What to see, what to do Guatemala?

Generally speaking, museums, monuments and religious buildings are open from 8 or 9am to 5 or 6pm... At least, in theory. At the risk of repeating ourselves, Guatemala is relatively unpredictable when it comes to opening hours. What's more, it's not uncommon for a tourist attraction to close earlier than planned due to lack of visitors, especially in low season and in small villages. In any case, it's best to visit when it's daylight, especially in Guatemala City, where Zone 1 - home to the historic center - is not recommended after 6pm.

Guatemala is ideal for travelers who like to take it easy and plan their days at the last minute: no advance planning is necessary. Tours can often be booked up to the day before at youth hostels, hotels or tour agencies, even for popular places such as Tikal and the natural pools of Semuc Champey. On the other hand, in places that are not very touristy, such as Quetzaltenango, it is better to plan your excursions a few days in advance, especially when they are out of the ordinary. This is the case for the ascent of the Tajumulco volcano, for which group departures are less frequent than one might think.

While entrance fees for parks, reserves, museums, monuments and religious buildings are fixed and clearly indicated, those for tours and excursions vary according to the season and the number of visitors. This is why, as with shuttle trips, it's best to compare the packages offered by youth hostels, hotels and tour operators.

The influence of the Catholic religion can also be felt in the country's cultural calendar, which is particularly rich in popular festivals throughout the year. Other events, both Mayan and political, are well worth a visit.

In January, pilgrims from all over Central America flock to the basilica of Esquipulas, in the Chiquimula, to venerate the Black Christ, a wooden sculpture delivered in 1595 by the Portuguese craftsman Quirio Cataño.

In February, mobilizations are held throughout Guatemala to celebrate the Virgen de la Candelaria. The procession through the old quarters of the capital is particularly noteworthy.

Between March and April, on the Friday before Palm Sunday, thousands of students march through the streets of Guatemala City's historic center to protest against the government. This is the "Huelga de Dolores" - "Strike of the Sorrows " - a tradition dating back to 1898.

April is marked by Semana Santa, one of the country's most important events. The "alfombras", huge colorful carpets with a variety of motifs and representations, adorn the streets.

In May, a unique aquatic procession is held on Lake Amatitlán in honour of the Niño Jesús de Belén.

In June, the locals celebrate Corpus Christi. The festivities in Patzún, Chimaltenango, are out of this world.

August sees el día de la Virgen de la Asunción, when Guatemala City organizes the Feria de Jocotenango.

In September, the country celebrates its Independence, gained in 1821.

The beginning of November is dear to the hearts of Guatemalans. During el Día de Todos los Santos - All Saints' Day - thousands of locals go to the cemetery to decorate the graves of their loved ones with wreaths of flowers.

December sees two notable events. First, the Quema del Diablo, a form of spiritual cleansing during which locals burn piñatas and paper representing the devil in large bonfires. Secondly, the Fiesta de Santo Tomás, in Chichicastenango, Quiché, is one of the most beautiful Mayan festivals in the country.

Tours organized by youth hostels, hotels and travel agencies necessarily include a guide, unless you choose the "without" option. We don't recommend it, as you may miss interesting anecdotes, especially in places where information signs are scarce. This is the case of the site of Tikal, for which it would be a pity to book a "simple" return trip from Flores.

If you travel by your own means, by bus or by car, it is possible to contract the services of a guide on the spot, as well for an archaeological site as for a reserve. There is no real rule: some offer a price in advance - which can be negotiated - while others operate with a free price. This is also true for museums, monuments and religious buildings.

Also, it is possible to visit cities with a guide, as in Chichicastenango, where the guides wait for the tourists at the exit of the shuttles: prefer those who are approved by the Guatemalan Institute of Tourism - INGUAT - guarantee of quality.

Finally, during excursions with local guides, such as the trek to the volcanoes of Acatenango and El Fuego, it is customary to leave a tip.

As in France, smoking is prohibited in enclosed public spaces and on public transportation. In general, it is not very common to see Guatemalans with a cigarette in their hand.

If you are asked to pay a tax or entrance fee at the end of a tour or excursion, don't ask; it's a scam. This can happen in places with few visitors, such as the Tajumulco volcano. In this case, pretend you don't understand and move on.