What to eat Guatemala? culinary specialties and gastronomy

Although it's hard to find a kitchen open after 9 p.m., you don't need to make a reservation, except at certain chic addresses in the capital.

The price range is quite wide. In "comedores", a kind of convivial local canteen, a good roast chicken and its accompaniments cost around Q40, while a dish can cost Q90 in a restaurant in the "strict" sense of the term.

While it is customary for a satisfied customer to leave a tip of 10% of the bill for service, many restaurants automatically include "propina " in the bill, sometimes without informing the customer in advance. Taxes, on the other hand, are usually included in the price on the menu.

Although it is not always specified, the dishes are often accompanied by tortillas and "frijoles", the beans that form the basis of the Guatemalan diet. They are eaten so much that they are an essential part of the desayuno típico chapín, the breakfast that can be found on the menu of all comedores and restaurants. It also includes eggs - scrambled or fried - plantains, coffee and sometimes fresh cheese.

The more local the cuisine, the larger the portions: if they are larger than your appetite, you can ask to take the leftovers from your plate to go - as long as you have something to keep them fresh.

Finally, don't be afraid to eat fish outside the coastline: because of the country's small size, you don't have to be by the sea to eat a fresh "caldo de mariscos ". Fruit and vegetable producers are also more or less all around.

It is advisable to avoid raw vegetables - and ice cubes - and to drink only bottled mineral water. Also, although very cheap and culturally enriching, street food is not recommended in Guatemala, where food poisoning is rife. That said, eating food cooked in a market is not a problem... As long as you are sitting at a comedor.

Children are welcome, as the locals themselves go to restaurants with their families - sometimes without worrying too much about the noise made by their children. Dishes are rarely spicy, so even unaccustomed palates will find something to enjoy.

Pretty garlands of lights, lots of plants, background music, a menu in English made up ofavocado toasts, brownies and smoothies... Guatemalans and, above all, expatriates, have managed to appropriate Western codes to seduce the tourist. Nevertheless, once you are aware of it - and you are ready to pay a little more - there is nothing wrong with eating in this type of restaurant. As everywhere, some are very good, others not so good.

Cafés and tearooms abound in Antigua and are becoming increasingly popular in Guatemala City, Quetzaltenango and the villages on the shores of Lake Atitlán. They generally open in the morning and close at around 6pm, and are equally suited to breakfast and snacks. As well as a few travelers with a book, they're mainly populated by digital nomads at work and groups of friends sharing a moment of conviviality.

Bars, meanwhile, are still suffering the consequences of the Covid-19 pandemic. While all health restrictions have been lifted, the sale and consumption of alcohol remains prohibited in public places between 1am and 6am. Establishments in all cities are busier from Thursday onwards.

Westernized and designed for affluent Guatemalans or tourists, the places to take a gourmet break are not cheap. Depending on the location, you can expect to pay between twenty and thirty quetzals for a slice of cake or a pastry. On the other hand, the price of beers - usually sold in bottles - and cocktails is bound to be higher in a hostel bar than outside. On average, for all establishments, you should expect to pay around 20 quetzales for a Gallo, the national beer. Most bars have ahappy hour, which traditionally offers a discount on the second drink purchased.

In theory, the law prohibits the entry and presence of minors in bars, as well as in all places where alcoholic beverages can be consumed. In reality, establishments rarely ask young people for identification to verify their age, and children can accompany their parents without any problem.

Outside of lunch, the inevitable jamaica - a refreshing drink made from hibiscus flowers and with a characteristic red color - is available in alcoholic form, notably in a special edition of Quetzalteca brandy. Also in every bar: Gallo, the most consumed beer in Guatemala.

As in all enclosed areas intended for public use, smoking is prohibited in bars and cafés, except on the terrace.