woodland, alternating areas of fine trees with shrubs and bushes, depending on the richness of the soil. It is interspersed with purely grassy depressions where no trees or shrubs grow. For the traveller visiting the River Front section of Chobe Park, it is above all the Zambezi teak and tall riverside trees that characterize the landscape.
The Okavango, an incredible diversity of vegetation
The diverse environments and landscapes of the Okavango Delta offer an exceptional variety of vegetation, the distribution of which is controlled by surface and groundwater. In the panhandle, where the delta is formed, huge grassy areas border the Okavango and its main branches. The channels are marked by giant papyrus and reeds, and the islands by riparian forests with large trees tolerant of high soil moisture such as the palm(Phoenix reclinata), the sycamore fig(Ficus sycomorus) and the inevitable sausage tree(Kigelia africana). In the lagoons and small channels where the current is less marked, the sedimentary deposits constitute a very rich environment for a range of aquatic plants. Among the most obvious are Brasenia schreberi with its small oval leaves, Trapa natans and, of course, the water lilies Nymphaea nouchali caerulea, with its pink and white flowers open during the day, and Nymphaea lotus, with its yellow and white flowers open at the end of the day and closed at sunrise. Among the second, more discreet, the "water lettuce" Ottelia ulvifolia is also very present.
Ubiquitous mammal hordes
With over 160 recorded mammal species, Botswana is a safari destination par excellence. When it comes to predators, the choice is wide: there are over 30 different species. Lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo and rhinoceroses - the famous Big Five- are all present, especially in the Okavango Delta. The country is also home to Africa's largest elephant colony, representing almost a third of all pachyderms on the continent. Conversely, the rhino population is under threat, severely affected by illegal poaching. They can only be seen on Chief's Island in Moremi Game Reserve or at the Khama Rhino Sanctuary, near Serowe. The lion, the only cat to growl, and the leopard, known for hiding its prey high up in the trees, are present everywhere in Botswana, both in the delta and in the Kalahari desert. The African buffalo, on the other hand, is found only in the north of the country, being highly dependent on water. In addition to the big predators, you can also spot the spotted hyena, the Cape fox, the African wild dog, the jackal and the ratel, which may well be the most tenacious predator of all. The latter is capable of turning inside out and has undeniable fighting stamina. Don't mess with it! Non-predators include amphibious hippos, steppe zebras, giraffes, warthogs, monkeys, rock damsons, igels, galagos, bush hares and porcupines. Antelopes are the queens of Botswana, with no fewer than 22 species. You'll find everything from the small oréotrague, barely 50 cm long and living in the hills or rocky regions of the country, to the large kudu, triple its size and distinguished by its twisted horns, which lives in the savannah or forest. Other well-known antelope species include the Cape eland, guib, blue wildebeest, oryx, black hippotrague, lechwe cobe, puku, steenbok and, of course, the much-loved impala. To name but a few!
An exceptional avifauna
A birdwatcher's paradise, Botswana is home to almost 600 different species of bird, some of which are endangered. Among the larger species are ostrich, Koribustard, snake, several species of vulture, marabou and numerous eagles. Aquatic and semi-aquatic birds converge on the Okavango delta, the Chobe floodplains and the Makgadikgadi swathes, particularly during the rainy season: cormorants, egrets, flamingos, pelicans, kingfishers, herons, spoonbills, grebes, Senegal jabirus, cranes, ibises, plovers, ducks, geese, etc. Savannahs and woodlands are home to falcons, owls, rollers, jays, parrots, starlings, francolins, hornbills, swallows, pigeons, turtle doves, hoopoes, shrikes, guinea fowl, kites, touracos, gangas, blackbirds, bee-eaters, weavers and more. Thanks to the richness of its habitats, the Okavango Delta beats all records for visitor numbers, especially during the rainy season from November to April, when thousands of migrants arrive. Spectacle guaranteed!
Other families present
From the small endemic gecko of the Tsodilo Hills to the gigantic crocodiles of the northwestern Okavango, including turtles, chameleons and monitor lizards, there are about 170 species of reptiles and amphibians. Among the many varieties of snakes, the python breaks all records for size, with some specimens reaching more than 5 m in length! This ophidian species is the only one protected in Botswana. Often shunned by travellers, insects are also a source of fascination for those who are interested in them. Any traveller will note the presence of termite mounds, fascinating architecture of the savannah. To enter the fascinating world of invertebrates, a good guide will be necessary. As for fish, there are about 80 different species, mostly confined to the permanent waters of the Okavango and Chobe rivers and, on a smaller scale, to the Limpopo River. The most commonly caught fish are bream, carp, barbel, pike and the famous tiger fish, with teeth as sharp as a knife!
